Zinc Rich Engine Oil- Strictly Provide What You USE

[Wolverine]

There is a myriad of threads here regarding ZINC RICH engine oils and cam manufacturer requirements. I would like to compile an informative list of these. (If you know of list, please let us know)

Oil Brand Name:

Website:

CAM Manufacturer:

Recommendation:

Website:

If you can take a moment to provide the information requested(in the format requested to save me time), I will compile and follow up for a wiki of manufacturers. If you are just aware of an oil, disregard the CAM manufacturer and let us know the oil you are using. If you have installed a cam, it might behoove you to check the CAM's web site, and share their recommendations with us.

Basically, copy and past the above lines and add it to this thread as shown here:

Oil Brand Name: Brad Penn

Website: http://www.penngrade1.com/

CAM Manufacturer: Isky

Recommendation: Brad Penn

Website: http://www.iskycams.com/supplement-09/Pg11.pdf

For those not familiar with this subject, the general rule is our older pushrod, flat tappet engines require zinc to prevent cam failure. All cam manufacturers require zinc rich oils on break in. Here is a recent blog,

http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/10/18/tech-101-zinc-in-oil-and-its-effects-on-older-engines/

and there are many threads on 7173mustangs as well as on the 351C web site:

http://www.network54.com/Index/102147

 

[Valhallo]

Oil Brand Name: Edelbrock

Website: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/lubricants/

 

[goodnigh]

Valvoline 10W-30 VR-1 Racing Oil

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/10w-30/6

pricey

mike

 

[T-K]

Oil Brand Name: Joe Gibbs

Website: http://joegibbsdriven.com/

CAM Manufacturer: Crower and Crane

Recommendation: Joe Gibbs

Website: http://www.crower.com/prelube-cam-lifter-1-oz.html

http://www.cranecams.com/breakin.php

 

[TheJ]

Oil Brand Name: Z-ROD 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil

Website: http://www.amsoil.com/index.aspx

Thanks to Chuck (c9zx) for the recommendation.

 

[turtle5353]

I use Brad Penn racing oil. 10w-30

 

[JimNiki]

The zinc issue would affect the solid lifters a lot more than hydraulics, wouldn't it?

Here in Au, I find it hard to find oils which meet the old SJ standard...

I generally use a good penrite 10-40.

(mind you, I've driven 2000 miles in 9 years in my cafe queen!)

 

[Totalled]

Flat tappet vs roller. Solid or hydraulic flat tappet lifters need the zinc.

 

[gpierce]

Jim, Valvoline XLD supposedly meets the SJ standard. You can get the VR1 here too, but it's very expensive. This what I use in Oz:

XLD Premium

SAE: 20W-50

API SJ/CF

http://www.valvoline.com.au/files/productpdfs/8.pdf

Greg

 

[marks73]

Rotella 40

 

[JimNiki]

Jim, Valvoline XLD supposedly meets the SJ standard. You can get the VR1 here too, but it's very expensive. This what I use in Oz:

XLD Premium

SAE: 20W-50

API SJ/CF

http://www.valvoline.com.au/files/productpdfs/8.pdf

Greg

Thanks mate ...

I'm due for an oil change soon ...

I'll give it a go ...

 

[MeZapU]

Oil brand name: Comp Cams

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=159&Category_Code=

Camshaft manufacturer: Comp Cams

XE256H HFT cam in my 66-F100's 352ci engine.

Recommendation: Used this additive to break in two sets of lifters on the same cam. First set of lifters were defective due to them bleeding down internally. Second set are fine and are still going strong.

 

[ramair]

Two years ago I broke in a Lunati Voodoo flat tappet cam on a 302 and all was good. The cam was not to aggressive but it was big enough to cause concern. The first thing I did was get more moly paste than the little packet that was included with the cam. I bought a tub of Isky Rev Lube and lubed the cam and bottom of the lifter real good. Then I used Castrol motorcycle oil and added a quart of Lucas zinc addative to the oil. I ran the engine for a half hour around 2500 rpm for 30 minutes and did a couple of throttle whips(rev bursts) at the end of break in. Even with the valve adjusted too tight (my bad) the cam and lifters broke in correctly, had no flat ones or bad wear patterns. About six months after doing this I pulled the cammed 302 (still wasn't happy with the power) and put a 351W in my car. I tore the 302 apart and the cam and lifters had a excellent wear pattern, not one lobe or lifter was bad.