Cole's build thread.... am I missing something here

[Cole]

What that. ^^^^^^^ Toys. Special thanks to Jordan for making some killer shipping crates. Everything got here in good shape Bro. These will go in storage till she's running as a 2V.

Spray them down with wd40 and bag em' so they don't rust.

Did that this morning before MA got up. Thanks for the tip. Hoping to maybe crank it before this coming weekend.

 

[Cole]

Just a quick update before my lady gets here. New fuel pump in, new lines connected with filter, new solenoid and voltage regulator, Got one of those mine torque starters from DBEelectical along with a new alternator. Those two should go in Sunday. Took the plugs out and turned the crank with a socket. Turns freely. Managed one bump with the old starter so I think I got all the wires back right. Damn straight I'm gonna get video of me and dad trying to start her. I'm itching for her to run. Have a great weekend yall. Pics after the weekend work on her.

 

[Don65Stang]

Awesome progress Cole! I'm soooo jealous at how much you've done with yours and how little headway I've made with mine. Keep up the good work!

 

[Cole]

I think I've found the perfect hobby. I'm pretty much home bound Don cept' for the tri-weekly time when MA's mom comes over and spends the night and I can get away. My old hobby of bass fishing just didn't work. It was either find something cool to do at home or go back to stamp collecting. Bwahahahahahahah Thanks for the kind words Bro.

 

[73vertproject]

You really are an inspiration, Cole. Keep up the awesome work. Can't wait for the vid/pics!

 

[Cole]

One of these wires on the voltage reg was frayed so I just lugged em all. I'll number the volt reg 1 thru 4 somehow. We've got industial label makers at work by Brady. Support with zip tie and ss sheet metal. At least I can move them around and untangle things and troubleshoot.



Remember this *** wipe. Got me a fitting and a tap from Kens. Everything up front came off. Including that new alternator I put on. Can ya paint a radiator? Wheres the Q-video. LOL



That's gonna be my engine color I guess. Broke a dang bolt taking the old one off. Hey at least it's not a threaded hole in the wp and I know I got a tap to fit that. Whoops paint didn't work on that yellow. Top left just to the right of that vacuum fitting.



What's that circled in yellow? I guessed it was the sensor for the temp guage but when I asked for one at kens it didn't look anything like this. One terminal like a half moon white ceramic insulation. (whoops paint didn't work on the highlight. top left corner next to the vaccum fitting)

Thank's for any and all help.

Cole

 

[73vertproject]

That's supposed to be the temp sending unit, but mine doesn't look anything like that.

You can see what mine looks like in this photo. Brass with a skinny threaded piece coming out that connects to a wire coming from the engine harness along side the carb:



Hope that helps.

 

[Cole]

Ya bailed me out again Doc. That's exactly what the guy at kens was going to sell me. Thanks for the pic. You engine looks awesome. Something to inspire to!!

 

[73vertproject]

Ya bailed me out again Doc. That's exactly what the guy at kens was going to sell me. Thanks for the pic. You engine looks awesome. Something to inspire to!!

LOL. Glad to be of assistance.

 

[Cole]

Repainting the radiator now. Ya know I will replace it later when I get to it for now a fresh coat of paint. Had to tap the block twice on that water pump. Fitting worked great. Blinged up that thermostat coupling with chrome. Need some bling so I got these too. I'll wait till the 4v heads go on to put these on...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m6582c351pd

Gotta go get the little one and make a chicken finger run too. C......YA

 

[Cole]

Had my buddy Newt from Newt's Exhaust and Welding stop by top help me bleed the brakes the old fashion way. He's a pro! His place use to be a Mineke before he ditched the franchise so he's done a ton of brakes. When we finished and he said that's one of the best brake pedals he's felt on a classic car I had to smile. Better feel good cause the only thing not new is a couple lines in the rear and that pedal. That means its safe to roll out of the garage outdoors to attempt a crank. It's a slight downhill.

Started pulling some of the tar and tar paper out of the driver floorboard. PPO (LOL) has some sheet metal screwed in there, under the tar. I used a heat gun, any other suggestions. Gonna need new pans for sure. Not so sure I have the time or patience to cut out an exact fit and weld the new pieces in. Thinking cut the rust out, encapsulate the old stuff and lay new one over. Anyone ever done that?

Attempt to start coming soon. Loving this new hobby of mine.

 

[73vertproject]

Keep at it, Cole. Can't help you with the floor pans - I just keep 'em covered with carpet and don't put a lot of weight on them, just in case.

 

[Cole]

A little history how I got here:

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-eyeball-my-carb

What I'm looking for from this motor:

Mainly right now just crank and run but hope rebuilding this top end and going to 4v with the parts already acquired and ones to be purchased will allow a strong motor that can handle any daily driving conditions plus be an above average performer.

Parts List: I'll update this list as you guys help me decide


Heads: D0AE(not sure how to find suffix) 4v Heads recently reworked before I purchased

 


Carb: Holley 750 DP Purchased. Pretty sure its mech choke

 


Intake: D0AE-9425-L Stock cast iron 4 barrel manifold

 


Headers: Not sure of the make but came as part of the above in a package deal

 


Cam and Lifter Kit: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=851&sb=2?? Actually looking at the kit K32-207-3 with timing gear set and lifters. But my new heads have new springs and I'm not sure how to tell if they will work with this cam.

 


Head Gaskets: ?? Not sure how to tell if its been bored. My cheap Harbour Frieght Micriometer says just a hair under 4"

 


Manifold Gaskets: ?? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-ms96012


Exhaust Gaskets: ??


Carb Gasket: ??


Rocker Arms:??


Push Rods:??

 


So far I've got both heads off and one side of the block cleaned up nice. The ports were awful. Here's a few pics of the side not cleaned up.

 

 


Some are down to pin holes and others blocked totally. Not too worried as the other side cleaned up fine. But this one has me concerned.

 

 


That's not corrosion it looks like a weld. Wont chip out with a screwdriver and is raised about 1/16 inch above the plane of the head. What's up with this.

 


If I go to Autozone could they loan me the tool that tells the exact bore so I can get the right head gasket? Do those look like stock pistons?

 


Grab some snack maybe a few cold drinks. This is gonna be a long ride.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Those look like stock cast pistons. The bore is hard to measure without the proper inside micrometer, but oversized pistons are usually marked on the top with a .030 or whatever the overbore was.

A set of stock felpro gaskets should be fine since you are using the 4V heads, make sure they get that right.

I have a Weiand 4V aluminum manifold we could discuss if you would rather not run the cast iron one. By changing away from a factory manifold you eliminate some of the emissions crap between the manifold and the carb. More importantly you lose some weight off the front end and you make manifold installation somewhat easier

 

[Cole]

Shoot me a PM with a price Jeff. I'm always considering upgrades. LOL Thanks for the info on pistons. I'll go with the stock gaskets. Good news is all the piston walls are very smooth.

 

[Don65Stang]

Mark,

If you're going to put a cam and lifters in it I'd go ahead and rebuild the bottom end.

I have a cheap HF micrometer that's pretty darn accurate. A hair under 4" is a standard bore block. The pistons look stock as well. How is the cross hatch pattern?

Was there any indication that the heads have ever been off or the engine opened up before? Like RTV gasket sealer between the intake and the block?

What are the date codes on the heads? Have the valves been replaced with one piece Manley single groove valves?

The "welded" water passage looks interesting. Put a chisel, punch or screwdriver on it and whack it with a hammer. I bet it pops off or breaks up. I've never seen someone weld up a water passage like that. The passages in your pics make a good case for flushing the cooling system every couple of years.

Fel-pro makes good gaskets. The cast iron intake is actually pretty good.

Cam choice. In this world of aftermarket do dads maybe I'm alone on this advice but a Q-code cam grind (aftermarket available) is very nice street cam and has it's own unique lope sound. The Ford engineers knew what they were doing. Your cam choice looks fine though for an everyday street engine build. I did a cam wiki on here where all the known cams for our engines I could find were listed. 71-73 Cam Wiki

however, my best advice is to ask Chuck (c9zx) about your engine build and do whatever he says. When it comes to engines, Chuck is to engines like Qcodemach1 (Scott) is to body work. The 351C is a bit unique and many machine shops consider it an exotic engine and "may" not have the best advice. Another guy I HIGHLY recommend you research is George Pence. He's on the Pantera forum but is THE guru for 351C. Chuck and George are the 351C goto guys and both have SOLID advice.

Here's some VERY good stuff to read about 351C engine building from George:

http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/5650045562/m/5721023226

http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/5650045562/m/319104265

If you do the bottom end add ARP rod bolts and a new crank damper to your plan.

 

[Cole]

I didn't find any sealer between the heads and the block. It may be the first time they have been off and Jeff's take on this pistons looking stock/reg bore seem to point that way to.

I'll ask Justin about the valves. And need to quiz him on the springs too.

Think I'll take a grinding stone to that weld looking spot. If that was a crack by chance I don't wanna whack her too hard.

I am considering pulling the whole thing. Dad offered an engine hoist for my B'day.

Thanks for the input buddy.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

With the top end off, pulling the whole thing isn't too hard.

I pulled mine in my driveway in a little under an hour without touching a power tool.

The factory rod bolts aren't the weak link in the bottom end, it is the nuts-the threads pull out of them. You can get ARP nuts and change them without pulling the engine apart completely-not sure if it is worth it, but rod bolt failure and 2 piece valve separation are the two likeliest killers of cleveland engines.

as far as you are, a timing chain is a no brainer, as is an oil pump and a better quality oil pump driveshaft. You can remove a maincap and look at the bearing to see the overall condition of the bottom end before putting much more money into the top end build.

Curious to hear more about that welded up passage


I saw a Harbor freight ad for a $99 hoist yesterday

 

[Don65Stang]

The factory rod bolts aren't the weak link in the bottom end, it is the nuts-the threads pull out of them. You can get ARP nuts and change them without pulling the engine apart completely-not sure if it is worth it, but rod bolt failure and 2 piece valve separation are the two likeliest killers of cleveland engines.

Correct. I meant rod nuts but typed bolts.

 

[auron73mach1]

Who's Justin? lol they are one piece stainless steel valves with the 3 angle grind done to them and stock replacement 4v valve springs


stock bore is 4.000 I believe