The ideal setting of the pushrod length is "exact contact"
Ok, so first turns out mine had the nut as if it was welded. No way to make it turn in the car, So had to remove it, after some massage, clean and all greased went back in. Went first testing with bits deeper without measuring as on car with poor light it was not doable. This morning made a test drive. Not working as before, I feel I needed push more at low speed. MC loose again, this time I got sunny day light and nuts turning, so adjusted to distance and brake felt same. Did it again, this time screwed it with more lack. Clearly not ok, but certain the rod would no longer apply pressure at rest.
To be clear, I try this because with new brakes in front and back. new callipers, new flexibels, new proportioning valve, 80% new lines and of course new fluid, but I still have some drag. If after a drive I lift a wheel, it doesn't turn freely. Not much power is needed to rotate by hand, but it ain't free as it should be. If I drive a bit more and use the brakes on purpose much more, as the fluid expends because of heat, same, all feels ok while driving but lifting one of the wheel shows the drag even increases a bit and more force is required to turn the wheel by hand.
When i've serviced the front brakes, all was fine till I drove it. Noticing the drag, i've removed them again, and pushed back the calliper piston. Pressing the pedal stops the wheel and releases pressure as it should. No issue with the wheel bearing either. wheel turns with zero drag. The brakes otherwise perform very well, smooth but ferm pedal and feel strong. Stops the car at any speed with ease.
So at this point I think the mc is faulty. tho installed years ago, It's a new one. I think now that the primary piston doesn't travel back fully once its been pushed to a certain depth.
Anyone has other idea on what could be causing this drag? I start become tired of purging my brakes