Anyone replaced all the brake lines?

[rybo]

I have a 73 Mach 1 that was sitting for 30-40 years, and the brakes didn't work at all which makes sense. I replaced the master cylinder, and went through the bleeding process. The front discs were normal, easy to bleed and work fine now.

The rears I can't get to bleed, no fluid flowing and with the master cylinder cap off the fluid shoots back up through the MC. I think the proportioning valve is either stuck or rusted up. So I figured I would just replace it, but in doing so all the line connectors are rusted and I won't be able to back them off without completely stripping it off.

So then I figured maybe just cut it all out and replace the lines and PV, something I would end up doing eventually anyway, just wasn't looking to do it now. But looks like I don't have much of a choice, so my question is how much of a job is it? I've never replaced brake lines before. Are the lines just simply bolted up to the frame and relatively easy to swap out, or is there more to it that I'm missing? Just curious on any advice you have before I start ripping lines out.

I have front disc, rear drum. Thanks!

 

[MikeGriese]

There are a number of kits out there in stainless or mild steel - pick your poison. Note that the lines will come folded, so you will need to straighten them when you install them. The line to the rear runs in the torque tube tunnel and up to and across the drivers side firewall. The right front brake line runs across the firewall above the engine, so that is a bit easier to access. I installed mine when the drive train was removed, I can see where it might get tricky working around the engine, transmission and firewall accessories.

 

[rybo]

There are a number of kits out there in stainless or mild steel - pick your poison. Note that the lines will come folded, so you will need to straighten them when you install them. The line to the rear runs in the torque tube tunnel and up to the firewall. I installed mine when the drive train was removed, I can see where it might get tricky working around the engine, transmission and firewall accessories.

Ok thanks thats what I was afraid of. I was thinking of just getting straight line and making my own lines, rather than the pre-fitted, that might help me avoid the areas I can't get to. Or I just hold off on that line till I pull the engine and tranny down the road.

 

[Bentworker]

Stick with steel or NiCop The pre-bent kits are okay, but you can do a lot with a 25’ coil, some skill, a bender and a double flaring tool. The “slot machine” type flaring tools are superior to the old type.

Stainless is a pain to work with, so much so that I believe it should be avoided.




25’ roll of brake line is less than $8 from Rock Auto

 

[rybo]

Stick with steel or NiCop The pre-bent kits are okay, but you can do a lot with a 25’ coil, some skill, a bender and a double flaring tool. The “slot machine” type flaring tools are superior to the old type.

Stainless is a pain to work with, so much so that I believe it should be avoided.

View attachment 95161

Thanks, yeah I was just looking into that option, I think I'd prefer just making my own steel lines from the 25' roll and going that route.