Alignment locks?

So I bought the Global West alignment lock kit for my car, and yesterday I get a phone call from my mechanic saying that he can't install them if I use the "street" alignment specs that Global West provided with the front suspension components. I was under the impression that they can be installed no matter where your lower control arm is in it's slot. Am I wrong in this, is it possible they cannot be installed?:chin:

There are six positions to choose from.

What Camber can they get near zero or minus with them?

EQUAL BOTH SIDES!

Paul

So I bought the Global West alignment lock kit for my car, and yesterday I get a phone call from my mechanic saying that he can't install them if I use the "street" alignment specs that Global West provided with the front suspension components. I was under the impression that they can be installed no matter where your lower control arm is in it's slot. Am I wrong in this, is it possible they cannot be installed?:chin:

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You mean the camber kit ? They can be installed 2 ways in other words with the number facing in or the number facing out maybe he has them reversed what control arms are you using ? Do they have adjustments like the street or track does with lock nuts ?

I have the tubular lower control arms, I just thought that depending on plate position, they would cover any position across the slot? I just don't understand why he can't install them?

I just don't understand why he can't install them?

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That's the reason I do most every thing on all my vehicles myself...

I don't know that you have enough information to get an answer.

Is the problem that your mechanic cannot get to the recommended alignment settings given the parts he was provided by you, or is the problem that he can't physically install the parts?

Also, any advice you get from us is going to be far less accurate and useful than going and talking to your guy and looking at the problem he is having with him. That way, if you need to talk to the people that built and sold the parts you are using you know exactly what is going on and can better articulate the issue(s).

I have the tubular lower control arms, I just thought that depending on plate position, they would cover any position across the slot? I just don't understand why he can't install them?

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And what do you have for for upper arms ? I don't understand ether why he can't install them. If they are the same as the street or track (square blocks that fit in between the 2 tabs) It's a no brainer. Is the issue he can't get the specs with the plates/blocks installed ? or he just doesn't know how they go ? I would think you have the tubular upper arms also ? Need more info to see whats going on. Using stock upper arms and tubular lower arms could cause a issue with not being able to get into spec- but you'd still be able to install them per say.

OK, I got the specs, according to Global West for "Street" specs the camber should be at -.5 degree both sides, The mechanic set mine to -.4 degree both sides, (with original eccentric bolts). They claim that the closest settings would either put it at -.7 degree, or +.2 degree if they installed the locks. I have both upper and lower tubular control arms, Global West LCA struts, bearing spring perches, and the springs that Global West recommended for my suspension. I called Global West and they claim there should not be ANY position that the locks can not be used. Soooo, here's my final question, Has anybody ever actually had their alignment go bad from performance driving? Or have the eccentric bolts "slip"? Due to financial restraints I can not get the car re-aligned any time soon.

I think my research revealed neg 1/4D was ideal 1/2D would be OK.

You can get 6 positions out of your lower lock bolt kit **IF** you

flip the washers over according to instructions.

I run stock eccentrics on all the fords I ever had and never had

one slip however I don't road race the cars!

Paul

Rereading your post U never want + Camber!

Zero to Neg .5D is zone and .25D money

Well my mechanic called me back last night, he explained that this is not uncommon, he has seen several cars that the locks will not line up with ideal alignment. He owns 20+ Mustangs and says he does not run locks in any of them except the 2 he races, and he says these have extreme alignments. He says the -.4 degree was a compromise and he feels good about the alignment. He says if I do any street driving "which I will do" that I don't want to go any more severe with the camber as it will wear the inside of the tires very quickly, but that the -.4 should still help greatly with cornering, and that in his 30+ years driving Mustangs he has never had an eccentric bolt slip. So I guess I will give it a shot and report back when everything is done. Now I just have to wait for exhaust to get done!

Since the global west upper arms you have dont allow any adjustment like the Street or track setup then the issue more than likely could be shock tower related or lower crossmember. Imho I disagree with your mechanic. In my 30 plus years of building repairing cars I've seen quite a few mustangs lose alignment from the lower eccentrics slipping. It's more common than you think especially with upgraded tires, suspension and drive train. What really should be done is a measurement check of the front unibody, towers and crossmember to insure they are in spec. If he can't get the alignment as per globals specs than I'd start looking in the structure.

OK, I got the specs, according to Global West for "Street" specs the camber should be at -.5 degree both sides, The mechanic set mine to -.4 degree both sides, (with original eccentric bolts). They claim that the closest settings would either put it at -.7 degree, or +.2 degree if they installed the locks. I have both upper and lower tubular control arms, Global West LCA struts, bearing spring perches, and the springs that Global West recommended for my suspension. I called Global West and they claim there should not be ANY position that the locks can not be used. Soooo, here's my final question, Has anybody ever actually had their alignment go bad from performance driving? Or have the eccentric bolts "slip"? Due to financial restraints I can not get the car re-aligned any time soon.

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Omie,

Your mechanic should be able to go from the -.7 degree (or possibly more negative camber) to your desired -.5 by adding a pair of equal thickness shims to the upper A-arm. Between cam lock washer position and shims on upper arm, he should be able to dial in just about any camber desired.

I have slipped a cam bolt and flattened the channel on my mustang and have seen others during my time as a mechanic. The ranchero parts car I bough had a recently-rebuilt suspension and one of the cam channels was partially damaged and one stripped cam bolt. Compared to other designs, I've always felt cam bolts where weak. With this design, the fixed washer and channel carry most of the load. With the locks, the load is shared equally by both channels and the rotational/strip mode of failure is eliminated.