Anyone replaced all the brake lines?

[Don C]

IDK, I've got cars with 25yr old brake fluid in them still working fine. Its a sealed system. Where's all the water coming from?

The vent hole in the cap is the culprit. Every time the atmospheric pressure or temperature changes the cap 'breathes'. Because regular brake fluid is hygroscopic it pulls the moisture out of the air.

 

[giantpune]

The vent hole in the cap is the culprit. Every time the atmospheric pressure or temperature changes the cap 'breathes'. Because regular brake fluid is hygroscopic it pulls the moisture out of the air.

Does the rubber membrane have a vent hole?

 

[Don C]

Good point, but any imperfection or dirt on the rim of the master cylinder will allow air (and moisture) in. Improperly storing bottles or cans of brake (loose or missing caps) will let the brake fluid suck in moisture. Just pouring brake fluid into the master cylinder will add a little moisture, as will just checking the brake fluid. For those that live in the southwest (unless during a monsoon in Arizona) this will be a miniscule amount, for those that live in high humidity areas the absorbed moisture will be higher.

 

[Sheriff41]

I replaced all of mine with the nickel/copper and used the Hand held brake flaring tool ( Ebay £19.00 ) and a hand held bending tool to create smooth curves.
Can someone advise me, What size is the brake pipe, are there two sizes, because I'm sure my PV has two different size threads, or has this been done deliberately by the manufacturers so that you do not put the wrong pipe in the wrong PV port?

I think all the brake pipe is 3/16" but the tube nuts vary.

 

[Bobby]

It’s best to replace everything. Suppliers carry the oem style steel pre-formed lines or you can get stainless pre-formed lines…or you can buy a coil of copper-nickel brake line and custom fit them yourself. You’ll need a bending tool and flaring tool. You can remove the intact lines and lay them out on your garage floor and replicate each bend side by side. Also, there are several good videos on YouTube that will show you how to make inverted flairs.

 

[Don C]

I'm ready to start on mine, replacing the brake and fuel lines, and have the materials setting in the shop. I'm using copper nickel on them, never have to worry about rust and corrosion inside the lines, no worries about getting the stainless steel flares to seal, easy to work with and bend. Plus, they come with fittings:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01801G45A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
The Stop Shop also has the gravel guards:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015YGRG4C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[jctodd66]

Do you have a recommendation for a kit to rebuild the distribution block/proportioning valve?

Website link, instructions, etc

Any information is appreciated.

 

[dawson357]

Do you have a recommendation for a kit to rebuild the distribution block/proportioning valve?

Website link, instructions, etc

Any information is appreciated.

NPD has the kits.

 

[351c1971]

Do you have a recommendation for a kit to rebuild the distribution block/proportioning valve?

Website link, instructions, etc

Any information is appreciated.

​

Here is the info on the kit I used:
1970+ Ford Disc Brake Pressure Differential and Control Valve Kit
2B257-Kit-2


Muscle Car Research LLC
https://www.musclecarresearch.com
2B257-Kit-2

NPD
https://www.npdlink.com/
2B257-Kit-2

 

[jctodd66]

Here is the info on the kit I used:
1970+ Ford Disc Brake Pressure Differential and Control Valve Kit
2B257-Kit-2


Muscle Car Research LLC
https://www.musclecarresearch.com
2B257-Kit-2

NPD
https://www.npdlink.com/
2B257-Kit-2

Thanks for the info.

 

[351c1971]

Thanks for the info.

Here is the link to the rebuild instructions:
https://www.musclecarresearch.com/c...yes-brake-pressure-differential-valve-rebuild

 

[The Heff]

I think all the brake pipe is 3/16" but the tube nuts vary.

Thanks Sheriff for your reply. I have replaced all of my brake pipe in 3/16th nickel/copper, so thank God this is correct and I don't have to replace that lot again, NIGHTMARE
I am having a bit of a problem with poor brakes. Although I am running a Supercharger ( very little vacuum pressure created on tick over ) I am having to run a 12volt vacuum pump that produces -28 psi for the servo brake booster. I bought the Wilwood brakes and brake servo booster from CJ ponyparts and these were matched for each other. I have the Wilwood 4 pot brake callipers on the front and on the rear, inboard discs from the XJS 4.2ltr Jaguar IRS ( Independent Rear Suspension) 3.1 LSD ( Limited Slip Diff ) and my brake pedal travels half way to the floor then goes hard. To be honest, I did not bench bleed the master cylinder before fitting it, so there is probably air locked in there. I did read on one of the threads that there should be 1/8th play between the pedal and MC booster pushrod ( which can be adjusted ) and I need to check this. Also I need to remove both front callipers and bleed them in my hand just to make sure all the air is out. Is there anything else I need to do?

 

[Sheriff41]

It's difficult but not impossible to thoroughly bleed a master cylinder on the car. When you think you have it bled, go through the bleed procedure again.

Not sure why you would need to remove the front calipers to bleed them. Have you considered using a vacuum pump to bleed the system? It pulls the fluid, and air, through the system. Brake bleed vacuum pumps are relatively cheap and make the job easier, especially if you're doing it by yourself.

Definitely check your pushrod clearance as that can cause problems if out of spec.

 

[The Heff]

Another question. If I have replaced the drums for Discs brakes, do I still need the brake proportional valve, or can I remove this?

 

[The Heff]

It's difficult but not impossible to thoroughly bleed a master cylinder on the car. When you think you have it bled, go through the bleed procedure again.

Not sure why you would need to remove the front calipers to bleed them. Have you considered using a vacuum pump to bleed the system? It pulls the fluid, and air, through the system. Brake bleed vacuum pumps are relatively cheap and make the job easier, especially if you're doing it by yourself.

Definitely check your pushrod clearance as that can cause problems if out of spec.

It was to do with the Wilwood brake nipples not being at the top of the calliper when installed. Someone suggested to remove them and bleed them whilst holding them in your hand with the nipple facing upwards.

 

[Sheriff41]

Yes, you'll want a proportioning valve to balance the braking effort between the front and rear brakes. Mustangs had a distribution block that many refer to as a proportioning valve. For your system you'll will want an adjustable one to tune your braking action. Wilwood should have provided you with instructions describing the need for and how to adjust a proportioning valve. Do an internet search on this and you'll find plenty of information.

You will want the bleeder valve on the top. Are you sure you don't have the calipers switched right side to left side? If you switch them your bleeder valve should be on the top when the calipers are fitted.

 

[The Heff]

Yes, you'll want a proportioning valve to balance the braking effort between the front and rear brakes. Mustangs had a distribution block that many refer to as a proportioning valve. For your system you'll will want an adjustable one to tune your braking action. Wilwood should have provided you with instructions describing the need for and how to adjust a proportioning valve. Do an internet search on this and you'll find plenty of information.

You will want the bleeder valve on the top. Are you sure you don't have the calipers switched right side to left side? If you switch them your bleeder valve should be on the top when the calipers are fitted.

On my Wilwood callipers there are two nipples. But when you install them on their mounts the upper nipple faces about 10 o'clock, so hence the reason for removing them. I might be able to swing them upright by just removing the lower mounting bolt.

 

[The Heff]

I will have a look on the net for some more info about the adjustable PV unit. Thanks for your input.