Off the shelf 3rd member that drops into our cars?

[Ron Tanzi]

$475 in 1997 dollars is $897 in 2023 dollars. Thats not too far off from some of the prices I'm seeing as I'm shopping around. Even including some limited slip ones.

Yes, I realize that. I was making about $600 a week working 2 jobs back then. Back when I was young and could actually manage working 2 jobs. That ship has sailed. Lol.

 

[giantpune]

Yes, I realize that. I was making about $600 a week working 2 jobs back then. Back when I was young and could actually manage working 2 jobs. That ship has sailed. Lol.

Back when I paid $600 for my mach1 and $400 for the 72 fastback beside it for a parts car. And you could scrape up change off the floorboard of the car and get enough gas to move the needle on your gas gauge.

Now a rear end is gonna cost me more than those 2 cars.

 

[Sheriff41]

I went with the TrueTrac but in hindsight I don't think it was worth the added expense over the Traction-Lok clutch type LSD. Considering how the original Traction-Lok served me well and trouble-free for 45 years, I think rebuilding it with new clutches and spider gears would have been the way to go. I'd go with the REM finish on the gear set with the money saved.

 

[Ron Tanzi]

Back when I paid $600 for my mach1 and $400 for the 72 fastback beside it for a parts car. And you could scrape up change off the floorboard of the car and get enough gas to move the needle on your gas gauge.

Now a rear end is gonna cost me more than those 2 cars.

It is true. I am glad I hoarded a bunch new and used parts, especially NOS parts before the World went crazy.

 

[mrgmhale]

How’s the 3.50 with the AOD? That’s what I’m working on building now

We also have an aod with a 3.5:1 TractionLok rear axle gear set. We love it. Best of both worlds. Great off the line performance and a nice cruising speed at lower rpm. Plus, with our 351 being built for street/strip we have the torque to overcome wind resistance at higher speeds. Our 73 Mach 1 is really nicely balanced with torque and gearing.

 

[giantpune]

Bearings: TIMKEN RW207CCRA
Seals: NATIONAL 9569S

There are the parts that came in. They don't look like the one's I'm seeing online of people replacing axle seals and bearings on a ford 9".
The bearing is a 1 piece design instead of a separate conical caged bearing and race. And my seal looks smaller than the bearing. Do these parts look correct to you guys? I haven't pulled my rear axle apart yet.



This is what I was expecting to see.

 

[Sheriff41]

Those are the ones. The axle bearings are enclosed bearing (bearing and race as a unit) and are pressed-on the axle and held in place with the bearing retainer.
You cut the old bearing off with a die-grinder and cut-off wheel, or you can use a hammer and chisel, just be careful not to cut into the axle. I cut most of the way through with the grinder then split the retainer and race with a chisel.
I press the new bearing and retainer on using a press and the old split retainer. You can do this using a hammer and a piece of pipe that fits over the axle, finishing with a drift and hammer. Freeze the bearing and retainer before installing and they will go on easier. Word of caution: Be sure to reinstall the axle flange before the bearing and retainer.

 

[Hemikiller]

The one in the video is the later Big Ford end. The parts you have are correct.

 

[Sheriff41]

Here's what you're looking at. The seal goes in the axle tube inside where the bearing fits.

 

[giantpune]

The one in the video is the later Big Ford end. The parts you have are correct.

View attachment 76895

Does this guy look like the correct flange gasket? https://www.autozone.com/gaskets/ax...al-axle-shaft-flange-gasket-j26095/136298_0_0

If I understand correctly, there's 4 of them per car. Each side has the paper gasket between the axle housing and the drum brake plate, and then another one between the drum brake plate and the axle retainer?

 

[Bentworker]

Does this guy look like the correct flange gasket? https://www.autozone.com/gaskets/ax...al-axle-shaft-flange-gasket-j26095/136298_0_0

If I understand correctly, there's 4 of them per car. Each side has the paper gasket between the axle housing and the drum brake plate, and then another one between the drum brake plate and the axle retainer?

No flange gaskets used. When you are running a sealed bearing with a seal inside the axle tube no oil is getting out to the flange.

 

[Hemikiller]

Does this guy look like the correct flange gasket? https://www.autozone.com/gaskets/ax...al-axle-shaft-flange-gasket-j26095/136298_0_0

If I understand correctly, there's 4 of them per car. Each side has the paper gasket between the axle housing and the drum brake plate, and then another one between the drum brake plate and the axle retainer?

Those look correct, and yes, 4 per car.

 

[Ron Tanzi]

There are the parts that came in. They don't look like the one's I'm seeing online of people replacing axle seals and bearings on a ford 9".
The bearing is a 1 piece design instead of a separate conical caged bearing and race. And my seal looks smaller than the bearing. Do these parts look correct to you guys? I haven't pulled my rear axle apart yet.

View attachment 76894

This is what I was expecting to see.

Yes.

 

[Bentworker]

Ok- the whole flange gasket subject has me thinking. The gasket does not seal anything- but it does control how much endplay the axle shaft has. If you had a dial indicator and installed both gaskets it would be interesting to see how far you can move the axle shaft in and out of the housing. On my car I have mustang Steve’s disk brake kit which required no gaskets and no powdercoat/ paint on the housing flange / disk brake bracket to get the endplay right. Your results may vary- but it might be worth measuring with them installed and without.

 

[Marks1]

WES-T is an open diff 2-pinion 28 spline 9". The yoke on yours is a "tall" 1310 series yoke, used in pretty much all 71-73 351 powered Mustangs except for the highest performance cars.

Alan Van Aunen owns and runs 8and9inchfordrears. The guy knows his stuff, and will be getting my next diff order. He builds the rears personally, not some guy who works for a company.

https://8and9inchfordrears.com/
He also has an eBay store so you can see what the pricing and options are. He quoted me prices below that on the eBay listings a couple months ago.

https://www.ebay.com/usr/av1141

Last night on HemiKillers advice I ordered my new third member from Alan at 8and 9 inch Ford rear ends. Just as Hemi said, Alan was fantastic, actually having two long conversations with me, one on Wednesday night and one last night.
So I’ve been thinking about what gear ratio I was going to change to for quite some time. Our 72 Vert is an original 351 two barrel H code with the original 3 speed toploader manual. It has the original standard 275 open rear. I acquired a very nice 70/71 RUG-AV1 wide ratio 4-speed Toploader out of a 71 Mach 1 recently. I also have acquired an absolutely gorgeous set of Vintique Magnum 500s from a guy selling them on Facebook marketplace they are 15 X 8 for the front and 15 X10 for the rear. I want to fill the wheel well and get the look I had on my Sportsroof back in the day when I was running my Keystone Classics with L60/15‘s, so I’m pretty sure I’m gonna be running somewhere between 275/60x15s, and 295/50x15s with my ideal choice being 285/55/15, which no one makes unfortunately. The problem is I want to match the brand and type of the rear tires with the front tires, and so it limits your choices in front and rear tire sizes. Currently the guy I bought the magnums from threw in a set of very nice Mickey Thompson Sportsman front tires, which are only a couple years old and sized at 225/70x15, and an extra 15 X 8 Magnum 500 that has a slight defect in it, for only 50 bucks! Mickey Thompson only makes a 275, 60,15 or a 295/50 X 15, so I’m not sure I’m going to use those tires yet yet. I need to do some more shopping. Anyway, the point of all this is is that I decided on the 350 to 1 ratio after all the calculations and figuring that I’m going to end up with around the 28 inch tall tire. It should run right around three grand at 70 on the highway according to Alan’s and my calculations. if it ends up being that we are on the highway more than I think we will be, I’ll probably try to find a five speed for the car eventually. The point of all this is thanks HemiKiller for the reference to Alan, he was just as fantastic to deal with as you said he was.

 

[Marks1]

So I'm finally getting around to letting you all know I got my third member from Alan at 8and9 inch Ford rear ends. Alan sent it right after the fourth of July as he said he would. I haven't installed it yet, but as I said to him, if it runs as good as it looks, I'm going to be a happy camper. Meanwhile our new Mickey Thompsons came in, and I had them mounted and balanced, they look so freakin cool, at least to me they do, LOL.

 

[Retired2014]

Do you need a set of M/T finned aluminum valve covers for your engine too? I have a set for a 351C.

 

[Sheriff41]

So I'm finally getting around to letting you all know I got my third member from Alan at 8and9 inch Ford rear ends. Alan sent it right after the fourth of July as he said he would. I haven't installed it yet, but as I said to him, if it runs as good as it looks, I'm going to be a happy camper. Meanwhile our new Mickey Thompsons came in, and I had them mounted and balanced, they look so freakin cool, at least to me they do, LOL.

Lookin' good! Soon it'll have the go to match the show!

 

[Marks1]

Do you need a set of M/T finned aluminum valve covers for your engine too? I have a set for a 351C.

Can you send me a PM with some pics? I am a fan of M/T valve covers for sure.

 

[Marks1]

Lookin' good! Soon it'll have the go to match the show!

Thanks Chuck !!