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droptop73
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Put Pilterbilt truck pull-switch as replacement to the naff Ford design for this location  - solid metal construction 

knob is machined metal chromed  - and your knee  doesn't foul it

...a better quality option folks 

peterbilt.jpg

switch.JPG

Edited by 1sostatic

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Enjoy's searching out 71-73 history

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On 4/17/2021 at 10:11 AM, 1sostatic said:

Stick Gator was toast... all perished away 

So wanted to make a hairy version like the Jagwaar XJS has ( I had one years ago - V12)

I bent my stiff bits to the right curve --- then trimmed my pubes to the right length with a little interlacing between partners. 

pubes3.jpg

Mounted them and epoxy was used to make sure they stayed put. 

 

 

I've been wanting to do this. Where did you get the brushes at? 

 

Chris -  Born in '73 - Drive a '73 / Former U.S. Army 63B10-H8 / 1st Infantry Division - The Big Red One

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Heard a ticking noise coming from the engine bay. It has been a few days that I hear it but it was not coming from inside the engine since it was not constant and did not detected it with the stethoscope. Today it got worst while at an AutoX event. Eventually I noticed that the engine pulley was wobbly. It happens that two of the bolts were gone and the two left were loose. No wonder. I was lucky to caught it. I ended up removing one and tightened them  180 degrees apart and made it home.

Now I have to get new bolts and I will use Loctite this time. The stock bolts have a serrated washer that is meant to prevent rotation but I think I will be better with Loctite. I think the main issue is that I reused the old bolts instead of getting new ones when I put the engine together.

Edited by tony-muscle

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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23 minutes ago, tony-muscle said:

Heard a ticking noise coming from the engine bay. It has been a few days that I hear it but it was not coming from inside the engine since it was not constant and did not detected it with the stethoscope. Today it got worst while at an AutoX event. Eventually I noticed that the engine pulley was wobbly. It happens that two of the bolts were gone and the two left were loose. No wonder. I was lucky to caught it. I ended up removing one and tightened them  180 degrees apart and made it home.

Now I have to get new bolts and I will use Loctite this time. The stock bolts have a serrated washer that is meant to prevent rotation but I think I will be better with Loctite. I think the main issue is that I reused the old bolts instead of getting new ones when I put the engine together.

Lucky you caught it before it came off.. Lords knows what kind of damage it would have caused flying around under the hood.  Glad you made it home ok.

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Kilgon

 

 

"The only dumb question is the one not asked"

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13 hours ago, Big Red Mach 1 said:

I've been wanting to do this. Where did you get the brushes at? 

 

YO! ! ! Big Red 

they are stolen from these https://www.ebay.com/itm/223543502866 

Yes - a mail box :thumb:

 

I just trimmed the pubes to the right size :whistling: with sharp scissors

They have a very heavy spine - I cut to size with heavy wire cutters and pinch down the two ends closed -

To get the curve- I just gently tease it with a small bench vice to help until I get the right radius for where the old rubbery gator went. It takes a bit of patience 

It is good to rough up the surface in there and use brake cleaner (IPA) to ensure no grease exists 

Place back the original gator metal shim held by the two capture washers

Then finally bond everything down with https://www.ebay.com/itm/363188053955 - when you're all satisfyingly "stiff" - replace back sending your big stick through the now hairy slot :cool:

 

 

pubes copy.jpg

Edited by 1sostatic
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Enjoy's searching out 71-73 history

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I bought mine from McMaster Carr. I forget which ones, but remember that I had to trim them.

I did use the same epoxy in place technique :thumb:

https://www.mcmaster.com/conveyor-brushes?SrchEntryWebPart_InpBox=conveyor+brushes

 

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73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

 

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;

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Been working on the rad support frame and headlight assembly's, knocking out dents, cleaning and working out correct bolts, sanding cleaning and painting.

 

A slection of Metric, and mis-matched bolts some idiot had used throwing the damaged car together!   It really annoys me when the wrong bolts are used! 

IMG_20210426_121828.jpg

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Since the back is still out been finding and cleaning bolt on parts. Got quite a pile going. I did kick panels, one dash end, two radiator hold downs, window guide rods and one window lift. Also got the AM / Track bezel painted and wiped the paint back off the chrome outlines and volume and tuning letters. Cleaned some on the rear window guides and blasted some. Blasted the gas filler and flattened flange and sprayed. Cleaned grease and paint off hood hinges and parking brake with oven cleaner. Turned out an off brand worked better than Easy Off who took something out. After a couple days of drying I wrap in stretch wrap and put in boxes labeled where they go.
Can't get up on the mezzanine to get more parts will see who can come over help me move stuff around.
I do need a Mach 1 grill 1972 since this car will have Decor Group. I have several sets of the stainless trim but not a good grill two broke ones. I might go to my friends shop and make a new pivot pin for the hood release and get that staked in tomorrow then I can blast the hood latch, hood hinges, parking brake and gas pedal bracket and to the Manganese Phosphate on them. Will do some pics on that so all can learn it is simple to do just take a while to prep.

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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LOL, I do type with both hands and do not look at keyboard. My co workers use to get pissed because in training I was always done first.
Anyway, Ford used Manganese Phosphate on components that they felt paint might interfere with the operation. If you paint hood hinges, hood latches, parking brakes and gas pedals it can make them stick and not operate smoothly. The MP is what most know as Parkerizing, been used on guns for years to prevent rust. When you get a new cam most have M.P. coating on them for break in. The lobes look frosty and gray.
It is somewhat of a rust prevent but for sure not as good as plating but it does get into all the cracks and crevices that plating cannot get into. If you tried to plate a hood hinge assembled it would be horrible mess.
After the M.P. coating you spray several times with WD-40 and I am going to experiment with hot waxing to see if it will work. Ford use to dip their truck frames in hot wax to seal them up.
The most difficult thing is finding a container large enough to put the hood hinges in. I do remove the springs and put a piece of conduit to hold the coils apart to get full coverage.
Will take several day for me to prep my vacuum went out on blast cabinet so have to do something there also.
Here is link to site I get the chemicals from in S.C. you can get done at plating shops also. It just matches to what Ford did originally.
https://www.palmettoenterprisesparkerizing.com/product-page/manganes-pint-16oz
I ordered a gallon of chemical which gets expensive but going to do three sets of hinges and latches and stuff.

 

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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On 4/26/2021 at 4:45 AM, 1sostatic said:

YO! ! ! Big Red 

they are stolen from these https://www.ebay.com/itm/223543502866 

Yes - a mail box :thumb:

 

I just trimmed the pubes to the right size :whistling: with sharp scissors

They have a very heavy spine - I cut to size with heavy wire cutters and pinch down the two ends closed -

To get the curve- I just gently tease it with a small bench vice to help until I get the right radius for where the old rubbery gator went. It takes a bit of patience 

It is good to rough up the surface in there and use brake cleaner (IPA) to ensure no grease exists 

Place back the original gator metal shim held by the two capture washers

Then finally bond everything down with https://www.ebay.com/itm/363188053955 - when you're all satisfyingly "stiff" - replace back sending your big stick through the now hairy slot :cool:

 

 

pubes copy.jpg

I tried to do this, but it isn’t as easy as you make it look! 
So I ordered a new one fro OMS, can’t wait to get it!

Edited by jpaz

John - 72 Q Code

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I see you still have 4 wheel drum brakes. Most people here in the U.S. do not realize that you need to grind the arch on the new shoes to fit the drum. If the drum is bell mouthed you need to turn within Max. spec. cast into the drum. I recently found one of the Ammco 8,000 shoe grinders and did a refurb on it. I am missing one piece that I will either make or find one.
When the asbestos scare hit in the 70's most shops took the grinders out. They do have a dust collection bag and I will also roll outside when I use it and wear a mask. I know Australia has cracked down on antique vehicles coming into the country with any asbestos parts such as brake shoes, clutches, gaskets and actually the undercoat and seam sealer Ford used had asbestos as a filler.
If you do not grind the shoes they have to wear in to fit the drum that is the reason drum brakes get a bad wrap. You start out with as little as 30% brake if not ground. You might check with some old shops to see if they still have one. This one will do from 6" dia. to 16" dia.. I think heavy trucks still do the grinding since they mostly have shoes. I also have and Ammco brake drum and rotor lathe. If you shop around the one I got was $350 and the grinder was $150. Some cleaning and few cans of paint looks like new.

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I finished up the front lighting between other chores and watching 2 young grandsons over the weekend. I went out with some gearhead friends on Friday evening and while talking I decided to wire the 73 turn signals as running lights. I have the 71-72 turn signals below the bumper so why not? There was a keyed hot wire in the harness for an electric fan I'm not using so... there ya go. The side markers are wired to flash with the turn signals. I installed a relay harness for the headlights and used the Hella globes and LED lights discussed in my headlight relay thread. There's no power yet so I'll have to wait to see how it works. On to the tail section. That should be simpler with less changes. 

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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Well... last weekend I ran the power wires for the fusebox and the MSD. I moved the start relay to below the charcoal can to hide it a bit, gotta make a hole for the battery cable yet. . The engine harness is pulled through the firewall and is waiting for the engine to get dropped back in before cutting the wires to length. On to wiring up the column and interior switches. 

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[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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I loaded up the 73 Mach 1 and drove 122 miles to the Mustang Owner's Museum for a First Generation Mustang show. Nobody showed. Only 9 cars. Was a popular vote and a 1964 1/2 coupe owned by Harris that has Harris Mustang parts won. Beautiful perfect car.
Of course there was no gas in Charlotte I took 10 gallons with me extra but got a fill up in Shelby, N.C.. I get about 9 mpg pulling the 20' enclosed car trailer.
So I am thinking rent a diesel to go to Carlisle Penn in June.
If not I just will no show. My 308,000 mile 5.4 made another trip.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I sorted all the parts out for Sallys 71 mach in anticipation that it will come home soon from the body shop.

David,......Ive got a 2001 f350 crew 4x4 7.3  powerstroke. Has 120k miles on it. Ive been thinking of selling. Be a very good truck for Ya. I get notes on it all the time from buyers.

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On 5/1/2021 at 11:24 PM, Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs said:

I see you still have 4 wheel drum brakes. Most people here in the U.S. do not realize that you need to grind the arch on the new shoes to fit the drum. If the drum is bell mouthed you need to turn within Max. spec. cast into the drum. I recently found one of the Ammco 8,000 shoe grinders and did a refurb on it. I am missing one piece that I will either make or find one.
When the asbestos scare hit in the 70's most shops took the grinders out. They do have a dust collection bag and I will also roll outside when I use it and wear a mask. I know Australia has cracked down on antique vehicles coming into the country with any asbestos parts such as brake shoes, clutches, gaskets and actually the undercoat and seam sealer Ford used had asbestos as a filler.
If you do not grind the shoes they have to wear in to fit the drum that is the reason drum brakes get a bad wrap. You start out with as little as 30% brake if not ground. You might check with some old shops to see if they still have one. This one will do from 6" dia. to 16" dia.. I think heavy trucks still do the grinding since they mostly have shoes. I also have and Ammco brake drum and rotor lathe. If you shop around the one I got was $350 and the grinder was $150. Some cleaning and few cans of paint looks like new.

David,
Thanks for the info.. The brake shoes that were in it were replaced some time ago and still have plenty of material on them. So I just serviced the brakes by replacing the wheel cylinders and flushed the brake lines and replaced the master cylinder due to contaminated brake fluid and a leak. All is working perfectly now and no need to machine the shoes. I will replace the front drums in the future, but for now, just want to get it on the road.

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I picked up my engine hoist from a friend last night, I'm planning to drop the engine and trans back in this weekend. The re-wire is almost done... it's WAY overdue to get back on the road. I'm missing some prime top down therapy time. 

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[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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16 minutes ago, droptop73 said:

I picked up my engine hoist from a friend last night, I'm planning to drop the engine and trans back in this weekend. The re-wire is almost done... it's WAY overdue to get back on the road. I'm missing some prime top down therapy time. 

Weekend is near so top-down-time too :thumb:

Wish you success and all gets in in a heartbeat :wrench:

 

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Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :runninpony:

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Cleaned up around and under the car in preparation to finally weld in the subframe connectors. Pulled the old headers off and fitted a set of $99 eBay stainless Tri-Y headers to prove to myself that these fit fine with a manual trans 71-73 w/302. Everything bolted up as it should, and the fork is close to the collector. but completely manageable. 

Next step is to wash and degrease the underside of the car, wire wheel the floor pans and then grind back the POR-15 where I'll be welding. 

 

 

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Last weekend was big... the car is back on all 4 wheels and the engine and trans is back in. The battery cables are routed and it's almost ready to start testing circuits. Under the car is all together. It's getting close to getting back on the road... 

IMG_3416.jpg

IMG_3419.jpg

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[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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