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Parts Wanted Ammeter Junction Block

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Joined
Oct 12, 2022
Messages
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Location
98388
My Car
73 Mach I - Ram Air - 351C - FMX
Still new to this so I hope I'm putting this in the right place I need a ammeter junction block for my MACH I.
Mine disintegrated when trying to remove the wires from it.
 

Attachments

  • Ammeter Junction Block.jpg
    Ammeter Junction Block.jpg
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I should have on here. Let me take a look
 
Last edited:
Hello, Mach 1 Pony
The problem with most of the used junction blocks you'll find will be the same as yours, age and crumbling. The newest production installed on the '71-3 Mustangs is now 50 years old. They were utilized through '79 on various car lines and through the early '80's on a few E, F, and U (Bronco) series trucks, still in the 40+-year-old range.
The part number is D0SZ-14448-A (Motorcraft DY-91), and they show up on eBay occasionally. But, the seller will always mention that it also fits the '69-70 Shelby Mustangs. Same as when looking for '71-73 parts, and the seller is adamant about mentioning "Fits Boss 351" regardless of whether the parts were ever used on Boss Mustangs. The NOS versions I've seen are $99.00 + shipping! No realistic prices when mentioning Shelby or Boss.

The E-bay auction Sheriff41 provided the link for is one possibility. The F4HZ-14A303-H is a repair kit Ford released for '87-92 medium-duty trucks with 6.6 and 7.8-liter 6-cylinder diesel engines. This kit replaced the wiring from the power distribution box to the starter with a more robust design for extreme-duty service. The yellow junction block included has the same base dimensions as the black D0SZ version. The difference is that the D0SZ black version stud size is 10-24, and the yellow block D3TZ-14448-A (Motorcraft Dy-141) is 1/4 X 20.
The 29.99 price is also reasonable, considering the F4HZ kit retails for $137.78! The last retail price I saw on the individual blocks before discontinued was in the $35-40 range.
The block with the dual walls is correct for the '71-3 Mustangs. And as Sheriff suggested, if you choose to use the F4HZ kit, you can always paint the block black if you desire the period-correct look.
If you don't want to use a new junction block and no one here has a used one in good condition, try Mike @Motor City Mustang. He is a forum member/supporter, has parts cars, and has pulled rabbits out of his hat for many members here.
1689905919092.png
 
Hello, Mach 1 Pony
The problem with most of the used junction blocks you'll find will be the same as yours, age and crumbling. The newest production installed on the '71-3 Mustangs is now 50 years old. They were utilized through '79 on various car lines and through the early '80's on a few E, F, and U (Bronco) series trucks, still in the 40+-year-old range.
The part number is D0SZ-14448-A (Motorcraft DY-91), and they show up on eBay occasionally. But, the seller will always mention that it also fits the '69-70 Shelby Mustangs. Same as when looking for '71-73 parts, and the seller is adamant about mentioning "Fits Boss 351" regardless of whether the parts were ever used on Boss Mustangs. The NOS versions I've seen are $99.00 + shipping! No realistic prices when mentioning Shelby or Boss.

The E-bay auction Sheriff41 provided the link for is one possibility. The F4HZ-14A303-H is a repair kit Ford released for '87-92 medium-duty trucks with 6.6 and 7.8-liter 6-cylinder diesel engines. This kit replaced the wiring from the power distribution box to the starter with a more robust design for extreme-duty service. The yellow junction block included has the same base dimensions as the black D0SZ version. The difference is that the D0SZ black version stud size is 10-24, and the yellow block D3TZ-14448-A (Motorcraft Dy-141) is 1/4 X 20.
The 29.99 price is also reasonable, considering the F4HZ kit retails for $137.78! The last retail price I saw on the individual blocks before discontinued was in the $35-40 range.
The block with the dual walls is correct for the '71-3 Mustangs. And as Sheriff suggested, if you choose to use the F4HZ kit, you can always paint the block black if you desire the period-correct look.
If you don't want to use a new junction block and no one here has a used one in good condition, try Mike @Motor City Mustang. He is a forum member/supporter, has parts cars, and has pulled rabbits out of his hat for many members here.
View attachment 79194
Excellent info! So excellent that I am going to ace it as part of my little library. Many thanks for sharing!
 
You guys are awesome. Thanks Secluff & Sheriff41 for the information! I’ve been reluctant to take the wires off my existing block because it’s heavily rusted on the post and expect it will crumble with more force. I just ordered the eBay part you identified and looking forward to finally addressing this eyesore thanks to this thread.
Bob
 
Thank you to all who responded to my Ammeter Junction Block inquirtery. After much thought on the subject I've decided to go with the Yellow one idea. The main thing that swayed me was the fact that any I would be purchasing the same 50 years of age and most likely in the same condition or worst. I do show my MACH I, but it's more about driving it to me and I aint going for the gold either.
 
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