AC delete question

[73' mach 1]

My car was a factory AC car. with doing up the car the way I want I don't EVER use AC while driving this car. In keeping everything clean for my EFI 408c what all do I have to do to make the car ok to run with removing the AC stuff. I'll get getting a serpentine kit that would have the AC delete pully. Other than that would I have to do anything else where? Thanks

 

[Hemikiller]

If you're spending the money on pulleys, you can just get a set designed for P/S and alternator only. The factory AC compressor runs on a separate belt anyway.

 

[73' mach 1]

If you're spending the money on pulleys, you can just get a set designed for P/S and alternator only. The factory AC compressor runs on a separate belt anyway.

Correct. That was my plan but I was wondering if there was anything else at the firewall or elsewhere that would need correction. I didn't want to put out the money for all new AC components if I'm never going to use it.

 

[B229218]

If you're spending the money on pulleys, you can just get a set designed for P/S and alternator only. The factory AC compressor runs on a separate belt anyway.

Correct. That was my plan but I was wondering if there was anything else at the firewall or elsewhere that would need correction. I didn't want to put out the money for all new AC components if I'm never going to use it.

If u still want a heater, then just plug up the a/c evap. at firewall. If no heater and max weight savings, pull the whole heater/a/c box fron under dash and silicone a block off plate for inside cowl/firewall holes.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Depending on how clean you want the firewall to look other things might need to change. 

The firewall is different in a couple ways for AC and non AC cars. Let me try to list each.

AC CARS HAVE:

Keyhole shaped cut out for heater core connection to come out.

Hole for connection to evaporator in heater box. 

Controls for heat / AC in center are different. More vacuum connections.

No opening in cowl on drivers side only passenger.

NON AC CARS HAVE:

Only round pierced holes for the heater core connections.

Helmet shaped dome under the R.F. fender behind the splash shield. This clears the blower motor on the heater box. Not on AC cars. Would have to add if you change the heater box to non AC.

Fresh air vent and control on passenger side.

Fresh air vent hole in cowl and control on the drivers side.

Different center controls for the heater. 

It just depends on how clean you want to keep it. You for sure need some kind of heat fresh air and defrost to keep the windshield clear. 

Lost all my pics of the differences so cannot post them.

 

[mikeyhunts]

If you're spending the money on pulleys, you can just get a set designed for P/S and alternator only. The factory AC compressor runs on a separate belt anyway.

Correct. That was my plan but I was wondering if there was anything else at the firewall or elsewhere that would need correction. I didn't want to put out the money for all new AC components if I'm never going to use it.

If u still want a heater, then just plug up the a/c evap. at firewall. If no heater and max weight savings, pull the whole heater/a/c box fron under dash and silicone a block off plate for inside cowl/firewall holes.

This is what I did.

Made a custom plate.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[73' mach 1]

If I can get away with plugging the a/c evap at the firewall I might just do that. Like I was saying I just cant bring myself to buy all new AC components knowing I'll never use it. It would be factory stuff anyway. Shes a restomod.