1973 Mustang Battery - Backwards Installation?

[Boswell]

Hi: I am replacing a dead battery on my ‘73 convertible. This hookup (of the old battery) looks like it might be backwards to me. Is it? Thanks for the help. -W

 

[Steve McMahan]

No, it’s connected correctly. Do you have the battery secured? A moving battery is a bad thing.

Are you asking because you’re having issues? If so, let us know.

 

[Sheriff41]

The 24F is the right battery. Make sure the negative cable is connected to the body as well as the engine block. A poor or disconnected ground to the body can cause many electrical issues.

 

[351c1971]

No, it’s connected correctly. Do you have the battery secured? A moving battery is a bad thing.

Are you asking because you’re having issues? If so, let us know.

Battery type & Connections are correct. My battery is rotated 180 degrees.

 

[Steve McMahan]

I thought you were asking about the battery connections being backwards. I should have said, connectors are on the right post, but as 351c1971 said, the battery is in the cradle backwards. But if it works, .

 

[basstrix]

I'm using a 24F battery, a heavy duty version of OEM cables (meaning the length supposedly per Ford), and have my battery oriented as in the image below (not mine). The positive cable would not reach if rotated 180deg with the cable set I have. The image is courtesy of the
www.429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/images/batterydetail.jpg

I am also guilty of not having a tie down in place

 

[Boswell]

No, it’s connected correctly. Do you have the battery secured? A moving battery is a bad thing.

Are you asking because you’re having issues? If so, let us know.

Thanks. I had removed the securing clamp. Battery was dead and I tried to jump it but just saw the red cable and assumed negative without looking at the battery. Cranked feebly a few times and then everything went dead so probably blew a fuse. Rookie mistake, I know.

 

[Boswell]

I'm using a 24F batter, a heavy duty version of OEM cables (meaning the length supposedly per Ford), and have my battery oriented as in the image below (not mine). The positive cable would not reach if rotated 180deg with the cable set I have. The image is courtesy of the
www.429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/images/batterydetail.jpg

I am also guilty of not having a tie down in place

View attachment 82493

Thanks for the photo!

 

[TheRktmn]

The 24F (F for Ford) battery puts the positive post next to the starter solenoid.

 

[SteveO_71]

but just saw the red cable and assumed negative

Typically red is POSITIVE and black is NEGATIVE.

 

[Hemikiller]

Thanks. I had removed the securing clamp. Battery was dead and I tried to jump it but just saw the red cable and assumed negative without looking at the battery. Cranked feebly a few times and then everything went dead so probably blew a fuse. Rookie mistake, I know.

There is no fuse in the starter circuit. Slow/weak cranking with a known good battery is often caused by poor grounding. There must be a solid battery -> body -> engine ground path. The factory ground cable, which it looks like you may still have, has a body ground strip mid way to the engine. That strap is supposed to be attached to the apron by the lower mounting screw of the voltage regulator. If that strap is not connected, or another one added, you will have electrical problems.

 

[Boswell]

I am posting a few pictures from different angles of the fuses - do any of them appear to be blown?

 

[basstrix]

That 14A Courtesy Lamp fuse looks like it's been hot and started to burn through. I usually just use a test lamp and touch it to both side of the fuse. Some will be energized with key off, some with key on.

 

[351c1971]

In this case I chose safety over OEM. I added an AGM battery, plastic terminal covers and a battery isolator switch.
Can't be too careful with 50+ year old wiring.

 

[basstrix]

I like the idea of an isolator. Did you notice any difference in voltage (while cranking) after adding this?

 

[351c1971]

I like the idea of an isolator. Did you notice any difference in voltage (while cranking) after adding this?

 

[351c1971]

Good question. No voltage drop if the terminal switch is copper or brass.
There are many POS isolators on the internet. Here is a link to one of the good ones:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IH4JT5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
If you scratch the isolator and it's silver under the plating, you have a POS.

 

[351c1971]

Good question. No voltage drop if the terminal switch is copper or brass.
There are many POS isolators on the internet. Here is a link to one of the good ones:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IH4JT5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
If you scratch the isolator and it's silver under the plating, you have a POS.

To clarify, my battery is rotated 180 degrees from OEM. I feel that it is safer with the positive terminal on the side away from the engine. I also needed room for the disconnect with the cable running up on the side of the battery.
Regards, Jim