Asking for Help how I might repair or replace this H-Connector?

[Moderator73]

I've come up totally short in trying to find a replacement for this D30Z-18B402-B H-Connector. I did find one on Ebay, but after cleaning it, it was not much better than my original. Here's pictures. three views of both so you can see the flaws. I've tried several places in my town and asked for suggestions for anyone who might be able to make a repair, with no luck. My next thought is to try a JBWeld coating on this but before I go this route, just asking for any other thoughts or suggestions. I'm thinking the JB Weld method would work as a temporary repair maybe, but then what? It's all steel, but seems to be soldered or brazed together.

The part is a component of the Emissions system where a 2 Port Temperature controlled Vacuum Valve (PVS) is mounted in this H-connector, where it ports vacuum back to a solenoid valve, and on to the EGR Valve & Auto transmission. So it seems that it's important, but given the scarcity of it perhaps not. From the Ford Parts Illustration manual it shows it was used typically on all V8's from 73-78 in the heater hose installation.

I appreciate any thoughts or suggestions anyone might have.

 

[Sheriff41]

I've come up totally short in trying to find a replacement for this D30Z-18B402-B H-Connector. I did find one on Ebay, but after cleaning it, it was not much better than my original. Here's pictures. three views of both so you can see the flaws. I've tried several places in my town and asked for suggestions for anyone who might be able to make a repair, with no luck. My next thought is to try a JBWeld coating on this but before I go this route, just asking for any other thoughts or suggestions. I'm thinking the JB Weld method would work as a temporary repair maybe, but then what? It's all steel, but seems to be soldered or brazed together.

The part is a component of the Emissions system where a 2 Port Temperature controlled Vacuum Valve (PVS) is mounted in this H-connector, where it ports vacuum back to a solenoid valve, and on to the EGR Valve & Auto transmission. So it seems that it's important, but given the scarcity of it perhaps not. From the Ford Parts Illustration manual it shows it was used typically on all V8's from 73-78 in the heater hose installation.

I appreciate any thoughts or suggestions anyone might have.

Have you considered taking it by your local radiator repair? They may be able to disassemble it and solder on replacement pipes.

 

[Moderator73]

Yeah, thanks Chuck. I did that, I was hoping the same thing. We only have one guy in our area who still does radiator repairs and he said there was nothing he could do with this and had no ideas himself? I did have him flush, clean and test my radiator while there since I have soooo many options. I've gone to body shops, auto parts, garages, a place that makes pressurized hoses & ends, even a tool & die place hoping someone could help point me towards something.

 

[giantpune]

How concourse are you after? I could see somebody machining off the 2 side tubes, then silver soldering on new tubes. Not sure you'd be able to find an exact match for them.

Another option would be sleeving them. Bore down the center of each pipe, press a sleeve in, and bore the sleeve thinner once its in.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Maybe check with some plumbers?

 

[Bentworker]

It looks like they are soldered or brazed together. I’d take an oxy acetylene setup to one and see if you can get it apart cleanly. You could purchase new tube, notch it, bead the ends and braze it up.

Edit… deleted the link to the Eastwood beading tool, it does not seem to get small enough for 1/2” or 5/8” tube.

 

[Sheriff41]

Give this place a try: http://www.allclassicmustang.com/MustangpartsmustangpartsNOSmustangpartsrestoration.html

 

[Moderator73]

How concourse are you after? I could see somebody machining off the 2 side tubes, then silver soldering on new tubes. Not sure you'd be able to find an exact match for them.

Another option would be sleeving them. Bore down the center of each pipe, press a sleeve in, and bore the sleeve thinner once its in.

I’m not after a concourse result at all for this piece. Thanks for these suggestions. I agree with you this should be possible, just haven’t found that magic door yet where someone with these skills resides and willing to take it on.

 

[Moderator73]

Maybe check with some plumbers?

Great idea that didn’t occur to me. Thanks

 

[woodstang]

I've come up totally short in trying to find a replacement for this D30Z-18B402-B H-Connector. I did find one on Ebay, but after cleaning it, it was not much better than my original. Here's pictures. three views of both so you can see the flaws. I've tried several places in my town and asked for suggestions for anyone who might be able to make a repair, with no luck. My next thought is to try a JBWeld coating on this but before I go this route, just asking for any other thoughts or suggestions. I'm thinking the JB Weld method would work as a temporary repair maybe, but then what? It's all steel, but seems to be soldered or brazed together.

The part is a component of the Emissions system where a 2 Port Temperature controlled Vacuum Valve (PVS) is mounted in this H-connector, where it ports vacuum back to a solenoid valve, and on to the EGR Valve & Auto transmission. So it seems that it's important, but given the scarcity of it perhaps not. From the Ford Parts Illustration manual it shows it was used typically on all V8's from 73-78 in the heater hose installation.

I appreciate any thoughts or suggestions anyone might have.

Don't despair, if you can't find one, the one is fixable. My old Boss brazed alot, wouldn't even see that as a challenge.

 

[MOTORCITYBADBOY]

I think I would sandblast and try silver solder on that little bugger..

 

[Bill Kanode]

I've come up totally short in trying to find a replacement for this D30Z-18B402-B H-Connector. I did find one on Ebay, but after cleaning it, it was not much better than my original. Here's pictures. three views of both so you can see the flaws. I've tried several places in my town and asked for suggestions for anyone who might be able to make a repair, with no luck. My next thought is to try a JBWeld coating on this but before I go this route, just asking for any other thoughts or suggestions. I'm thinking the JB Weld method would work as a temporary repair maybe, but then what? It's all steel, but seems to be soldered or brazed together.

The part is a component of the Emissions system where a 2 Port Temperature controlled Vacuum Valve (PVS) is mounted in this H-connector, where it ports vacuum back to a solenoid valve, and on to the EGR Valve & Auto transmission. So it seems that it's important, but given the scarcity of it perhaps not. From the Ford Parts Illustration manual it shows it was used typically on all V8's from 73-78 in the heater hose installation.

I appreciate any thoughts or suggestions anyone might have.

I would check with suppliers of present lines for old cars. The ends of the tube are called hose beebs that the vendors put on fuel lines. After having the metal tube made the center section can be silver soldered to the tubes. With a little fitness you could make your own using a commercial grade flare block and thin steel wall tube to make the beeb end similar to a metric line fitting. The hose beeb is used to prevent a hose from slipping off even though a clamp is used. If these ideas don't help you may contact me through this forum. Thx, Bill "Obi One"Kanode

 

[Don C]

You could take one of these and cut off the center piece, cut the crossover section off your EGR connector and braze it to the new tubes.
https://www.affordablestreetrods.com/copy-of-steel-heater-hose-nipple-1-2-npt-25633951.html
Another thought, what is the thread size of the connector? Is it a pipe thread size? If it is you could take brass fittings, 3 tees, 2 close nipples, and 4 hose bibs, and make a new one that won't rust away.

 

[Bill Perkins]

I've come up totally short in trying to find a replacement for this D30Z-18B402-B H-Connector. I did find one on Ebay, but after cleaning it, it was not much better than my original. Here's pictures. three views of both so you can see the flaws. I've tried several places in my town and asked for suggestions for anyone who might be able to make a repair, with no luck. My next thought is to try a JBWeld coating on this but before I go this route, just asking for any other thoughts or suggestions. I'm thinking the JB Weld method would work as a temporary repair maybe, but then what? It's all steel, but seems to be soldered or brazed together.

The part is a component of the Emissions system where a 2 Port Temperature controlled Vacuum Valve (PVS) is mounted in this H-connector, where it ports vacuum back to a solenoid valve, and on to the EGR Valve & Auto transmission. So it seems that it's important, but given the scarcity of it perhaps not. From the Ford Parts Illustration manual it shows it was used typically on all V8's from 73-78 in the heater hose installation.

I appreciate any thoughts or suggestions anyone might have.

Check with Gilbert Davenport on FB, he has a lot of 71-73 Mustang Parts

 

[Moderator73]

You could take one of these and cut off the center piece, cut the crossover section off your EGR connector and braze it to the new tubes.
https://www.affordablestreetrods.com/copy-of-steel-heater-hose-nipple-1-2-npt-25633951.html
Another thought, what is the thread size of the connector? Is it a pipe thread size? If it is you could take brass fittings, 3 tees, 2 close nipples, and 4 hose bibs, and make a new one that won't rust away.

This is a great find Don! Thanks so much. With your idea and Bill Kanode’s, I think I can get one of the local shops I’ve been to to reconsider taking this on. I’ll get this h-connector since it’s clean, beeb’d(?) and the perfect diameter.
Bob

 

[Moderator73]

Thanks for all the great suggestions and ideas! You guys are fantastic. I have so much more to work with now from my earlier dead end. Thank you all very much
Bob