How to remove pitman arm from drag link

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Tesla80

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Aug 12, 2024
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Location
Pa USA
My Car
1972 Coupe Grande 302 FMX
I decided since it is Christmas today that I would start working on replacing my leaking steering box. I got stumped on this one though. Where the pitman arm meets the drag link there is no room to use a puller or a pickle fork. Is the easiest way to just hammer on the sides of it to get it to pop off ? I figured I would ask before I went cave man on it. Thanks in advance !
 

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I did mine with a tierod/ball point separator. Put some tension on it, then if you have to, whack it on the side with a hammer to jar it loose.

The hard part is getting the pitman arm off the steering box.

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I do not have to worry about getting it off the box. I have a new arm and a new box. How does one use that tool you listed to remove the pitman arm in my case. Thanks !
 
Since you have a new pitman arm, there's no worry about threads, just tap atop the stud peeking through the drag link a couple times. They usually separate after a couple taps. Spraying the area with a little PB Blaster doesn't hurt either. Just be sure to not take a huge wack. You don't want to damage the bearings of the box unless it's toast and being replaced anyhow.
 
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Since you have a new pitman arm, there's no worry about threads, just tap atop the stud peeking through the drag link a couple times. They usually separate after a couple taps. Spraying the area with a little PB Blaster doesn't hurt either. Just be sure to not take a huge wack. You don't want to damage the bearings of the box unless it's toast and being replaced anyhow.
Yup that is what i am going to do tomorrow. Use an long extension from the top of the engine bay since the long tubes are in the way to get a hammer in there from the bottom. The box is getting replaced with a new unit with a faster ratio so I can beat the hell out of it.
 
Back when I was doing restorations and suspension work, I was taught to break ball joints and any tapered studs, by giving the part with the tapered hole a good , well placed hit, with no less than a 28oz sledge hammer. Leave the nut loosely on the threads up top, rare back, aim, and swing! It'll pop. It's a fairly common way to get the job done. Pickle-forks and other means just don't seem to work as well. I imagine a torch may work too, I've never tried that, but be carefull,
 
I did what Spike suggested, I used a blow Torch, the type plumbers use for soldering copper pipe. Then I used two club hammers and gave that pitman arm a good belt simultaneously and that did the job with a little help from two wedge shaped chisels taped in either side under the PS box.
 
When I replaced the steering linkage in my '73 F100 pickup a couple of years ago, I could not get the drag link to separate from the Pitman arm. I tried a pickle fork and 4 lb. hammer and beat on it until I thought I was going to pass out. Then I remembered the old mechanic's trick that others have already mentioned: apply heat! I fired up my cheap Harbor Freight heat gun and heated the joint for about 5 minutes. First whack with the pickle fork and hammer and the drag link popped right off! I could have saved myself a lot of trouble if I'd just heated the joint first.
 
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