351c cam choice.

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It runs awesome, this was my attempt at humor because edelbrock 600 carbs get such a bad rap. The comp cam works excellent with my combo. Sorry for the confusion.
"Baby Cams." You're saying a CompCams Hi-Energy .566" lift, 274/274 (214/214 @ .050") is a "Baby Cam?" rofl

I love my Eddie 600 as well. ::thumb::

 
Aahg, all this cam stuff is driving me crazy. Would be so much easier if i had more to choose from here in sweden.

But all i can find here are either way too agressive or not agressive enough.

And if i want a cam with over 500, is it true i have to get aftermarket valve springs? In that case my budget is blown away instantly if i go with lunati or say comp cams.

And all the reasonably priced kits at ebay wich include springs and everything also seem either too agressive or not agressive enough.

Man it sucks to live in sweden sometimes.

 
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Did you find out about shipping from summit racing.

I would run stiffer springs with a .500 lift cam.

 
Your eBay vendor handles Elgin Prostock cams. Here is a link to their catalog. http://catalog.elginind.com/download/PROSTOCK.PDF 351C listing are on pages 18 and 19, many choices. Please remember ALL the cam and valve train components must be complementary. Factory sled type rocker arms (even with good fulcrums) and factory pushrods are not optimal for high lift cams and high spring pressures. Chuck

 
Yes shipping from summit was quite expensive, if i have to upgrade the rest of the valvetrain with the cam i cant afford to take that route.

c9zx: You mean i need like roller rockers? I think i cant afford going with a high lift cam :-/

 
Yes shipping from summit was quite expensive, if i have to upgrade the rest of the valvetrain with the cam i cant afford to take that route.

c9zx: You mean i need like roller rockers? I think i cant afford going with a high lift cam :-/
What I'm saying is match all the components, don't try to run a .560 lift cam and 385 lbs open spring pressure with stock rockers and pushrods. You know what your budget is. Base your goals and parts selection around that. Given the stock 2V intake port stops flowing any more at about .420 there is no reason, in your application, to go much past .500 lift. Keep duration in the 212-216 @ .050 degree range. Given the nature of cleveland heads there is no reason to use a LSA less than 112 degrees, for this application. If you use headers, given the exhaust to intake flow ratios of the 2V heads, you do not need to run a lot, if any, exhaust duration or lift bias. Given the stock valve train you don't want to use a cam with real aggressive ramps. The older style cams are easier on valve train components than the more modern designs.

Someone may have mentioned the problems associated with the factory multi-groove valves. You should research the matter and decide if you want to replace the valves and locks. None of this is as easy and simple as many used to believe.

Chuck

P.S. Glad to see another Cougar guy on the site.

 
Yes shipping from summit was quite expensive, if i have to upgrade the rest of the valvetrain with the cam i cant afford to take that route.

c9zx: You mean i need like roller rockers? I think i cant afford going with a high lift cam :-/
What I'm saying is match all the components, don't try to run a .560 lift cam and 385 lbs open spring pressure with stock rockers and pushrods. You know what your budget is. Base your goals and parts selection around that. Given the stock 2V intake port stops flowing any more at about .420 there is no reason, in your application, to go much past .500 lift. Keep duration in the 212-216 @ .050 degree range. Given the nature of cleveland heads there is no reason to use a LSA less than 112 degrees, for this application. If you use headers, given the exhaust to intake flow ratios of the 2V heads, you do not need to run a lot, if any, exhaust duration or lift bias. Given the stock valve train you don't want to use a cam with real aggressive ramps. The older style cams are easier on valve train components than the more modern designs.

Someone may have mentioned the problems associated with the factory multi-groove valves. You should research the matter and decide if you want to replace the valves and locks. None of this is as easy and simple as many used to believe.

Chuck

P.S. Glad to see another Cougar guy on the site.
Then is this cam maybe not so bad after all?

Lift 505/505, Dur @0.50 219/219, lobe sep 114

The problem i have is, i need to buy so many more parts for this engine, just the oil pump+pickup and shaft, head bolts, gasket set and valley pan set me back about 425 dollars.

My total budget is maybe about 900 dollars including all those parts plus cam and everything around that.

Maybe a liiittle bit more.

So say about 475 dollars for cam, lifter, springs etc.

And one of those Elgin kits on ebay would cost me about 450 dollars delivered to my doorstep in sweden. And that is by far the cheapest option if i can find a good cam for my setup from them.

Buying a cam from summit, like one of the lunatis mentioned will set me back about 350 dollars with summits low buck lifters, and i couldnt even find valve springs or pushrods on their site.

A swedish dealer also sells lunati, but i could only find really big lift cams there.

And the edelbrock one again, about 280 dollars including shipping cost, but most people seem to think they are a bad choice and wont add noticeable performance at all.

I like lunati though, ran a lunati cam in my 455 olds i build couple of years back.

Oh, you also own a cougar? ?

 
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that cam will make your engine run but it needs stiffer springs, however, i wouldn't use that cam.

 
What specs would you recommend barnett?

Anyway, this was worse than i thought. I pulled the cam just now and as suspected some lobes were worn.

But even worse, the cam bearings are totally shot! Atleast no. 1, 2 and i think 3.

So i guess its engine pulling time... darn...

Because it isnt possible to replace cam bearings with the engine still in the car right?

 
Not normally, I would say. Bummer, Man.

Good luck with it! ::thumb::

 
Hey there ODmark I have a guy i used to deal with at B & M that does export service for high performance parts all over the world his business is called Malibu Export Service the owners name is Bruce and he is a hot rod guy that fills containers to ship all over the world so you never know he can help you get the cam in a container he might already had going to Sweden or know an in expensive way to get it there for you since thats his forte. http://www.malibuexport.com/

Bruce has lots of resources in the business so if your looking for anything he can usually find it for you.

Mike

 
What specs would you recommend barnett?

Anyway, this was worse than i thought. I pulled the cam just now and as suspected some lobes were worn.

But even worse, the cam bearings are totally shot! Atleast no. 1, 2 and i think 3.

So i guess its engine pulling time... darn...

Because it isnt possible to replace cam bearings with the engine still in the car right?
Your engine is probably full of metal from the worn lobes . The proper thing to do is disassemble it and clean everything first.

If you post a site that has cams in Sweden, we can see what might be good but we still need your gear ratio unless I missed it.

.

 
For a myriad of reasons, the camshaft bearings are nearly impossible to change with the engine still assembled and in the car. Unfortunately it needs to be pulled and stripped down for this procedure. I would also surmise that other issues remain to be unearthed inside your engine.

The cam bearings in my original engine were bad causing very odd oil pressure problems. Other indicators lead me to believe it had been overheated in its past. Bad enough to delaminate the lining off of the cam bearing steel backings.

 
For a myriad of reasons, the camshaft bearings are nearly impossible to change with the engine still assembled and in the car. Unfortunately it needs to be pulled and stripped down for this procedure. I would also surmise that other issues remain to be unearthed inside your engine.

The cam bearings in my original engine were bad causing very odd oil pressure problems. Other indicators lead me to believe it had been overheated in its past. Bad enough to delaminate the lining off of the cam bearing steel backings.
You mean something like this?: http://postimg.org/image/6omq5mvaz/

By closer inspection, the bearings are not as bad as i thought, although they are still scrap. At least the one in the front.

Also noticed that the oil pump shaft has snapped about one quarter of an inch up from the oil pump. Piece no.2 still missing...

MT91106: Thank you for the tip, gpnna check it out :D

 
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There's a good chance some of the debris from the lobes and bearings got into the oil pump, freezing and destroying it, break the shaft. As Barnett468 said, it's time for a rebuild.

 
Hej Odmark

Over here in England we have a company called Real Steel:

http://www.realsteel.co.uk/

Take a look at their Ford pages, they do quite a lot of Cleveland stuff. Prices are not bad. I think the British pound just went down in value so may help you a bit!

You would have to ring them to order, they don't support on-line ordering (how 1980s!).

Dunc

 
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