351 cleveland 4v

[54fordf100]

Hey everyone I am in need of major help here I have searched everything trying to find answers to my questions and I came by this site I have a 351 cleveland I am building , when I got the engine it was bare had nothing on it except old intake which I took off and rebuild the whole engine just like this been bored to 30 over new pistons new cam with 239 duration and a 540 lift heads ported polished all new valves aand springs matching everything up but I am haveing problems finding everything for my torker 2 intake I have no idea what all screws into the intake and where all my vaccum lines go I have tried to find people that uses this intake to see what valves I need and where every line goes to but no luck so if anyone has a torker 2 on there cleveland or any ideas help is needed thanks Matt

 

[Mesozoic]

I've used a Torker II on a 351W, but not on a 351C. I'm pretty certain that the majority of your vacuum lines are going to be attached to your carb, not the intake manifold. Have you read Edelbrock's instructions for your manifold? http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/misc/tech_center/install/2000/2760.pdf

 

[54fordf100]

Yes sir I have there are 4 holes around the top of the intake that something screws into and I cannot figure out what they are

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I have the original Torker, but if you will send a picture of the holes you are referring to, I am sure we can help

Is this it



If so, the stand off in the back is for your throttle cable assembly to bolt to.

The 4 larger holes surrounding the car are bolt holes and, obviously, the 4 holes on the carb mounting pad are for the carb mounting studs.

On mine (and I cant see in the photos) is a fitting below the carb for a larger vacuum line . I have a 90 degree tube and fittings there to pull for my vacuum brake line (It goes to a vacuum canister frst as my camshaft is pretty friggin big (I just enjoy saying that), I have a 3/8 line of the carb baseplate to the PCV valve, the ported vacuum comes from the carb, and the extra vacuum line from the carb is used to operate my Ram Air flappers.

Of course I have aftermarket AC and if your car is AC equipped from the factory, then there will be a factory canister that needs a line and it would operate your controls. If you don't have Ram Air, then the carb fitting would be available., if you do a t fitting would allow that same port to provide your vacuum source for both.

 

[Mesozoic]

Those 4 holes better not be for the carb studs!

 

[54fordf100]

there not [/font]carb holes lol I have the carb on it already


Jeff that's it I posted torker 2 and ment to say torker thank you so much for your help my cleveland is setting in a 54 ford f100 now I have another question I am not running a heater or a/c on my cleveland can I block both of those hoses coming from the block and the water pump

 

[turtle5353]

there not [/font]carb holes lol I have the carb on it already


Jeff that's it I posted torker 2 and ment to say torker thank you so much for your help my cleveland is setting in a 54 ford f100 now I have another question I am not running a heater or a/c on my cleveland can I block both of those hoses coming from the block and the water pump

I blocked off both mine. They are press in and we pulled them out and tapped the holes and run in a NPT thread plug into the holes.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

There are also some threaded blind holes in the corners which provide mounting points for things like coils and clamps-these tend to stay empty upon install except for maybe one for the coil. I run an HEI with the coil in cap so I don't have a coil mounted on the intake. I would prefer to run a coil mounted off the engine and away from the heat

 

[54fordf100]

Okay great thanks again I am also running a the same thing coil in cap now one more question and I think I good to go were can I get a wiring harness for a 1 wire starter 1 wire alternator and 1 wire built in coil disturbitor I wanna fire my engine without having to spend 600 Dallors on a full wiring harness from Ron Francis at the moment thanks Matt

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

For the one wire alternator, you really don't need an additional harness, you literally run a wire to the battery hot side or battery hot side of the starter relay. The one wire distributors are about as easy, you just need a key on power source (as the car won't shut off otherwise)

I'm only familiar with the 1 wire starter as a conversion of GM starters to ford style using a remote mount starter relay (it is often called a solenoid)

If you have no harness at all that's a bigger issue.

 

[will e]

Long term, if this is a street car, you might consider going dual plane rather than a single plane.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

It also depends on the gearing you have- I ran my torker with a holley 700 double pumper for several years around town mostly and it was never a problem- but I was on 4.10 gears at first, then 3.50 and then finally to a 3.89. But I have a stick shift, it might be different with a slushbox

 

[54fordf100]

Thanks guys for all ur help this as been the only site that's answered everything for me. Here's my build I have a 1954 ford f100 short bed with no limit suspension 5 bar link in rear with air bags notched frame and all boxed , front suspension is wide ride ifs with air bags all disc brakes 351 cleveland q code open chambered heads ported and polished comp cam 239 duration 540 lift 750 holly double pumper bored 30 over new forged pistons all balanced and everything matching only stock in motor is rockers they were actually big Enuff and had Enuff room to move so I didn't change em rods all been hardened decks been surfaced and so has the heads all this setting behind a 71 Mach 1 4 speed toploader rebuild with big ford 9 inch rearend 3.50 gears


Yes I have no harness at all but Ron Frances can build me one , I am just trying to get it were I can start my motor without having to spend 600 Dallors at the moment

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Well that's not too hard then

All you need is a battery, a ground to engine block, a hot cable to the starter, and a power for your electric choke and ignition coil. Pick up a remote starter switch if you don't want to start the car by putting the wire to the solenoid up against a positive power source to crank by hand. If a stock style ignition, you need to add a ballast resistor to drop voltage, but if HEI or other modern coil that takes full 12 volts that is not necessary. You will need to be careful not to leave the choke powered up when the engine is not running as you will burn it up.

Alternator is unnecessary, but a one wire is pretty simple to hook up to the battery.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Remote-Starter-Switch/_/N-25eo

 

[54fordf100]

Oh wow Easyier than I thought thanks Jeff , is there an adaptor or something I can get to plug into that distiburtor been looking to see what it's called,

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Look at this and see if it helps.



and what distributor are you using?



and one more



Where are you in Kentucky?

 

[54fordf100]

That works Jeff that's all I need were did u find these I have looked everywhere thanks , in the southern part barren county

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

You are less than an hour away from me-I'm North of Nashville. Unfortunately I am swamped through the next 4-5 weeks, but if you need a hand after that let me know and I'll road trip up there and we can turn some wrenches and maybe have a cold drink.


I used google and started with a search for "simple V8 engine wiring", then went to "engine test stand wiring" and then "ford v-8 engine test wiring" and image searched rather than text as it seems faster to me to search that way for things that involve diagrams and pictures and such.

Even those are all more complicated than necessary

 

[54fordf100]

Oh nice heck yea if I need ya I'll let you know and like I said thanks again so much for your help I am ready to get this beast started