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FMX to AOD swap. Complete report.


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2. As for the shift points, though - that sounds more like it would be a TV cable adjustment to me (I know Lokar's instructions say to hook their cable up according to their specifics, but then it will most likely require some fine tuning to get the shift points just right). Especially, since it seems to shift early through the entire range. It probably all seems compounded with the 3.00:1 rear gears (especially when OD kicks in). I don't believe you're very far off from being perfectly set-up, though.

 

 

Agreed your going to need to adjust the shift points..But I don't think your going to be able to adjust each point by itself like the 4r70w from the controller ..it's the entire curve ..The entire curve may need to be moved..to kick in later(more rpm /mph) vs earlier

 

Exactly what I was thinking. ::thumb::

 

You know, if my AOD hadn't be literally given to me, and after all the research we've been throwing around on this site, I would probably be going with a 4R70W.

Eric

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I have read that the 4r70w are even more parasitic.

 

Toploader is looking good jimbo

 

disregard the other negative stuff i posted the wrong link before sorry.we know the aod is a good choice for street cars. I too believe Mike is very close to a sweet set up it would only be tweaking the shift points to come a little latter

He has all the vices I admire and none of the virtues I despise

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Thanks Mister4x4

That's a lot of good info.

I found a video on how to fine tune shift points and kickdown response with the tv cable.

With higher pressure the AOD will shift at higher rpms and react faster to the kickdown. I guess that will make it feel much livelier and lighter to the touch.

I found out that the AOD delivers but you have to convince it that you're serious about revving it up.

So I guess the fine tuning should do the trick.


Parasitic loss is another factor. I figured it would be the same as a FMX but if the loss is actually 20 hp more then that will make a perceptible difference.

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Mike
"If I were you...... I´d rather be me." 😛
Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

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All,

 

The valve body in the AOD is suspect due to Fords cost cutting in the transmission. According research on the web, the stock valve body is the culprit to sluggish performance. Here is one article from Hot Rod Magazine that describes the issues. Replacing the stock valve body with the performance enhanceed AOD valve body is option to look into!

 

Ford AOD Transmissions - The Bulletproof AOD

 

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/drivetrain/hrdp_9903_ford_aod_transmission/

 

I did replace my valve body with a performance enhanced valve body and I can tell a difference. I got my performance valve body from Broader Performance!

 

http://www.broaderperformance.com/

 

mustang7173

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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All,

 

The valve body in the AOD is suspect due to Fords cost cutting in the transmission. According research on the web, the stock valve body is the culprit to sluggish performance. Here is one article from Hot Rod Magazine that describes the issues. Replacing the stock valve body with the performance enhanceed AOD valve body is option to look into!

 

Ford AOD Transmissions - The Bulletproof AOD

 

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/drivetrain/hrdp_9903_ford_aod_transmission/

 

I did replace my valve body with a performance enhanced valve body and I can tell a difference. I got my performance valve body from Broader Performance!

 

http://www.broaderperformance.com/

 

mustang7173

 

Thanks! Definitely worth looking into.

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Mike
"If I were you...... I´d rather be me." 😛
Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

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That must be why I'm not havi ng any issues. Mine came with a customized valve body from Dan at Silverfox Transmissions.

 

Yeah, yeah. Go ahead, rub it in. :@

;)

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Mike
"If I were you...... I´d rather be me." 😛
Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

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I also installed a reprograming kit (shift kit modded valve body) when I had the tranny built even though it's a 4r70w..Was recommended by Baumann=tranny controller electronics

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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While I went a different route (put a GV on the back of my C6) I have to agree with Mike. The highway is much more enjoyable with the OD gear. Even cruising a neighborhood street at 30 or 35 is just nicer. I run 3.50 gears.

'Mike'

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

 

Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]

 

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  • 5 weeks later...

I have a 1971 with a 351 Cleveland and FMX transmission. I have modified the engine with an Edelbrock manifold, 4 barrel Holley, Mallory Distributer and Jacobs Ignition system. I have also swapped out a 9" 2.79 rear for 3.50 posi. I have been seriously thinking about the AOD swap vs. a T5 manual.

Did you find it a straight forward swap and do you think it will work for my application? What was the total cost for all the parts including the transmission - which I assume you bought through a dealer, rebuilt.

 

Thanks Tom

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Of course, it would work. I think that the parts needed would be the same, because you have an FMX.

The 3.50 rear would be a perfect match.

I bought the trans from another mustanger who had it rebuilt by a friend of his.

As for the costs for the parts, check the links in my first post.

All in all it cost me a little north of 4000$ but I am in Europe. For someone in the US it should be less than half of that.

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Mike
"If I were you...... I´d rather be me." 😛
Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

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Mike I'm curious as the cost of that conversion would have bought a Gear Vendors and given an overdrive in every gear, was there a particular reason for going down the AOD route?

 

Thanks Stephen

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mus72,

 

Once you mentioned Gear Vendors, I had to go price out the FMX part and the cost was $ 2795.00. It is a bit expensive, but considering the approx. $4000 already put in, this might have been a cheaper alternative, depending on what it would cost to ship international.

 

http://www.gearvendors.com/cgi-bin/shop/detail.cgi?id=10721&1.%20MANUFACTURER=FORD&2.%20VEHICLE%20TYPE=CAR&3.%20MODEL=MUSTANG&4.%20YEAR=1973&5.%20TYPE=PERFORMANCE%20STREET&6.%20FUEL%20TYPE=GAS&7.%20WHEEL%20DRIVE=REAR%20WHEEL%20DRIVE&8.%20TRANSMISSION%20TYPE=AUTOMATIC&9.%20TRANSMISSION%20MODEL=3-SPEED%20FMX%2012.75%22%20TAILHOUSING

 

23vdk69.jpg

 

mustang7173 :D

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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Nothing car related is cheap here in Europe. The AOD swap was still the cheapest way to go. The weight of that gear vendors thing would have driven shipping costs through the roof and import is calculated on parts plus shipping.

We're pretty much screwed over here.

I just ordered a rim for a friend's Jeep from summit. Cost of the rim is 89$ shipping a little over 140$! Add import taxes and we're in the 300$+ range. For a rim that was 89 bucks to start with!!

See what I mean?

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Mike
"If I were you...... I´d rather be me." 😛
Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

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Mike,

 

Ouch! I thought that might have been the case.

 

mustang7173

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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Nothing car related is cheap here in Europe. The AOD swap was still the cheapest way to go. The weight of that gear vendors thing would have driven shipping costs through the roof and import is calculated on parts plus shipping.

We're pretty much screwed over here.

I just ordered a rim for a friend's Jeep from summit. Cost of the rim is 89$ shipping a little over 140$! Add import taxes and we're in the 300$+ range. For a rim that was 89 bucks to start with!!

See what I mean?

Mike I used to have numbers to bring parts in via container to Rotterdam maybe something like that might help you, if you want I can give you a contact for the UK a GV would cost about £100 .

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

my 71 6cyl aod swap went well. cant say i noticed a drain on power compared to c4 but you know how unrelated coincidents happen. I changed my master cyl. and didnt adjust the rod right and it felt like i was towing a trailer! brake drag bad. i installed a TCI constant psi valvebody for firmer shifts and to protect trans from melt down. tci says it fixes factory shift flaws. maybe you need higher shift points on all 3 shifts?

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  • 8 months later...

A big hello to all once again...

No, I haven't bought a corolla!

I just thought it'd be appropriate on this post to mention that the old Clydesdale is with the pro's getting an AOD upgrade as we speak!

 

After pulling the fmx out twice at home, I swore I'll never do it again.

Pick it up next week.

 

cheers to all for now.

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Jim

 

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  • 3 months later...

Well next week turned into 2 months!

Anyway, it's at home now with an aod in it.

 

Took it for a nice drive last Sunday as the weather was nice ...cold but no clouds. (It is winter here in Melbourne).

It ran nicely, I love overdrive now. Like Mike's low revs with a 3.0 diff gear ratio, I'm on 2000 revs with a 3.25 @ 65mph.

I too am now itching for a 3.5 ratio ring/pinion. That's be a perfect sweet spot.

 

Anyway, when driving it home, I wasn't happy with it at all. No power, weird gear changes, etc.

I bought a pressure gauge, and calibrated it myself. Runs like a bought one.

I will find tune the lokar fine adjustment to try to get it to hold the gears a little longer though.

I feel I've got the same power, more or less, now that the pressures are adjusted correctly. (Not sure if that's a placebo though, but I'm happy with it)

The B&M shifter finally works in ratchet mode now. Now that I really need it now, one click and I'm in 2-3!

 

Anyway my biggest concern was whether the box will fit with my long tube headers and it just made it (with a little grinding here and there)

catch!

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Jim

 

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JimNiki,

 

Yes, AOD is now in. The 3.50 gears would be a good gear setup. I changed mine to the 3.55 gear due to other Ford's running the 4R75W transmissions. Keep us posted on which gear set you choose.

 

mustang7173

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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If I lived in the U.S. I'd go for a 3.8:1. I have that now and it's a match made in heaven.

Only thing is we drive 130 kph (81mph) on the freeway. That's the speed limit but it's considered minimum speed by everyone. So most of the time we'd go around 150 kph (93mph).

That's when the 3.8:1 is a little steep.

Bottom line: for Europe go with a 3.5 and for the U.S. take a 3.8.

That's officially my advice from experience.

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Mike
"If I were you...... I´d rather be me." 😛
Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

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Mike, I am thinking 3.8 since the max limit in Au is 110 kmh (approx 68 mph)

So basically, quick maths ....mumble, mumble, carry the 2, = 17% higher revs. So instead of 2000, I'll be doing 2340 revs.

Is this too much for long cruises, guys, with your experience? Versus 2150 revs going to 3.5 from 3.25 gears.

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Jim

 

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IIRC, a 3.8 with the overdrive is just about the same as the FMX with a 2.75. You should be right at the sweet spot!

 

I'm running a 3.93 rear end with my wide ratio AOD, and at 70MPH, I'm at about 2,700 RPMS.

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