351c cam choice.

[MeZapU]

A good balanced Cleveland does not seem to mind the higher rpm's. Way back when I had a C6 I installed 3.50 gears in my car and found no ill effects vs the 2.75's. I did it when I had it in England and regularly did 75-80 mph on the motorways. I never once wished I still had the 2.75's still in it. The 2.75's were just way too tall for any practical use. 3.00's are not much better. If you are not for going on a power tour or knocking down mpg's, don't fear the gear.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I've been saying that having a peppy, well-running engine, 3.00 gears, and overdrive will have me expecting decent gas mileage with mine, and still have enough oomph for a burn-out now and then.

So far, the burn-out aspect seems to be no big deal (as evidenced by the donuts in front of my house after unloading from the paint shop), and the efficiency is only going to get better with the fuel injection.

Fuel mileage is somewhat important to me because we're fairly isolated out here in West Texas. 90 miles is about the shortest distance to go without being raped at the pump with a 10%+ cost increase the tiniest 'bergs seem to get away with because of not having anywhere else to go when you need to fuel up.

With gas prices right now, that's not such a big deal... but we all know how things can change on that front.

Besides, I told my wife after it's all said and done, it should get better gas mileage than my Ram. Which actually, won't be too hard to beat - it gets around 14 in town... and 19-ish on the open road. :shootself:

 

[vozaday]

A good balanced Cleveland does not seem to mind the higher rpm's. Way back when I had a C6 I installed 3.50 gears in my car and found no ill effects vs the 2.75's. I did it when I had it in England and regularly did 75-80 mph on the motorways. I never once wished I still had the 2.75's still in it. The 2.75's were just way too tall for any practical use. 3.00's are not much better. If you are not for going on a power tour or knocking down mpg's, don't fear the gear.

Ive had mine up to 7000rpm, just to test for valve float, so you are correct in that lol. I live about 200 miles from any city so I just use it to burn around town anyways, it gets trailered if it is going any further. I may look into a gear swap. Thanks

I've been saying that having a peppy, well-running engine, 3.00 gears, and overdrive will have me expecting decent gas mileage with mine, and still have enough oomph for a burn-out now and then.

So far, the burn-out aspect seems to be no big deal (as evidenced by the donuts in front of my house after unloading from the paint shop), and the efficiency is only going to get better with the fuel injection.

Fuel mileage is somewhat important to me because we're fairly isolated out here in West Texas. 90 miles is about the shortest distance to go without being raped at the pump with a 10%+ cost increase the tiniest 'bergs seem to get away with because of not having anywhere else to go when you need to fuel up.

With gas prices right now, that's not such a big deal... but we all know how things can change on that front.

Besides, I told my wife after it's all said and done, it should get better gas mileage than my Ram. Which actually, won't be too hard to beat - it gets around 14 in town... and 19-ish on the open road. :shootself:

I know I need to do something, pretty sure my tuned ecoboost would kill my mustang at this point, thats unacceptable. haha

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

7000 rpm's indicated on a stock ford tach is not likely 7000 rpm's in actuality. The Ford Tach in our cars is fairly inaccurate on the top end. Unless you have a fairly modified valvetrain, it is unlikely you will get past about 6300 rpm without valve float. Those big valves are HEAVY!

 

[vozaday]

7000 rpm's indicated on a stock ford tach is not likely 7000 rpm's in actuality. The Ford Tach in our cars is fairly inaccurate on the top end. Unless you have a fairly modified valvetrain, it is unlikely you will get past about 6300 rpm without valve float. Those big valves are HEAVY!

Aftermarket tach and full roller valve train. But I have no proof of that pull, nor do I want to do it again. I had a belt blow off during the pull, thought I had grenaded the engine.

 

[Stanglover]

Again nice job vozaday, lookin good!

You mention moving on to the suspension next. When I joined 7173Mustangs forum, I was working on and having troubles with my suspension up-grade, As you are in Alberta, you can get all you need (or most of it) from The Mustang Shop in Calgary, if you haven't already found them. However, for my Mach 1, I found that the springs sold in their Scott Drake kit were incorrect and sat the front way too high. I ended up putting my original springs back in as they were still good. You might check with Eaton Detroit Springs and they will give you the exact original spec front and rear springs for your car with the equipment it has on it. I don't have the number at hand, best to Google it. I put the 1 1/8th front and 7/8th rear anti-sway bars and man, it goes round corners like it was meant too.

Geoff.

 

[MT91106]

The cam depends on you and what you are going to use it for. Mine is bored .030 over because it sucked a valve and ate a piston so was young and said "F" it and built it with forged pistons, did some head work to repair the valve that came apart and put in an ISKY Super Mega Cam 510/280 on a 108 center line so it lopes like a bitch. However with the two chamber flow masters on it with no tail pipes its has a monster sound. So figure what your going to do with it then chose the cam thats right for you.

Hello! Im starting a new thread for this subject.

Im looking at cam choices since i need to replace the one in my cleveland.

Since im not so good on cams i would need some help.

First i would like to know about the cam provided in this rebuild kit: http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=151254330507&alt=web

The info provided is this: "NEW camshaft Street Class II - VALVE LIFT: .512/.538; DUR @ .050": 214/224; LOBE C/L 112"

How good is this as a street cam? Compared to my other choice, wich is the edelbrock performer cam.

Duration at 0.006" Lift: Intake: 282° Exhaust: 292°

Duration at 0.050" Lift: Intake: 204° Exhaust: 214°

Lift at Cam: Intake: 0.280" Exhaust: 0.295"

Lift at Valve: Intake: 0.484" Exhaust: 0.510"

Timing at 0.050" lift: Open Close

Intake: 5° ATDC 29° ABDC

Exhaust: 44° BBDC 10° BTDC

Centerlines: Lobe Separation - 112° Intake Centerline - 107°

Thank you in advance

I agree that fuel efficiency can be important however to me this car is a Hot Rod not a POS Prius that you want to drive across the country so i figure if i am going to drive it i am going to just pay for it. I am sure alot of the guys here feel the same way but feel you in the fact that you can run a larger gear with an overdrive and still get pretty decent fuel economy. Mine has a huge cam, lots of split overlap being a 108 center line and only a B&M C6 in in with a 4:10 rear gear so it will make you cry if you stand behind it while its running. Thought about putting a gear vendors unit in it and making it a 6 speed but its just a thought.

I've been saying that having a peppy, well-running engine, 3.00 gears, and overdrive will have me expecting decent gas mileage with mine, and still have enough oomph for a burn-out now and then.

So far, the burn-out aspect seems to be no big deal (as evidenced by the donuts in front of my house after unloading from the paint shop), and the efficiency is only going to get better with the fuel injection.

Fuel mileage is somewhat important to me because we're fairly isolated out here in West Texas. 90 miles is about the shortest distance to go without being raped at the pump with a 10%+ cost increase the tiniest 'bergs seem to get away with because of not having anywhere else to go when you need to fuel up.

With gas prices right now, that's not such a big deal... but we all know how things can change on that front.

Besides, I told my wife after it's all said and done, it should get better gas mileage than my Ram. Which actually, won't be too hard to beat - it gets around 14 in town... and 19-ish on the open road. :shootself:

 

[Mister 4x4]

Well, actually... her family is all pretty much back East in VA and SC... and they're all car nuts. So, taking a road trip from West Texas is not out of the question.

No, fuel mileage is not why I bought this car. In fact, I don't really factor in fuel mileage beyond getting the best I can with what I have. What I have is a gas-thirsty dinosaur from the Musclezoic Era - expectations of econo-box numbers have never been reality. I also have a Ram 1500 that gets 14-ish, along with my old Jeep that gets somewhere around 6mpg because of lift, lockers and 600lbs of unsprung weight in the form of TSX Swampers on steel wheels. :whistling:

I actually sold my 40+mpg Honda Civic VX when I bought my Mustang because it just wasn't cool anymore. Conversely, her '01 Grand Prix gets over 30mpg on the highway when we take it on a road trip.

 

[MT91106]

exactly that's what i am talking about its with the fuel cost for the Cool factor any day of the week (spoken like a true gear head ). I drive my 09 GMC Sierra in the snow and long drives.

 

[barnett468]

Ive had mine up to 7000rpm, just to test for valve float,

::thumb::

 

[Odmark]

Okay so this is what i got.

Stock bottom end (i think), flat top pistons, std 2v heads, alu intake, 600cfm edelbrock carb, stock manifolds and dual 2 1/2 inch exhaust with 2 mufflers.

Im going for headers later on so might just have that in mind when deciding.

I want a good streetable but mean cam, good for daily use and some traffic light racing.

Dont mind rough idling.

I have a budget of about 480 dollars including shipping charges, if i cant find the cam in sweden.

 

[Mikes73]

I like my comp 280 magnum with .512"/.512" lift. It has good vacuum with a mean sounding idle that pulls hard in the mid range and top end. Butt my car runs like crap thoughlollerz

 

[Mikes73]

I like my comp 280 magnum with .512"/.512" lift. It has good vacuum with a mean sounding idle that pulls hard in the mid range and top end. But my car runs like crap thoughlollerz

 

[Odmark]

I like my comp 280 magnum with .512"/.512" lift. It has good vacuum with a mean sounding idle that pulls hard in the mid range and top end. But my car runs like crap thoughlollerz

Does it run crap because of the cam or some other reason? :chin:

A lunati cam would be nice, because then there is a good chance i can get it in sweden and dont have to import it.

Other than that my only choice if i want it fast is the edelbrock performer cam wich is actually in stock at a dealer in my town!

 

[barnett468]

Okay so this is what i got.

Stock bottom end (i think), flat top pistons, std 2v heads, alu intake, 600cfm edelbrock carb, stock manifolds and dual 2 1/2 inch exhaust with 2 mufflers.

Im going for headers later on so might just have that in mind when deciding.

I want a good streetable but mean cam, good for daily use and some traffic light racing.

Dont mind rough idling.

I have a budget of about 480 dollars including shipping charges, if i cant find the cam in sweden.

this is the biggest cam you can use with 2.80 and 3.00 gears.

you should also have at least 9.5 compression.

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=4679&gid=289

you can buy cams and parts direct from summit racing . they will ship

.

 

[Odmark]

Okay so this is what i got.

Stock bottom end (i think), flat top pistons, std 2v heads, alu intake, 600cfm edelbrock carb, stock manifolds and dual 2 1/2 inch exhaust with 2 mufflers.

Im going for headers later on so might just have that in mind when deciding.

I want a good streetable but mean cam, good for daily use and some traffic light racing.

Dont mind rough idling.

I have a budget of about 480 dollars including shipping charges, if i cant find the cam in sweden.

this is the biggest cam you can use with 2.80 and 3.00 gears.

you should also have at least 9.5 compression.

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=4679&gid=289

you can buy cams and parts direct from summit racing . they will ship

.

That is well over my budget though, 480 bucks is about max i can spend on a cam right now. :-/

And yes summit will ship but it is quite expensive with shipping cost and import charges.

 

[Odmark]

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=170885050219&alt=web what do you think about this kit?

Lift 505/505, Dur @0.50 219/219, lobe sep 114.

Dual roller timing chain, new valve springs, lifters, gasket set included.

About 450 bucks, delivery to my doorstep in sweden.

 

[vozaday]

If you can save up for it. Go with the roller retrofit. I read someplace that going to a roller cam and roller rockers frees up 20-30hp. Then the gains from the cam on top of this. I had a mild cam in my car before doing the retrofit and still my new cam isn't all that agressive, but wow did it make a difference.

 

[barnett468]

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=170885050219&alt=web what do you think about this kit?

Lift 505/505, Dur @0.50 219/219, lobe sep 114.

Dual roller timing chain, new valve springs, lifters, gasket set included.

About 450 bucks, delivery to my doorstep in sweden.

i think thats a horrible cam for your app and you havent told us your gear ratio is . buy a comp xe256 or xe262 or lunati voodoo 256 or 262 flat tappet cam and crne lifters or crower cam oiler lifters.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-10320701

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1621&gid=287

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-10320702

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1622&gid=287

 

[Mikes73]

I like my comp 280 magnum with .512"/.512" lift. It has good vacuum with a mean sounding idle that pulls hard in the mid range and top end. But my car runs like crap thoughlollerz

Does it run crap because of the cam or some other reason? :chin:

A lunati cam would be nice, because then there is a good chance i can get it in sweden and dont have to import it.

Other than that my only choice if i want it fast is the edelbrock performer cam wich is actually in stock at a dealer in my town!

It runs awesome, this was my attempt at humor because edelbrock 600 carbs get such a bad rap. The comp cam works excellent with my combo. Sorry for the confusion.

P.S. my car doesn't feel over cammed at all with the comp 280 magnum. I am running the stock torque convertor, it has 3.50 gears in it now but it ran fine with the 2.75 ratio as well. I don't think you will be happy with those baby cams mentioned earlier in this thread.