Steering Coupler

I am rebuilding/replacing my entire suspension and steering systems on my 73 Mach 1. Is this the coupler I should use or is there something "better" out there? Appreciated.

https://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=3A525+01&Category=Suspension&CatKey=EMUSTANG

As long as you don't have a tilt steering wheel, that one is fine. They're different on the column shaft splines for the tilt column.

As long as you have the two forged pieces of the coupler you can get a replacement rag joint at your local parts house for like $5.00 and just bolt your parts onto it. Dorman makes them in my area.

I just did a tilt column with one. Take your old one with you so you can check the bolt spacing and diameter.

David

That one should be fine but you can usually find them at pretty much any parts store and like David said Dorman sells the just the rag joint and you can reuse your coupler and hardware. Your call.

As long as you have the two forged pieces of the coupler you can get a replacement rag joint at your local parts house for like $5.00 and just bolt your parts onto it. Dorman makes them in my area.

I just did a tilt column with one. Take your old one with you so you can check the bolt spacing and diameter.

David

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I am dealing with the rag joint right now. I have the tilt steering and bought the Scott Drake C7OZ-3A525-A. After trying all different tricks, it doesn't fit well. The splines simply don't match. It seems that the diameter is slightly off as well.

In any case, reading this thread I am learning that there is a difference between tilt and no tilt. My rag joint looks in decent shape but since I was replacing all the steering components I thought it will be a good idea to replace the joint as well. Now to my question. You mention about bolting the parts of the current joint to the replacement. That definitely will solve the issue of the splines, but I can't see a way of doing it without cutting the pins. The pins seem to be pressed on one end to the forged coupler. What's the trick here? The pins of the new joint are also shorter than the old and don't seem long enough to engage the steering side coupler.

Edit: thinking about it, since they are pressed, do I have to heat the coupler and then hammer the pins out?

Yes you have to get the pins out of the forged parts so you can install the new ones that should have came with new kit that replace the ones you have to grind off and drive out. I used a Dorman kit 31000 found in all parts stores in the HELP rack.

I don't have any pics of mine after finished but everything seems to be ok and mine was a tilt column 73.

My opinion of the Help brand couplers is that the rubber disk itself is garbage. The disks only have reinforcement in one direction, like conveyor belt. You could get a help brand kit for the pins and use the new rubber disk from your Scott Drake coupler and be in business. The only catch about the repair kit is the nuts that hold it together are bulky and can be in the way of the clamp bolt that holds the coupler on the steering box input shaft.

Are the pins of the Help one as long as the originals?

Are the pins of the Help one as long as the originals?

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Pretty close,

Here is a picture. If you look about a third of the way over from the left you can see the two pins, the ones from the help kit are the ones that are silver in color and threaded on the end.

Also,

I wouldn't use heat. Most of the ones I have seen have the heads of the pins swedged over. If you just grind off the end you can press them out.

The pins are your safety back up if the rubber fails. They hit on the forged piece on the other side, would be way sloppy, but at least you can steer. A parts car I bought had tilt and when I pulled it the rubber was broken so just steering with the pins.

I ordered two different ones and actually liked the Dorman better so I used it. The other was said to urethane base and was too flexible.

The pins are your safety back up if the rubber fails. They hit on the forged piece on the other side, would be way sloppy, but at least you can steer. A parts car I bought had tilt and when I pulled it the rubber was broken so just steering with the pins.

I ordered two different ones and actually liked the Dorman better so I used it. The other was said to urethane base and was too flexible.

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Yes, that's why I say that the Scott Drake's pins are too short. Look at the picture.

I am going to keep my old rag joint that doesn't look that bad, and when I redo the engine this winter or the next I will redo the rag joint as well.

First picture: the Scott Drake coupler.

Second picture: old one.

I am dealing with the rag joint right now. I have the tilt steering and bought the Scott Drake C7OZ-3A525-A. After trying all different tricks, it doesn't fit well. The splines simply don't match. It seems that the diameter is slightly off as well.

Click to expand...

The shaft diameter for power steering is 13/16", the manual steering is 3/4". Both have 36 splines.

I am dealing with the rag joint right now. I have the tilt steering and bought the Scott Drake C7OZ-3A525-A. After trying all different tricks, it doesn't fit well. The splines simply don't match. It seems that the diameter is slightly off as well.

Click to expand...

The shaft diameter for power steering is 13/16", the manual steering is 3/4". Both have 36 splinters.

Click to expand...

Great to know. Thank you!

I am dealing with the rag joint right now. I have the tilt steering and bought the Scott Drake C7OZ-3A525-A. After trying all different tricks, it doesn't fit well. The splines simply don't match. It seems that the diameter is slightly off as well.

Click to expand...

The shaft diameter for power steering is 13/16", the manual steering is 3/4". Both have 36 splines.

Click to expand...

I thought the Power steering had 31 splines at 13/16 and 36 splines and 3/4 with manual?

Just counted the splines on a spare power steering box, 13/16" diameter 36 splines. Don retains Jedi master status