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What did you do to your car today?


droptop73
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The non-tach (warning light gauge) PCB appears to be the same as the clock PCB, according to this illustration:

 

attachment.php?thumbnail=42025

 

I also visually checked the illustration against my clock cluster and verified the same. The diagram is correct in calling out the 'empty' light sockets on the clock cluster - mine has nothing in those locations.

 

BTW - the circuit that fried is the open pin next to the #6 pin on the connector (to the right), which traces all the way across to the bottom eyelet in the middle of the warning gauge indicator side (the one almost directly above the bottom light socket). Those open eyelets have the power & ground for the clock poked through and bolted down. It only touched the metal dash for about 5 or 6 seconds, but that's all it needed. It smoked the plastic, but the run kept its integrity - I ohmed it out all the way across and despite getting cooked, it still seems fine. Not taking any chances, though. Plus, the plastic layers were separating (peeling apart) in the area above the main harness connector.

 

Cool, learn something everyday ::thumb::

I have 3-4 clock dash units in a bin with separated / delaminated PCB's

I just assumed they would be different - now I'll have to fix them

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I've spent 2-3 years searching high and low for these sockets and haven't found them yet. When manufacturing my 3 gauge cluster harnesses or repairing them, I switch out to 2-wire push-in sockets which will stay in the cluster. This changes the bulbs from 194's to 1895s, but they are the same in terms of lumens.

 

If anyone has a source for these sockets, please let me know!

 

Hmmm - bummer. I figured if anybody would know where to find them, you would. ::thumb::

 

OK - so, it looks like I might be glueing 'em back in once I verify the replacement LEDs light up like they're supposed to. Hopefully, I'll come up with something better than that before this coming weekend. :chin:

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Negative on that. I bought those and while they will fit on the main dash cluster, the center gauge system has thicker plastic backing, so you need more space between the locking tabs and the face.

 

I can sell you the push-in two wire sockets that I harvest from 65 underdash harnesses; you just need the LED's that fit 1895 sockets.

 

And Don of OMS: you should convert those dash clusters with clocks to being hardwired (hint hint...nudge nudge...you know what I mean?)

Let me check your shorts!

http://midlifeharness.com

cactus.jpg.92e5d9d8700abc0ed60c8ccb3426248e.jpg

 

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Took advantage of a friend offering up his bead blast cabinet for me to use -

 

So the old original Q code breather assy is getting prepped for paint.

 

I can see from the pics I should have cleaned it good with soap and water FIRST, but I didn't think it was THAT bad... Oh well It will be ready for paint soon. Ran out of time and nozzle has to be replaced before I can continue.

 

Here are a couple of pics:

 

14895612_10209356253157299_1818615519_o.thumb.jpg.f7be6458223feb4cd7c26958cba63a95.jpg

 

14907723_10209356252597285_74151185_o.thumb.jpg.b03f6899a9e4b1ebbceea035c7508bae.jpg

 

14875938_10209356252437281_1558346948_o.thumb.jpg.00661c5fd8ef714093c134fc6d87c452.jpg

 

14894485_10209356252837291_1956351515_o.thumb.jpg.05e710dde2be7d9f3898aa30c829363e.jpg

 

14813244_10209356253837316_415951741_o.thumb.jpg.8127962eace8027650e82c1b76ba853b.jpg

 

Ray

1971 Boss 351  

1972 Q code 4 speed convertible 

1971 Mustang Sportsroof  351-2V FMX 

1971 Hardtop (parts car)

1973 Mach 1 (parts car)

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Got the heads painted up last night. Yes I know it is not the correct blue. It is slightly lighter and brighter than corporate blue and that's what I wanted. Had a friend at the local body shop supply mix up custom for me. Single stage acrylic with high temp hardener. Will get the water pump painted up tonight. Glad I took his advice and used a respirator while spraying this stuff. It was wicked. I sectioned off the area around my bench with plastic and had a fan blowing out the window and was still nasty.

head1a.thumb.jpg.891b4ceb691d239c02b55affc4341d89.jpg

1527029509_head2a.thumb.jpg.edf963eee604acb1a5324539c7d89be6.jpg

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Today I actually got to touch one of my cars, lol. The original paint and interior California 73 vert with 48,000 miles. I got the COO for my new garage yesterday and made one load of parts and today went for the first car. As luck would have it the cheap 2,500 lb. wench on my dolly died. So I had to load the car using ratchet straps. Do you know how hard that it? I got the car home and there was no way to make a wide enough swing to get the truck, dolly and vert through the door. So I unloaded it and will get a tractor from my sister to pull into the garage. I cannot wait to get power and get to work on something. Going to bring the Black 73 vert tomorrow and maybe the 72 CJ vert if time allows. I still have lots to do around the garage finishing the grade and stone but I need to stop paying storage for the cars so just want to get them out. The butt hole neighbor that complained about them being in his sight to the county can kiss old rusty now. I will pull them outside every chance I get and leave until he complains. The county will get so tired of his calls. He is one person if I live long enough I will dance on his grave. He got pissed when I would not sell him two 65 mustang convertibles I have and then he tried to by the property. He sent his attorney to try to close the deal. What a butt &%$#.

He said everything has a price. Not with me he does not have enough money. Oh by the way you tax payers pay him not to farm in Florida. He was polluting the Everglades with pesticides and herbicides and EPA shut him down so now to be fair the taxpayers pay him not to farm. If that was me they would fine me not give me free money to sit on my millionaire ass. This is a prime example of why the U.S. will fail you cannot re-up your credit cards but so many times. Sorry for getting up on the stump of gripe but people like him are going to be the end of U.S.A..

100_2670.thumb.JPG.835db41a959dd9264ee278a2316a98f7.JPG

100_2671.thumb.JPG.bf4af6d2ba603df3958973da42e73878.JPG

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Huge milestone for you!!! ::thumb::

Thanks

 

Tim

Tucson, Az

1973 SportsRoof

351C bored .040

Crank .020  and Stock cam

Flattop pistons

Edelbrock 4bbl CARB 800 CFM ELEC CHOKE

Edelbrock Performer 2750 Intake Manifold

 

NewPrimedHood_zpsw2jaj0cu.jpg

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I drove 30kms to my suspension mechanics workshop to have my front geometry tuned, canter, camber alignment after rebuilding the suspension with dropspindles, coilovers, upper and lower arms, sway bar, tierods and all the bushes and then the 30kms back home to my workshop.

 

1 guess which trip was better!

 

...Mickus

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Took advantage of a friend offering up his bead blast cabinet for me to use -

 

So the old original Q code breather assy is getting prepped for paint.

 

I can see from the pics I should have cleaned it good with soap and water FIRST, but I didn't think it was THAT bad... Oh well It will be ready for paint soon. Ran out of time and nozzle has to be replaced before I can continue.

 

Here are a couple of pics:

 

 

Ray

 

Just a suggestion. I have blast cabinet and a large pressure fed blaster for big stuff. For parts with paint on them I always strip the paint with liquid stripper and only blast the rusty places, much easier and faster. For small parts like the air cleaner after I use the stripper I would put in my molasses tank to remove the rust. You do nothing but let is sit and all the rust will be removed. Do a search on the forum I have posted the mixture and pics of parts that were de rusted that way. I am lazy so I find the easy way, lol.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Phase 2 complete. I just finished swapping the factory clock for a RCCI clock/tachometer conversion, the factory Ammeter for a Bosch Voltmeter, and installed Mustang Project LEDs, a new printed circuit from NPD, and the lens I'd bought from OMS a few years ago.

 

dashrehab3.jpg

 

dashrehab4.jpg

 

Tomorrow it all goes back in the Mustang, and hopefully everything will now work. Keep 'em crossed for me. :cool:

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Hi Eric,

 

Did you decide to remove the original blue bulb diffusers or pods? I went down that road when i replaced my dash main instrument bulbs with the same Hi Po bulbs that you bought, but kept the blue diffusers on. The end result was very poor light strength wise, and sometime in the future i will have to remove them for better light intensity or strength.

 

Just wanted to let you know what happened to me and the poor result i ended up with.

 

Greg.:-/

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

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+1 on removal blue diffusers. I did not and put it back together and it looked the same. Back out it came and removed them. Huge difference now. I used to need a flashlight to drive at night.

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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I left the blue diffusers and although is not as bright as newer cars, it made a huge difference. My LEDs are dimable and I am not even using the brightest level. I did clean each diffuser with alcohol. The final color with the diffusers is greenish, which looks good.

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Where did you guys get the LED kits?

 

Hey Kevin,

 

Here's a link to the place you buy them from -

 

http://www.hipoparts.com/1965-73-ford-mustang-led-gauge-light-conversion-kit/

 

ALSO - Some of the Forum boys have bought LED bulbs from Super bright lights and love them too -

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/vehicle/1973-ford-mustang?make=28&model=1204&year=1973

 

ALSO - These are popular too - I've bought them, and have yet to try them out.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Jtech-2825-5-SMD-Green-Lights/dp/B009SHJH00/ref=pd_sim_auto_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1QH0N32FK4AF8Q6X69KZ

 

ALSO - Here is Hi Po's tech page choc full of great information -

 

http://www.hipoparts.com/led-gauge-cluster-tech-section/

 

ALSO - Here is Hi Po's other bulbs for 1,2,3 Mustangs.

 

http://www.hipoparts.com/1971-73-ford-mustang/

 

Cheers,

 

Greg.::thumb::

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

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Where did you guys get the LED kits?

 

Hey Kevin,

 

Here's a link to the place you buy them from -

 

http://www.hipoparts.com/1965-73-ford-mustang-led-gauge-light-conversion-kit/

 

ALSO - Some of the Forum boys have bought LED bulbs from Super bright lights and love them too -

 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/vehicle/1973-ford-mustang?make=28&model=1204&year=1973

 

ALSO - These are popular too - I've bought them, and have yet to try them out.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Jtech-2825-5-SMD-Green-Lights/dp/B009SHJH00/ref=pd_sim_auto_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1QH0N32FK4AF8Q6X69KZ

 

ALSO - Here is Hi Po's tech page choc full of great information -

 

http://www.hipoparts.com/led-gauge-cluster-tech-section/

 

ALSO - Here is Hi Po's other bulbs for 1,2,3 Mustangs.

 

http://www.hipoparts.com/1971-73-ford-mustang/

 

Cheers,

 

Greg.::thumb::

 

Jeez Greg, atleast give me some choices!! rofl

Thanks man!! ::thumb::

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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My take on a few of the questions.

 

Yes, the Bosch voltmeter's posts "line up" with the holes in the housing... barely. They're tight and maybe they were off by a millimeter or two, but it's in without modification to the housing.

 

I found my LEDs at The Mustang Project:

http://www.mustangproject.com/ProductDisplay.aspx?ID=ab0c83e6-20fd-44bb-aa7a-8a9d79a0e19f (speedo cluster)

http://www.mustangproject.com/ProductDisplay.aspx?ID=df75771d-f905-4138-ba62-a4b189275df5 (aux gauge cluster)

 

The speedometer cluster kit included turn-signal LED bulbs (green), high beam light (red), and a few "extra" LED bulbs (since I don't have all the 'idiot lights') - all are 194-style bulbs. The aux gauge cluster kit came with 4 white LEDs (194-style) and 3 of the 1895-style white bulbs for the headlight, wiper, and lighter switches.

 

I hadn't pulled any of the diffusers when I saw the responses the other day, thinking that the blue light would be pretty cool... but then I remembered how much I hate my alarm clock (an iPod clock) with its blue LED backlight, so, I pulled them out. No going back now though, since every tab holding the diffusers in-place decided to give up (thanks to 45-year-old plastic) - oh well. All the diffusers came out in great shape, so I guess I can always glue 'em back in or something if it becomes that important.

 

Now the bad news: My wife decided she was going to go to the store right as I was getting ready to pull the Mustang out and put it all back together. He car wouldn't start - [almost] dead battery. She did the same thing last week and I told her she needed a new battery - to which she just blew it off. I had put it on the charger last week while I worked on the Mustang, and then she never went anywhere all week. So, "red car no go putt-putt." I went to O'Reilly's and got a new battery, swapped it out, and thanks to daylight savings time and some cloud cover, it started getting dark shortly afterward, so I decided I was done for the day.

 

So - now I guess I'll have to wait until next weekend to find out if everything works.

 

I must've been a little careless while I was slinging the battery around and taking apart/putting back together her car because my lower back is completely shot right now. It took me 10 minutes to put on my socks this morning... and that was after 15 minutes in the shower with nothing but the hot water running on my back. I'm guessing I'd probably be a bigger pretzel if I'd had to climb all over the inside of the Mustang as well.

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Where did you guys get the LED kits?

 

 

 

Jeez Greg, at least give me some choices!! rofl

Thanks man!! ::thumb::

 

 

Austin's gonna Sock It To Ya Kevin!:D:D

 

 

 

Hey Eric,

 

Sorry about your bad back. We ain't gett'n any younger are we.:-/

 

Greg.:)

:whistling: LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED

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I bought these LEDs for my instrument cluster:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/206/

 

I bought 10, which was enough for the cluster, but could have used a couple more to replace bulbs in other places.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Talking about LED bulbs, what is the difference between installing a 1157 LED bulb or one of those plasma LEDs at the tail lights?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Hey Eric,

 

Sorry about your bad back. We ain't gett'n any younger are we.:-/

 

Greg.:)

 

It's kind of one of those things: I know it's been coming, and I usually take steps to make sure I'm supported before twisting or bending way over. Unfortunately, the battery area of her Grand Prix only comes up to somewhere above my knees, and I can't exactly do anything one-handed since there's not much room in there. So, no 'three-point support' for that project.

 

It's a little better today. At least I didn't give the impression I almost crying when I put my socks on this morning. :whistling:

 

Tonight ought to be fun when I take my Tuba to Community Band rehearsal. :-/ (at least the case has wheels)

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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