door jams, strip all the way down for color change???

[scgamecock]

Since I am doing a complete color change do I need to strip the door jams down to bare metal or can I just sand them smooth and shoot with epoxy primer sealer and then high build primer?  With all of the surface rust on the outer sheet metal I don't have much choice other that to strip all the finish off but how much old finish do I need to remove from the door jams, inner and surrounding door frames and under hood and trunk lid?

 

[turtle5353]

If the paint is in good shape and not cracking or peeling, you should be able to sand it down smooth. Feather any edges. Epoxy prime, do any body work you need to do, high build, sand, sand, sand. Good luck. You can check out how I did it on the 71 I did a couple winters ago. It was original paint car and most of the paint was in good shape and was a solid foundation. Any areas where I had body work to do, I took it down to bare metal.

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-new-project-for-this-winter-71-mach-1

 

[MikeGriese]

Are you doing a convertible or a coupe/fastback? If a convertible, I would recommend stripping to bare metal so you can inspect the integrity of the sheet metal in the lower rear corner of the door opening. The welds and sheet metal will crack there over the years. If your doors are difficult to close, this could be the reason. If you have a coupe or fastback, this isn't as big of a problem.

Just saw your other post about drip rails. Definitely not a convertible...

 

[Hemikiller]

No need to go completely to bare metal here, but get into the corners and overlaps really well, as rust tends to hide in there. Definitely dig out the old sealer, de-rust, prime and seam seal.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Just an opinion. 46 year old paint cannot be a good base. You can strip with liquid stripper pretty quick. If you can find someone with plastic media blast will take the paint off but not rust.

I like a naked body, lol.

 

[scgamecock]

I like a naked body, lol.

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