Distributor and Ignition Info Thread

[Mister 4x4]

Performed the "NPD Duraspark conversion wiring harness hack" this past weekend and cleaned up some more wiring around the battery tray/voltage regulator area

The wiring harness hack went well, but sparked an effort to clean up the spaghetti around the regulator/solenoid/battery tray area.

Having the wiring correct made things nice starting it up - turned the key to 'On,' waited a few seconds for the electric pump to prime everything (it had been sitting for a few weeks), and started right up within a split-second of hitting 'start' on the switch. I do need to put a stiffer return spring in the steering column, since the ignition switch seems to have no real sense of urgency to return to 'On' from 'Start.' But, that's another day.

The timing was still spot-on, so there was no need to mess with it. I did also switch from 'constant' to 'tuned' vac ports on the carb for the distributor vacuum advance. At idle, it's right at 18 BTDC, and spins up smoothly through the RPM range - which is even a tad more responsive than when it was on 'constant' vac. Some adjustments withe air/fuel mix leaned things out a bit, so it's running a lot better now as a result. I SO can't wait to drive this thing.

Thanks again for chasing this down! ::thumb::

 

[CZ-75]

::beer::

 

[Don65Stang]

The timing was still spot-on, so there was no need to mess with it. I did also switch from 'constant' to 'tuned' vac ports on the carb for the distributor vacuum advance. At idle, it's right at 18 BTDC, and spins up smoothly through the RPM range - which is even a tad more responsive than when it was on 'constant' vac. Some adjustments withe air/fuel mix leaned things out a bit, so it's running a lot better now as a result. I SO can't wait to drive this thing.

What's your total vacuum? 38?

 

[CZ-75]

That would sound about right, Don.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I have no idea what the vacuum level is. Can I assume you're really meaning timing advance?

In switching the vac port from 'constant' to 'timed,' my timing is showing a solid 18 BTDC at idle, and I'm sure it goes up from there. Before, with the dizzy vac on the carb's 'constant' port, it was pulling 38 BTDC total advance. But switching to the 'timed' port (and some 'more-informed' tuning of the carb itself), seems to have eliminated the constant 'rich' condition I was having.

 

[ceheler]

I do apologize if there is already a thread for this issue i looked and my result was fruitless.

Strange problem with my pertronix / distributor. First the car is a 71 coupe with a 351C -4V rebuilt around 500 miles ago. pertronix ignitor II, MSD 6AL digital, long tube hooker headers, pypes 2 1/2" with summit 2 chamber mufflers, edelbrock air cleaner, holley 770 CFM Street Avenger carb, rv cam as the rebuilder put it c-6 and ford 9" with 3.00 gears.

Just recently installed a GM single wire alternator napa number 67127 and drove it into the shop great. 2 days later started it up and it choked down a little earlier than normal and died. tried starting and it wouldn't stay running at all. Turned out choke was the issue so i adjusted it ( It got really cold all of a sudden in northern california) adjusted it and it idled a little low so i adjusted the idle and now it idles great in neutral. Put it in gear and it drops a lot of rpm (tach doesn't work) and then dies almost immediately. on a hunch i popped the distributor cap off (timing has always been an issue with this engine) and i noticed that the ignitor was touching the pickup on the distributor shaft and rubbing. I loosened the adjustment screw and realized that to adjust is to the point that there was a watch book thickness away it runs into the vacuum advance arm. I have to apply vacuum to get the arm out of the way just to get the ignitor away from the pickup. I am starting here and will work on finding probably a vacuum leak later but was wondering if anyone is familiar with this dizzy issue with the ignitor before and how to solve it also the distributor plate that the ignitor attaches to is loose and has a lot of play in it.

Also i will note the ignitor was in the car when i got it and i ave not put one in before.

 

[MeZapU]

It sounds like there is something wrong with the advance plate in your distributor. Seems like things are clocked out of position and causing interference. Since it's already broken, I'd take it all apart and see if I could figure anything out. You could always order another distributor and install your pertronix into it. Since you have said timing has always been an issue, it would seem a logical place to start.

 

[c9zx]

Is there a part number on the Pertronix? If so, you could check to see if the PO installed the right Pertronix. Stranger things have happened. Chuck

 

[Totalled]

Also, you can get a Ford duraspark distributor and use it to trigger the magnetic pickup side of the MSD box and just eliminate the pertronix.

 

[ceheler]

I plan on puling the Distributor out today and taking a look at it. I believe it is the original dizzy and am debating either replacing with a duraspark or MSD 8580 however the more i read in this forum the more I'm beginning to lean duraspark. Do you just use one out of a 400 or 460 and use the orange and violet wires to plug into the magnetic pickup harness the the MSD. I will take some pictures and get them up cause i know everyone likes pictures.

Chuck, I did check the number on the pertronix (which escapes me but will be included in the pictures) and according to RPW (racing products warehouse out here in California) this is the correct module

 

[c9zx]

I plan on puling the Distributor out today and taking a look at it. I believe it is the original dizzy and am debating either replacing with a duraspark or MSD 8580 however the more i read in this forum the more I'm beginning to lean duraspark. Do you just use one out of a 400 or 460 and use the orange and violet wires to plug into the magnetic pickup harness the the MSD. I will take some pictures and get them up cause i know everyone likes pictures.

Chuck, I did check the number on the pertronix (which escapes me but will be included in the pictures) and according to RPW (racing products warehouse out here in California) this is the correct module

This may be an option to consider for a distributor, it will need to be re-curved to keep total advance within acceptable limits. I am running two of these, in different cars, for over two years with zero problems. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-all-new-distributor-cheap?highlight=richporter I think I asked for 1977 351M application. Please double check that. Chuck

 

[ceheler]

Well Ladies and Gentlemen I now am out of my area of expertise and am hoping yall can take a look at these pictures and do my job for me

I disassembled it and put it back together and its back in the car now but everything looks good to me. I am a diesel and fuel injection guy so there may be something obvious and if there is feel free to poke fun at me endlessly however i ask that you point it out first.

Thank you in advance for all the knowledge you dump on me

P.S. i can't view that link Chuck it tells me i don't have permission but i will look one up for that application, beings as i work for a napa now im sure i can double check and if not return for the right one. I will probably need some of your knowledge when i get one as i have never recurved one.

 

[barnett468]

ok, i don't understand you question.

theb pertronix is the right unit . . there must be clearance between the unit and the distributor . . grab the top of the dist shaft and wiggle it, if it wiggles a tiny bit it is fine, . . if it wiggles more than that i might fix it . . compress the vac arm by moving the pertronix by hand or use a vac pump on the vac can . . if iyt does not move freely make clearance on the pertronix so it can.

also, i would buy high perf dist advance springs and replace only the stiff ford one with a new one and listen for detonation.

 

[ceheler]

Question is why is the pickup rubbing on the magnet sleeve. The shaft is tight i have to use a vac pump and it moves freely. I can get clearance between the pickup and sleeve if i apply vacuum but i don't feel i should have to apply vacuum and tighten the pickup and then release the vac because that would cause the timing to be advanced at idle because the arm is resting on the pertronix pickup i would think. I could be wrong though it has happened before.

 

[c9zx]

Sorry the link didn't work????? It was to a new Distributor made by Rich Porter Tech., Duraspark II for $81 new from O'Reilly's.

Maybe someone installed an incorrect vacuum advance unit????

Chuck

 

[Totalled]

I'm thinking that vac advance is wrong.

 

[ceheler]

Case closed. Thank you gents it appears the previous owner installed the wrong unit in. Don't know which one it looks like a 400 federal emissions unit but didn't have one in stock to compare At work today i got my hands on the correct unit and compared side by side and the arm curvature is incorrect on the distributor that is installed. Also was able to get a hold of the Duraspark II unit to install at a later date (napa part number 48-2893 for those who are interested at a later date). You are all gentlemen/women and scholars and i appreciate the support.

 

[Omie01]

OK, I'm about to plan my wiring strategy. I have a few factory repairs I have to make but had a question or 2. Whats the most popular feed wire in our cars to power an aftermarket distributor? I bought the plug and play MSD. MSD says if our tachs work off the positive side of coil we can just hook tach wire up to that, is this how our tachs work? Which wire is a good source for electric choke? Thanks!!

 

[midlife]

Ummm...I was under the impression that one needs a 6AL adapter to allow the Ford tachs to work with MSD...I don't do non-stock things, but that is what I remember from reading posts on various forums.

But I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night!

 

[jbojo]

Omie01, which MSD dizzy are you using?