Points replacement options

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Joined
Sep 15, 2023
Messages
31
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61
Location
Nevada
My Car
1972 RamAir Conv, 351C 4v, 4-spd
2008 Calif Spl Conv
I have a 72 w Ram Air, and still have the original dual-point. I know that's super cool, but I'm pretty tired of dialing those in and just want to simplify things. I have a stock Ford single-point that I can use and just put in the Pertronix guts for $120 or so (this allows me to leave the dual intact), or buy the full Pertronix replacement distributor? Not sure if there's any advantage to either option. (I get queasy replacing distributors because a Mallory I used ages ago literally ate the gear off my camshaft ... story for another post). With the Ram Air, it narrows my options too because of clearance, so need to consider that too. Planning on new coil and wires too ... just need to decide on the distributor stuff. Thanks for any advice/experience...
 
If you have a good Ford style distributor, i.e. no movement on the shaft bushing, Pertronix Ignitor II would be my suggestion along with the matching Flamethrower coil and a good set of spiral wound 8mm plug wires. I had a very bad experience with the PIII version, they may have fixed that problem by now, but I wouldn't buy that one.
Then of course timing may need to be recurved as you're changing the distributor. I'll not expand right now, but in the past, there has been lots posted on that subject. There is a search button top right, or just ask.
As you're new to the forum, there is a section for Introductions. It would be nice if you can go there and tell us about your ride with some pics. We love pics!!
Welcome from SW Ontario Canada by the way.
 
I recently swapped to a pertronix. I ended up going with the OEM style distributor and swapping in the pertronix3 guts and their coil. I always though it was bullshit when you'd see the marketing for ignitions and they'd have stuff like "1,000,000,000 volts" and "mega spark z0mg!". Then when I put the pertronix in, I set my initial timing with the #1 plug just grounded on the engine and rotate the distributor by hand. I saw the spark off that and it really was night and day different than what I was getting before with the points, even using the same plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.

The sole reason I didn't go with the pertronix distributor is because the gear. They dont sell one with the recommended gear material for our stock cams. So if you want to go by the book, you would have to get their brand new distributor and press off the gear to replace it. There are folks on here who have just dropped theirs in and not destroyed any gears, so it can be done. I just didn't want to chance it.

Plus the guts are cheaper if you already have the distributor body. And its only like 2 screws and crimping 2 wires to install it. It is stupid easy to break the little E-clip for your vacuum advance. You're meant to pull that clip off the old distributor and reuse it when installing the pertronix. They are delicate little flowers. Maybe order an extra E-clip along with everything else.
 
i've used pertronix twice. last stang i recall using the basic one and didn't make any changes to the voltage using the resistor wire and worked fine. when i got the vert it had pertronix that was hooked up to 12v and it's working fine. if u are still using the OEM dizzy just replace points . i read if u want 12v tie into the idle solenoid, it has ign on 12v u can use. but their is a ton of brains on this forum for much better info.
 
In reading a lot about the original style Pertronix, if you use the oem ignition coil the Pertronix module positive lead needs to be connected to a 12 volt switched voltage source. In that case, yes, the Circuit #640 Red With Yellow Striped wire that feeds the carburetor Throttle Position Solenoid (TPS) through the TPS pigtail. If, however, you are installing both the Pertronix 1st generation Ignition System AND the Pertronix Flamethrower Ignition Coil, the 12 volt switched power source needs to be connected to both the Pertronix Module and the Flamethrower Ignition Coil positive primary ignition terminal.

Either way, the Pertronix 1st generation is supposed to run on a 12 volt switched power system. I have seen quite a few folks simply connect the Pertronix module to the Ignition Coil positive primary system terminal, where the terminal is getting its voltage through the Ignition Resistance Wire, and it looks like the Pertronix system runs just fine. But, apparently running at less than 12 volts for some reason is being blamed for failing ignition modules. I am not sure if that is why modules are failing, but in a Pertronix tech support response I read a Pertronix tech did say voltage under 12 volts leads to early module failure. I decided to not take chances.

BTW, the Pertronix Flamethrower Ignition Coil I selected is the 3 ohm internal resistance unit per their recommendation. It has performed well from the first time I started the engine. YMMV...
 
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I neglected to provide a link to a video Lynda and I did re: installing a Pertronix unit on a stock distributor for our 73 Mustang's 302 2v engine. The only reason I installed the Pertronix unit was because a colleague in Brazil asked if I could show him how they are installed. Installing a Pertronix system does no harm if it is done correctly, and it is a simple installation, even when done using an incorrect positive voltage source for the electronic module positive lead.

In any event, I hope the following video link is helpful to someone:

https://youtu.be/_qGVhoFnJ50
 
I think I saw a pertronix setup for dual point on summit racing yesterday….
 
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