351 Cleveland 4V - what headers?

[Luc Feilla]

Hi everyone - I am looking at getting headers for my '71 with a 351 4V. I used to have FPA headers in a 1969 Mach 1 with a 351C, they fit very well. I talked to FPA today and a new set delivered to my home would be $1,520!! That's just too much money.

I was wondering what other options there are out there for headers that fit well and are not ground scrapers with no clearance. I saw the Flotechs are reasonable as are Hookers. I remember Hooker's hanging way down low, and so I am a bit leary of them. Thanks for any ideas.

 

[Sheriff41]

I have Hooker SuperComp headers on mine. They're a long tube header and fit well. They've held up well going on 30 years.

 

[Zach]

From my research I have heard hooker comps are the way to go, ceramic coat them to make em last. This will be the way I go, after I sell my 2v hookers that I bought before I had a plan...

 

[Hemikiller]

Hooker 6915s are my header of choice for a 351C-4V engine in these cars. Fit great, not huge money, easy to install and will clear the OE clutch linkage. My current set went in from the bottom without removing the Z-bar for the clutch.

https://www.summitracing.com/search...wordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=6915hkr

 

[Luc Feilla]

So guys how is the ground clearance on those Hooker Comps? - I'm sure it is better than the Super Comps. The Comps are the 1 3/4" primaries right? I think this is probably the right call. I was looking at the Flotechs, too. They seem good, also. Any thoughts on the shorty headers from Sanderson or Patriot? I'm sure that they would be down a lot of horsepower.

 

[jpaz]

I have the same headers as Hemikiller, great fit and clearance. My Mach is an automatic and zero issues with installation.

 

[Bobby]

I installed Sanderson ceramic coated headers on my 393C Stroker. They are shorties but they fit well and work with power steering. Raw headers are less than $500 and ceramic coated are $725. They were $600 when I bought them 4 years ago.

 

[will e]

I've had both the super comp (long tube) and comp ('short' tube). Here's a writeup I did:

https://7173mustangs.com/threads/hooker-headers-super-comp-to-comp-swap.9908/

 

[Q1SVT]

I've had both the super comp (long tube) and comp ('short' tube). Here's a writeup I did:

https://7173mustangs.com/threads/hooker-headers-super-comp-to-comp-swap.9908/

Just a point of clarification… well e, you have a convertible so the motor mount PEDESTAL / FRAME BRACKET are shorter by an inch+ …

I'm sure that they would be down a lot of horsepower.

What intake manifold are you going to run? What rear gearing?

 

[Mark Jones]

I bought Hooker Competition long tube headers for my 72 351C 4V - 4spd. Bought them from Top Flight Automotive on sale for $158.99 painted! The current price is $315.99. With the car 22" off the ground (I made wheel cribs) they slid right in. I didnt even bang up the paint. Their advertisement says "No PS and No PB". I have both (OEM) and they still went in without a hitch. Didnt have to remove a thing or lift the engine. No ceramic coating is my only regret. If you can afford it, DO IT!

 

[Luc Feilla]

Just a point of clarification… well e, you have a convertible so the motor mount PEDESTAL / FRAME BRACKET are shorter by an inch+ …


What intake manifold are you going to run? What rear gearing?

Q1SVT - the motor currently has an old Torker intake on it. I would lean towards an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, but I have seen confusing results with the Torker, sometimes they outperform other intakes. I like the Scott Cook intake but that's like trying to find hen's teeth. My intention is to go to a dyno and compare a few intakes - I can switch them pretty fast. the crazy thing is that I can't seem to find a dyno place in the Detroit area that caters to carbureted vehicles, it's frustrating.

It's a 3.25 Traction-Lock in the 9". I will be installing an updated version of the Boss 351 cam - it's in my signature below.

 

[Luc Feilla]

I've had both the super comp (long tube) and comp ('short' tube). Here's a writeup I did:

https://7173mustangs.com/threads/hooker-headers-super-comp-to-comp-swap.9908/

Hi Will E - how is the ground clearance versus the Super Comp Hooker's that you had? You seemed to think that the clearance was better but it didn't really say in your thread. Was there any difference or they just shorter and smaller? Thanks.

 

[will e]

Hi Will E - how is the ground clearance versus the Super Comp Hooker's that you had? You seemed to think that the clearance was better but it didn't really say in your thread. Was there any difference or they just shorter and smaller? Thanks.

More clearance with the comp headers. With the super comps I had to take speed bumps VERY slowly and would often still smack them. I still slow down with the comps but can't recall the last time I had a smack.

 

[Omie01]

I would go with the RPM Air Gap!! I have run the Performer, Blue Thunder, and Air Gap. There is no comparison. The Air Gap out performs by a mile!! Unless you plan on drag racing, then thats a different story.

 

[Q1SVT]

Q1SVT - the motor currently has an old Torker intake on it. I would lean towards an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, but I have seen confusing results with the Torker, sometimes they outperform other intakes.

just a couple thoughts...
Carbs need a spacer before they dump into a single plane intake, to build a great signal… Google Willson Intakes they offer tapered four hole carb spaces… ‘Torker’ style and others like two oval dual plane intakes.

Many good intakes, but I like a 4V to be a 4V… 1970 is the same as a 351c Boss just a spread bore.
https://7173mustangs.com/threads/interesting-performance-from-an-oem-4v-intake.38127/
Many posts about C intakes are &%&**^

The 1970 L just needs the carb pad holes to be bored to match the carb bores… Technically it's also a spread bore lol good street intake...

I once had a guy from Calumet tell me anything south of the bridge is Detroit… This dyno guy is around Grand Rapids -mittenland
https://7173mustangs.com/threads/sh...-very-good-dyno-conversation-on-tuning.45128/

HemiKiller go to is a good header…. With other 4V headers look at how they are at the header flange. because the 4V exhaust is much larger then the header pipe, you want the pipe to meet straight at the top and have all of the pipe expansion on the bottom… Many are expanded all around.