Dual electric fan/temp question

[73' mach 1]

Need some suggestions and advise here. I'm going to finally get a chance to put the stang back together this winter and I've been collecting parts over the last 3 years. Unfortunately over that time the build had changed three times before falling completely down the rabbit hole. Build ended up being a 408 with complete Holley sniper EFI with holley sniper ignition. My question would be about the stat and fans. I did end up getting the Robert Shaw 195 stat with the bypass plate. I'm not 100% sure because I haven't dug into it yet but I think the Holley can control the fan on and off temps? If not what degree temp sensor should I look to get for the fans? It was suggested to install the fan temp sensor at the bottom of the radiator. My factory rad was completely redone and pressure tested. I have 2 dual spal fans that make about 1350 cfm a piece along with a good shroud. With the motor making a lil over 500HP will these fans be enough? Is this still the correct degree stat to go with? Most of its driving will be spring, summer and fall.

 

[73pony]

You might want to run a 180 stat with that build as opposed to the stock 192. As far as the fans go you should be fine. I am running a stock fan and original 73 radiator in mine with no issues at all. As far as the temp sensor and EFI controlling the fans I cannot help there.

 

[Go Time]

I’m in the process of wiring my fans up on a Holley sniper. The sniper can completely control your fans/temp. It uses the Holley sniper temp sensor. There is I believe a light blue and green wires in the accessories harness pigtail on the sniper. These are the grounding side of your relays. Instructions tell you which one is which in terms of fan one and fan 2.You can wire two separate circuits to allow the sniper to have a dual temp control as well. This way you can have one fan come on in normal and the second come on in a high stress situation sitting in a line of classics when it’s 95 degrees ambient etc etc. there are some tech help on Holley sniper website that would describe it to you how to wire and such. I think there was a you tube video as well of a guy controlling the temp from the handheld.

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[c9zx]

It should cool just fine. I have stock radiator and fan with 408 making 529 HP and I have no cooling problems. Chuck

 

[73' mach 1]

It should cool just fine. I have stock radiator and fan with 408 making 529 HP and I have no cooling problems. Chuck

Hey Chuck, what stat are you using?

 

[73' mach 1]

I’m in the process of wiring my fans up on a Holley sniper. The sniper can completely control your fans/temp. It uses the Holley sniper temp sensor. There is I believe a light blue and green wires in the accessories harness pigtail on the sniper. These are the grounding side of your relays. Instructions tell you which one is which in terms of fan one and fan 2.You can wire two separate circuits to allow the sniper to have a dual temp control as well. This way you can have one fan come on in normal and the second come on in a high stress situation sitting in a line of classics when it’s 95 degrees ambient etc etc. there are some tech help on Holley sniper website that would describe it to you how to wire and such. I think there was a you tube video as well of a guy controlling the temp from the handheld.

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I thought you could I just wasn't sure. I haven't looked into the install yet. Looking forward to this winter and finally get to fire this thing up.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Like Chuck, I'm running a stock (OEM replacement) radiator, with a stock fan clutch with a 7-blade fan from an earlier model Galaxie 500 (I believe).  I have the original 351C-2V that's been bored (.060"), balanced, blueprinted, and warmed up with go-fast goodies from Edelbrock, CompCams, Crane Cams, Hooker, etc.  It's producing 400-ish at the crank - no overheating issues, even on 100 degree West Texas summer days.  I did the "Pantera Mod" to the thermostat (which basically allows a 351C to run a 351W thermostat properly - since that's all the parts stores seem to sell anymore) and haven't looked back.

 

[c9zx]

It should cool just fine. I have stock radiator and fan with 408 making 529 HP and I have no cooling problems. Chuck

Hey Chuck, what stat are you using?

Proper 351C stat, 180 degree. Chuck

 

[turtle5353]

It should cool just fine. I have stock radiator and fan with 408 making 529 HP and I have no cooling problems. Chuck

Hey Chuck, what stat are you using?

Proper 351C stat, 180 degree. Chuck

I am same as Chuck.  Stock rad, fan, and t-stat.   0 issues.  408C

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I am a firm believer in using the stock baffle under the thermostat and correct thermostat with is available and not extinct as some think. I also am a firm believer in 192 deg. That gives the water more time in the radiator to remove more heat. 

My car is not a 408 but a 351 C bored .050" with flat top pistons, cam, holley 4-V, AC and C-4 automatic with higher stall converter and shift kit. Running the 2-V heads with Performer intake 4-V.

I just have a cheap aftermarket flex fan and stock radiator that is very clean inside. I did take the Automatic Transmission cooling lines off of radiator and put a Hayden remote trans cooler with fan out front of the radiator. I went to a rod run in Pigeon Forge Tenn and took over an hour of crawling through the traffic in over 90 deg weather couple weeks ago. Temp gauge never moved never does. The thermostat does its job and the radiator and trans cool works fine. 

I also run ethanol free 90 octane fuel with the Lucas Gas treatment. 

Here are some pisc of the cooler. I fabricated the two brackets so I used current fasteners in the radiator support and grill center bracket and use stock hardware so looks stock. The trans return line is completely cool. I could not find pics but I posted on forum when I did install earlier so do a search. 

Of course run a 50 / 50 mix on antifreeze and good pressure cap and always used distilled water to keep the minerals out of the radiator and block.