3rd member install recommendations

[MooseStang]

I dropped off my 3rd member today for its rebuild, so now it's time to prep for its return.

Are there any step by step tutorials?  I mean I know the process,  but I would like details like gasket or sealant, what parts can or should not be reused, stuff like that. 

 

[Don C]

Step-by-step installation instructions can be found in volume one of the shop manual, section 4 of Chapter 15-10.

You can use The Right Stuff gasket maker in lieu of a regular gasket:

Permatex® the Right Stuff® Gasket Maker – BLACK – Permatex

 

[Sheriff41]

It's pretty straight forward.  Clean the housing out as best you can.  If you have welding skills you could weld in a drain bung.  You'll probably want to change the gear oil after 500 to 1,000 miles and the drain will make the job easier.  The gasket maker Don mentioned is used on all the newer cars, just be sure to follow the directions closely.

 

[midlife]

When I did my 66, it leaked like an SOB despite the proper gasket and crust washers.  Turned out the housing was very warped, and I needed a very thick gasket indeed.  While your 3rd member is out, check for trueness across the housing opening.  And clean, clean, clean the housing!

 

[Bill73Ragtop]

You should include a supply of new copper washers for the stud nuts.   Also, get a friend to help lift the unit into position.

 

[MooseStang]

In regards to lifting back into place, I'll be solo.   Has anyone every tried using a "cradle" to lift?  I was thinking to build something out of wood to support the front and back, set that on a jack to get it up into position.

 

[Sheriff41]

I've used a floor jack to lift the chunk up while I steady it. Kinda tricky using one leg to operate the jack, though!  Once in position you'll need to get it straight on the studs to slide it home. 

 

[Galucha]

Funny enough I'm actually doing the same job today and am wondering the same. Didn't wanna hassle with dropping the housing, so I'll have to find a way to lift it up solo as well

 

[Don C]

Easy enough to build an adapter for your floor jack:

"Whatdidja make?" | Page 4 | Hot Rod Forum (hotrodders.com)

Or buy one $$$$

 

[MooseStang]

Maybe if you have a welder (which I don't).  I'll have to go the wood way. Maybe I can rigged some tie-downs to keep it balanced.  If and when I figure it out, I'll post some pics.    Won't be till sometime next week though.

 

[Don C]

A transmission jack adapter will also work, for not a lot of money

JEGS W41044: Floor Jack Transmission Adapter - JEGS High Performance

 

[tony-muscle]

I've used a floor jack to lift the chunk up while I steady it. Kinda tricky using one leg to operate the jack, though!  Once in position you'll need to get it straight on the studs to slide it home. 

Exactly. I have done it with a floor jack and leg operation a few times. I have always placed wood blocks around the floor jack and keep my face away in case it slides out. However, if you have a jack with a big flat base, or just make one, and the use of your hands to steady it, it should work.

 

[Galucha]

I ended up affixing an old flex plate on the floor jack, and the setting the chunk on top of it to lift it into position. Worked pretty good.

 

[MooseStang]

Got my 3rd member back from the gear shop today.   New Strange 3.25 gearset, trackloc clutch plates, bearing.  Suggest non-synthetic and change at 500 miles.  Also suggested RTV (no gasket).  He also said that with the RTV there was no need for the copper washers (only needed when using a gasket).  He also suggested to drill and tap a drain plug.

So, now I need to confirm my yoke size and order new u joints.   

Also need axle bearing and seals (should have done that earlier).   Or could/should I hold off until the 500 mi change?

 

[Sheriff41]

Got my 3rd member back from the gear shop today.   New Strange 3.25 gearset, trackloc clutch plates, bearing.  Suggest non-synthetic and change at 500 miles.  Also suggested RTV (no gasket).  He also said that with the RTV there was no need for the copper washers (only needed when using a gasket).  He also suggested to drill and tap a drain plug.

So, now I need to confirm my yoke size and order new u joints.   

Also need axle bearing and seals (should have done that earlier).   Or could/should I hold off until the 500 mi change?

Congrats!  Did your builder say anything about adding friction modifier to the gear oil?  The clutches need that.

I'd recommend changing the bearings and seals now.  Swab out the axle tubes to get any old debris out of them so it doesn't contaminate your new parts.  I buy several cans of brake clean and spray the axle tubes.  An old bed sheet you can tear into swabs, and a broom handle to push them through the housing works well.  Spray, swab, spray and swab usually does the job.

If you drill and tap, use a 1/4" NPT or 3/8" NPT plug.  Use a thread sealer (Permatex No. 2 non-hardening) or thread tape on the plug's threads.  A weld-on bung would be better, though.

 

[Bentworker]

Also - If there is a home beer brewing supply place near you carboy cleaning brushes work well to clean out the housing tubes.

 

[MooseStang]

He suggested first to run a magnet through the tubes, then use a piece of pvc pipe with rags and brake cleaner.  Yes, he did remind me about the additive.  I'll probably go back there and get my bearings pressed on, unless I can find someplace closer and maybe cheaper.  He quoted me $30 per axle,  not sure if that covers parts,  probably not. 

I may have just found another issue though.  There's a chip out of the outer edge of my front slip.  How bad does this look?

 

[Kilgon]

If it were mine I would replace it.  You don't know if there is more damage than what you can see plus the damage it could cause if it was to fail. You can pick up a  new one for around $100.  I think the money would be well spent.  It's what I call one of those "Insurance Policies" pieces.  

 

[Hemikiller]

I'd replace that yoke as well. 

FWIW, take a trip to Harbor Freight, or check various for sale listings and get your own shop press to do the bearings yourself. $60 is almost halfway to a new 12 ton unit, which is more than enough for home use. 

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html