73 alignment saga

[Muswagon]

Oh boy, I have definately jacked the car up from the crossmember, I am sure I am not the only one Thx for the input, the frame is where I shall start.

 

[mjlan]

I think maybe you are onto something with the ride heights or stance, but checking the frame for true would definitely eliminate that as a source of any issues.

If your rear ride height is higher than stock and the front springs have sagged at all (lowering the front ride height) it would affect the relationship of the front upper and lower ball joints relative to the rest of the car, possibly affecting the front end geometry.

Got any pictures of the car sitting on level ground?

 

[Muswagon]

Here is a pic. This is before it went to any shop. You can see how far back the drivers side wheel is back toward the door, as mentioned I think the drivers side is source of my issues.

 

[rocket366]

Wow something is way out

the wheel should be centered in the fender wheel arch.

Can you take a measurement from the grease fitting on the lower

ball joint to both sides of the radiator support where the SR bushing resides?

I can measure my car and compare.

The rake of the car will have an effect on the caster as will

a full tank of gas but not much.

Paul

 

[Don C]

I'm guessing that the strut rod cross member/lower radiator support is the problem and is too far back. A better place to take the measurements may be from the rear axle spring centering bolt to the grease fitting and to the strut rod bushing mounting tab.

 

[mjlan]

First, your car looks great!

Second, I would agree- the wheel does look too far rearward.

I would also check the upper control arm mounting bolts on that side. Sometimes techs would put shims under the mounting bolts to change the alignment as this was how the camber/caster was set on early cars without the LCA eccentric bolts.

Let us know what you find out!

 

[Hemikiller]

I would also check the upper control arm mounting bolts on that side. Sometimes techs would put shims under the mounting bolts to change the alignment as this was how the camber/caster was set on early cars without the LCA eccentric bolts.

Definitely check this! The UCA shaft should be tight against the shock tower. You can tell if something is amiss just by looking down at the studs protruding through the tower, if one side has more thread sticking out, jack it up and see what's in there.

Also, check to see if there is any accident damage on that side. Usual evidence is strange wrinkling in the fender aprons, body bolts that don't line up or have had their mounting holes modified.

 

[Ron Tanzi]

Appreciate the part number, for $15 I am crazy not to try.

Anyone care to weigh in on the steering box question?

On toe in vs toe out. At both alignment shops, the way the heads that clamp to the wheels work, no actual measurement is taken. When I measure on the ground, only measuring 1/3 of the way up the tire I am showing .25 inch toe out which would more than explain the cars desire to injure me. When I stand looking down at each front fender at the front wheels, there is definately toe out, even accounting for the fenders tapering in as you head toward the car.

Is there a translation difference between actual measurements on old cars vs new equipment??

Sorry I am just replying to this. It did not show up on my main page. On my 72 Mach 1 I run 1/8" toe per factory spec. But I run 1/2* negative camber and + 2.0* caster this is set before setting toe.

 

[mjlan]

Muswagon- any updates? I'm curious if you've found anything...

 

[Muswagon]

Just drove the car for the first time with the new steering box. Holy wow. Night and day. Even though both shops said everything else was tight, it was not, draglink was on the loose side.

It drives amazing. It could use to correct faster, which I am sure is the negative 2 caster, but its barely noticeable.

Stroke of luck on the box. They said they sent me a 6539 Atsco, which is the lazy 4 turn low ratio box. That is not the case. When I installed and clocked the new pitman arm (they are on sale for $34 at MustangsUnlimited I should add!) it was 3 turns lock to lock. In the car, any quick movement is violent which must mean it is the fast ratio that everyone wants. Point being, I have no idea what they actually sent me but its awesome.

New issue, small one. The header rests on the lip/flange on the input side of the box, so the steering column is getting battered on idle and vibrates driving.

Do I/can I bend that flange slightly down to clear, or should I crow bar the header?

 

[Muswagon]

Any thoughts on the flange? It is not touching the box itself, just the flange that I think twists off to access the input shaft. Can I bend an ear back to clear?

 

[rocket366]

The flange you speak of is possibly the locking ring for the input shaft?

If so I wouldnt bend it but you could trim it for clearance

 

[Muswagon]

I never turn down an excuse to use a zip disc! Yes, its the locking ring. Wasn't sure what to call it. Appreciate the info