Amps to Volts Bolt in Gauge

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

computercarguy

...can't get there from here...
7173 Mustang Supporter Member
Joined
May 8, 2014
Messages
625
Reaction score
56
Location
Northern NY
I just recently swapped my Amps gauge for a Volts gauge. This was a complete bolt in replacement with no Mustang pieces having to be altered at all (with the exception of altering the wiring). Mine wasn't set up for an amps gauge so wiring to a voltage source and ground was easy. If you are wired for amps I would simply tape the original wiring off and run a new lead to volts and the other to ground.

Here were the steps:

1)Purchase a SunPro Customline CP7985 voltage gauge. I was looking at a Bosch option too but this was more readily available.

2) Disconnect your center panel then remove the gauge pod assembly.

cp7985.JPG


04.jpg


3) Remove the retainers holding the lens on.

4) Simply unbolt the amps gauge and remove.

05.jpg


06.jpg


5) Carefully remove (destroy) the bezel from the new gauge. Try not to hurt the housing. The bezel and the lens will not be used.

6) Disassemble the gauge.

7) Remove the bulb housing (destroy).

8) Make a note of which is the positive terminal as the marking will be hidden when installed

07.jpg


08.jpg


09.jpg
10.jpg


11.jpg


9) Reassembly the gauge without the nuts. I felt the inclusion of the nuts brought the gauge forward in the pod too much. I settled on a single washer for spacing.

12.jpg


10) Bolt the gauge into the pod.

-Optional - Sharpie the blue line out.

-Optional - create and print out some VOLTS 'decals' and adhere the best match to the gauge. You could use a document program with white text and black highlight or Photoshop like I did.

-Sharpie the edges of the paper!

13.jpg


14.jpg


15.jpg
16.jpg


17.jpg


11) Put the lens back on.

12) Wire the pod up.

13) Assemble the panel.

19.jpg


14)Install the panel and wire up the new gauge accordingly. Instead of the amp wire feed, you will instead need to connect to "key on" power.

18.jpg


20.jpg


 
Last edited by a moderator:
Excellent write-up! ::thumb::

The questions I have though (since I have an ammeter in mine that I would be converting) - you mentioned rewiring for volts... where does that take place again? At the voltage regulator-end of the harness? At the gauge itself? If at the gauge, where did you get factory connectors?

I know those are more 'wiring' related questions that you didn't have to do, but maybe someone can chime in with the answers to help fill-in those details.

 
Thanks, I am happy to contribute. Hope it's useful, just wish I had more control over the online formatting.
It's an awesome "How-To." That's why I moved it to the Tutorials section under Electronics - so it didn't get shuffled to the bottom of the stack of all the other non-How-To threads in the sub-forum. ;)

What were you hoping to do with the formatting?

 
What were you hoping to do with the formatting?
I had created the directions in a table and thought I would be able to paste the code in but couldn't make it happen.

Excellent write-up! ::thumb::

The questions I have though (since I have an ammeter in mine that I would be converting) - you mentioned rewiring for volts... where does that take place again? At the voltage regulator-end of the harness? At the gauge itself? If at the gauge, where did you get factory connectors?

I know those are more 'wiring' related questions that you didn't have to do, but maybe someone can chime in with the answers to help fill-in those details.
Thanks. For my application I had three inches of the original pod wiring on the other side of the connector block. Just ran one to switch power (at the fuse box) and the other to ground. If I had original amp wiring and didn't want to cut into it, I would just run some wires straight from the gauge to switch power (at the fuse box) and ground using wiring eyelets and the nuts that came with the gauge.



Another option is to send your original gauge to Bob at RCCI and have him convert it to volts for $40.00 plus shipping.
That is quite reasonable. Does the factory wiring need to be altered?

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Another option is to send your original gauge to Bob at RCCI and have him convert it to volts for $40.00 plus shipping.
Which is a great option, and is still my plan (since I still need my speedo/clock cluster converted into a speedo/tach cluster).

 
Another option is to send your original gauge to Bob at RCCI and have him convert it to volts for $40.00 plus shipping.
Which is a great option, and is still my plan (since I still need my speedo/clock cluster converted into a speedo/tach cluster).
Check with Bob...I dont think he converts the clocks to tachs anymore. I believe he just converts the plain idiot light gauge pod.

 
Which is a great option, and is still my plan (since I still need my speedo/clock cluster converted into a speedo/tach cluster).
Check with Bob...I don't think he converts the clocks to tachs anymore. I believe he just converts the plain idiot light gauge pod.
I did, and we've already been working out a deal (for a long time now... if I can ever get my stuff together and actually send it to him ;) ).

 
Great write up. That's one of the few gauges I have seen that are correctly oriented (needle pointing down). It would be temping to convert all three but I don't think the accuracy of their oil/temp gauges is that great.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
That Voltmeter conversion turned out very nice. Impressive.

Side note - I vouch for Rocketman Bob at RCCI. The idiot cluster to tach conversion is awesome and WELL worth the money.

-KR

 
Back
Top