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Her 72 Mach 1


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Just looked up the part number of the exhaust tips: D1ZA-5203-AB. Found some interesting info on the 429mustangcougarinfo site.

 

Both tips have that part number. Are they really worth as much as I saw someone asking for them (650)? If so, that is crazy. Are they stainless?

 

 

D1-ZA5203-AB.jpg

Brett

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Curious to know (if you don’t mind) the price of that very nice urethane bumper. Looks like all the parts are mint. Congrats

 

Disclaimer: I'm new to restoring Mustangs, so I had a hard time with coming up with an offer.

 

I've seen some for sale and at the time that I was talking to the seller, the number that popped in my head for one that needed to be restored was 300.  I got excited when I saw a picture of it and mentally compared it to the one we have. I may have overpaid but to me this green one (still original paint) was worth the 500 that I offered. He accepted and we are happy with it as it is in far better shape than the one we have, hopefully our painter agrees.

That was cheap for that bumper

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Curious to know (if you don’t mind) the price of that very nice urethane bumper. Looks like all the parts are mint. Congrats

 

Disclaimer: I'm new to restoring Mustangs, so I had a hard time with coming up with an offer.

 

I've seen some for sale and at the time that I was talking to the seller, the number that popped in my head for one that needed to be restored was 300.  I got excited when I saw a picture of it and mentally compared it to the one we have. I may have overpaid but to me this green one (still original paint) was worth the 500 that I offered. He accepted and we are happy with it as it is in far better shape than the one we have, hopefully our painter agrees.

That was cheap for that bumper

 

Coming from you that means a lot. I could've had a carb and intake for cheap as well (150 and 200 respectively) , but for those parts I had a little more knowledge of their value. I felt that I could not take advantage of the sellers lack of knowledge on the value of the carb and intake, so when I was offered those parts at those prices, I informed him that they were worth far more than those prices. I suspect I was right in that regard, for I imagine an original carb/intake combo for a 72 351HO is worth far more than 350. A little voice in my head afterwords was saying "you coulda made a few bucks, dummy." But I've never lived my life that way and I sleep well at night. The previous couple of sentences almost sound hypocritical when I read them considering I now know I got the bumper cheap. But I honestly thought 500 was on the high side.

Brett

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Removed the hood and hinges today. Moved stuff around the small shop to aid in working on the Mach 1.

 

Spent 3 hours trimming a tree next to the shop. I needed to make room for our camper to get past the shop to the back yard. So when we pull the Mach 1 out it can go right on a trailer. Instead of parking the camper on the street while I play musical trailers to get the Mustang loaded. A powered pole saw can make a pile of branches quick. My back is complaining this evening!

 

 

hoodoff11-10.jpg

Brett

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Still have front and back glass to pull. The back is ready to come out, just have to find a safe place to store the glass.

 

I've never pulled/installed an engine combo with a manual transmission. Then again I could probably count on 2 hands how many engine removal and installations I have done on a car/truck. I have to figure out the z bar and associated clutch linkage. I think there is enough room to leave the bell housing on the back of the block.

 

If time permits I'll put the Mustang on jack stands tomorrow and get under it and pull the drive shaft and the 3 speed trans. That's the plan anyways.

 

Off to research "how to" pull this engine trans. It has been many years since I've done this task.

Brett

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Clutch release lever return spring was attatched to the fuel line in the wheel well. I don't think that is factory!

 

 

returnspring.jpg

 

Nope  :whistling: 

 

Good, you disassemble everything for those sleeping dogs...  ::thumb::  

 

I experienced also some of those 'good to know now before the whole thing kills everything'-pieces... 

 

Great to see you make progress  ::thumb::

 

For storage of the glasses: take some painter fleece, wrap it around with the cosy side to the glass, then some cardboard around, finished. It will not hold up an elephants dance but most other things it will do...

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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You can pull the motor and trans together as a whole unit if you want to. That's how I've done mine numerous times. As long as your cherry picker or hoist will allow you to go high enough. It's easier with a helper but I've done it several times alone.

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Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Back window seal has been carefully cut in preparation for window removal.

 

Any suggestions on "how to" for long term storage (3 years or more) until it gets reinstalled?

 

 

bkwndwseal.jpg

PROTECT the edges

Tempered glass is very strong unless you hit the side / edge

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Thanks for the tips on the glass folks!

 

I laid on the floor of the shop looking under the car last night eyeballin' the engine/trans removal (how I noticed clutch spring) and decided to pull the trans. I have an older 8 ton cherry picker with trolley from HF that I'll use. A key problem that I have is my shop only has an 8 foot ceiling (previous owner built it as a wood shop). My concern is I'll run out of roof before the trans would clear the radiator support. I may still try it rather than wrestle the heavy 3 speed trans under the car. I'll eyeball it some more today. I read several posts last night on the subject and found it has been done either way. Ceiling height is my problem.

 

While eyeballin' last night I saw more evidence of accident damage; drivers side apron upper small bend, drivers fender nut clip holes bent, new sway bar bushings/end links, idler arm bolt heads undercoating removed. Tie rod ends and sleeves look original. It is an 82k mile car. Previously I mentioned the core support on the drivers side had been bent and straightened. The bend followed the diagonal line of forward apron. I downloaded the pdf of dimensions a couple of weeks ago and I'll do some more measuring. I've done a couple lateral and height measurements already, but I'll do some diagonal dimension checks.

Brett

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My ceiling is just under 7’ and I can pull both motor and trans. I would recommend using a carb plate to get as much clearance as you can. Chains take up a lot of headroom. Here’s a couple pics to give you an idea. These pics are just the motor but I have done motor and trans lots of times. 

 

2596-B6-AD-88-AE-4-B19-80-CE-BCC4-D404-DDBE.jpg

 

19-C949-E2-0155-48-AE-B553-3934-A5-D7-E750.jpg

 

5578-ECC8-D043-4-D5-F-94-B0-A1-A0-A7258-EF6.jpg

 

9-C0-B7-E62-4-A3-B-4585-8-DA7-1387-C01-A56-EC.jpg

 

AA81-E87-E-EFF3-4472-89-C4-38-EC6-A709-F19.jpg

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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I did 460 with C6 a few times. Helps to have a second person to help guide the engine. I did it without a load leveler (https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-60659.html). I would think those would make it much easier. Harbor freight also has a 1500# leveler for a lil less $$.

Wisdom, knowledge and intelligence are three very different things.

1971 convertible, H-code, Ram Air

1971 Mach I, M-code, Ram Air

1972 Mexican GT-351

1988 Bronco II

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Thanks Kevin!

 

I made a mistake on my ceiling height. I too am at 7' or just shy of that.

 

I do have a carb plate. I have to get proper hardware (today) as it is just sitting on the intake with the carb studs. I'm thinking grade 8. If I remember correctly they are 5/16-18.

 

I have a load leveling trolley. But never used it. I've only needed just the hoist to put my 396 on my bare subframe(Camaro) a few times for mock up of parts. Is it necessary with a trans? The carb plate has 3 holes.

Brett

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Thanks Kevin!

 

I made a mistake on my ceiling height. I too am at 7' or just shy of that.

 

I do have a carb plate. I have to get proper hardware (today) as it is just sitting on the intake with the carb studs. I'm thinking grade 8. If I remember correctly they are 5/16-24.

 

I have a load leveling trolley. But never used it. I've only needed just the hoist to put my 396 on my bare subframe(Camaro) a few times for mock up of parts. Is it necessary with a trans? The carb plate has 3 holes.

 

 I have used a load leveler in the past when doing the swap myself but they are kind of a pain in the ass and take up alot of head room. If you have an extra hand to help you can easily tip the motor and trans assembly by hand to get it to clear. If i remember right we used the front hole to pick motor and trans together and once its almost out we would grab the tailshaft and pick up to clear rad support.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Z-bar and driveshaft removed. But the drivers side header is being a pain in the %$@! It would probably be less of a pain with the clutch release lever out of the way. I think I'll leave it and let it fall on the floor when the engine/trans is pulled.

 

The jackstands as positioned would be in the way of the engine hoist. I plan to pull eng/trans combo with the Mustang back on the floor.

 

But if I pull the transmission crossmember; how low will the transmission droop when I get the car back on the floor off jackstands? Will I need to support the transmission with a floor jack as I lower the car back to the floor?

 

 

Jstnds11-11-19.jpg

 

gif upload

Brett

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It shouldn’t hurt to let the tranny hang down while you set the car down. That’s what I do with mine and haven’t had any issues yet. My electric hoist is up in the ceiling so as I pull my motor and trans , I have to push the car back. Real pain by myself but doable. When installing it I usually position a jack under the tail shaft to help level out the motor and trans as I stab it in.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Thanks!

 

Didn't make it to the store to pick up bolts for the lift plate today. I work early days the rest of the week, which causes my butt to drag by the time I get home. Motor and trans by Friday is my new goal. Still have fuel line, parking brake cable and brake likes to remove and might as well remove calipers.

Brett

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Brett,

Earlier I told you to put the hook in the front hole of the carb plate. I believe I was wrong. I found a pic of my motor and trans bolted together with the hook in the back hole and it’s almost level. So if you were to put the hook in the center hole that would let the tail shaft tip down slightly and help to get the motor and trans out easier. If you tried using the front hole it would be tilted a lot more and you may struggle to lift the tail shaft up by hand to help guide it over the rad support. This is with a c-4 auto trans so a 4 speed maybe slightly weighted differently. I would try it in center hole, if it don’t lift like you want, set it down and try again.

 

 

84-E98-BD9-2-E05-4794-8017-11692-A32935-D.jpg

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Pulled the transmission seperate this morning. Me and the Mrs. pulled the engine this afternoon. Started at 9 a.m and finished at 6 p.m. I am tired, but it sure felt good to be wrenching at this level again. The bellhousing had a mouse nest. Full of goat head seeds and mouse turds. Hope I don't get the hanta virus.

 

 

3spd.jpg

 

 

engout11-17-19.jpg

 

 

 

engntre11-17-19.jpg

 

 

 

clutchpts11-17-19.jpg

 

 

 

engbay11-17-19.jpg

 

photo host

 

 

engstnd11-17-19.jpg

Brett

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This weeks plan is to remove brake and fuel lines, parking brake cable and brake components (booster, front calipers). Documentation via pictures of clamp/bolt and routing locations will consume much of the time. Front and rear glass is ready for removal, we just have to lift them out (carefully).

 

How do I prevent power steering fluid from squirting out of the gearbox when the car is at the bodyshop? I'm assuming it will be moved around quite a bit.

 

Two solutions I've been thinking; leave hoses but bag the ends, or "my" project car has plugs in the steering gearbox pressure/return fitting holes, I could borrow those when we haul the Mach 1 next month.

Brett

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The partial VIN stamped on engine blocks, transmissions and shock towers is *usually* ---- year | assembly plant | unit number. My 71 Mach as a 4 in the year location on the fender apron. Metuchen was known for mistakes like that, guessing the guy doing the stamping was a bit sloppy.

 

P is Twin Cities plant , IIRC they made full size Fords there.

 

I would simply loop the return line back to the pressure side of the box. You can jam a piece of hose on between the two hoses and clamp it in place. No ill affects by removing the shocks, but don't really see a need to remove them until you do the suspension.

 

 

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