Early 1971 Fastback

[carguy47]

It's been a while since the cover has been off our '71, but I believe the gap is normal. There are trim pieces that fill the void. You can usually find them if you search ebay for "1971 Mustang non-fold down rear seat trim". Here's one I found.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/143679553789?hash=item2173f800fd:g:djEAAOSw1HtfMaND
The driver and passenger sides are different.

My car has both sides installed.

 

[carguy47]

Working on the dash. Wiring nightmare! Cut wires and open connectors.
Time to do some research and hit the books.

 

[carguy47]

Here's to AZ dirt! ughh.. New bezel lens is MISSING the clock hole!

 

[carguy47]

Dash gauges cleaned up and new lenses installed. Superglue worked great.

 

[71ProjectJunk]

It's been a while since the cover has been off our '71, but I believe the gap is normal. There are trim pieces that fill the void. You can usually find them if you search ebay for "1971 Mustang non-fold down rear seat trim". Here's one I found.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/143679553789?hash=item2173f800fd:g:djEAAOSw1HtfMaND
The driver and passenger sides are different.

This has now got me really confused. I just went out to my car, all the interior is out of it except the drivers seat, but I looked everywhere and I could not find any evidence of those trim pieces either on the car or where the interior is stored in the garage. I looked at old photos and I could not see them either. Maybe some years used these trim pieces? I don't know. As far as I can recall the rear seat sat basically flush with the rear interior door panels. There was no big gap with trim pieces hiding it. My car did not come with the original 71 rear door panels when I bought it, it had 72 panels which have the seat belt holes in them, I don't know if that would make a difference.

 

[carguy47]

I hear ya! My car is a mishmash of 71-72-73 parts. The car was made 11/02/1970 according to the Marti report. GOD knows what happened in the last 50+ years. The reason I paid for the report was my car has 72 doors on it and from different cars. I had no way to know what was originally on the car.

On a side note, I drilled the clock adjustment rod hole. Good thing my OCD made me measure and mark several times. hahaaa.

 

[71ProjectJunk]

Looks good

 

[carguy47]

Thank you. What's tricky is the hole is at an angle. I made a paper template, put blue tape on the glass and drilled a straight hole. Then with a larger bit, I changed it to an angle.

 

[tpj71mach]

OK, I posted some stuff on the "Introduction page"
So, here is my project, a 1971 Mustang Mach 1 M-code.
Motor and trans were replaced with a C4 and 302.
On a positive note (I think??), all the floor pans and trunk pan were replaced, so minimal rust.
Ahead we go...

Looks like a nice solid car to start with good luck and have fun with it!

 

[mrgmhale]

Working on the dash. Wiring nightmare! Cut wires and open connectors.
Time to do some research and hit the books.

You may already be aware of this, but if I don't mention it I will feel I have not provided help to someone who may not know. My GoTo site for excellent schematics for First Generation Mustangs, especially beginning in 1972, and more especially with the 1973 manual, is Forel Publications.. And their prices are very reasonable. The 1971 and earlier schematics are useful, but not nearly as detailed as the 72 and especially 73, schematic files.

https://www.forelpublishing.com/clickbank/index.html#Top
There are a few differences between 71, 72, and 73 schematics, to include:
- In 72 and 73 there is Circuit #640 that powers a Throttle Position Solenoid (TPS) that is on mounted some (not all) engine carburetors, Red Wire with a Yellow Hash tracer. That TPS circuit is not present in 1971 wiring harnesses.
- In 1973 the electric choke, powered from the Alternator Stator terminal (Circuit 4, White with a Black Stripe tracer) was introduced, which is not present on 71 or 72 model harnesses.
- There are be some emission control components in 1973 not on the earlier year Mustangs, related to vacuum control switches for components such as the EGR valve in some engine calibrations.

In any case, I recommend getting the 1973 schematic, in addition to the 1971 schematic for your 1971 Mustang. Both are useful, the 1973 schematic especially.

 

[carguy47]

Thank you for the information

 

[carguy47]

Dash ready and put in today.

 

[71ProjectJunk]

You really working on that car everyday, good for you! I wish I had the energy and enthusiasm I used to, I would be a busy bee just like you, getting the car ready to go back on the road.

 

[Jcloutier0722]

Mine 72 is a very early build 9/11/71 and still has many aspects of the 71 so I have to watch out... I don't have the seat belt buzzer light on the Pass side just a light next to the headlight switch. Still have the cinch seat belts not the retractors that were more common in 72. Every day I'm finding more oddities. Having worked for Ford, I know they introduce changes depending upon many factors during the assembly schedules.

 

[Stanglover]

I thought I'd post a pic of one of my previous Mustangs. This car was bought for 500 bucks back in 1980 as a parts car, but turned out to be too good for that and ended up as my "winter beater". This was a 72 H code, original Light Pewter with Vermillion deluxe interior. Forget that it has 73 stripes, I was given that, so I used it.

 

[carguy47]

I thought I'd post a pic of one of my previous Mustangs. This car was bought for 500 bucks back in 1980 as a parts car, but turned out to be too good for that and ended up as my "winter beater". This was a 72 H code, original Light Pewter with Vermillion deluxe interior. Forget that it has 73 stripes, I was given that, so I used it.

Yeah, life was easier and cars were way cheaper back then. I bought a 1971 Torino GT with a boss 302 in it from a diesel mechanic from Michigan in 1982 for $500. Car was full of power and bright Canary Yellow with black interior.

 

[tpj71mach]

Life was simpler then for sure. I bought a 69 Mach 1 in 1982 with a blown clutch for $350 and replaced the clutch and proceeded to beat the crap out of it for like 5 or 6 months, really driving it like I stole it. Smoked off a new set of rear tires and the quarters were covered with rubber. A guy I knew then offered me $1500.00 for it and I thought I was a hero for tripling my money. I sure wish I had that car today.

 

[carguy47]

Life was simpler then for sure. I bought a 69 Mach 1 in 1982 with a blown clutch for $350 and replaced the clutch and proceeded to beat the crap out of it for like 5 or 6 months, really driving it like I stole it. Smoked off a new set of rear tires and the quarters were covered with rubber. A guy I knew then offered me $1500.00 for it and I thought I was a hero for tripling my money. I sure wish I had that car today.

Yeah, have done that many times. Wish I still owned all those old muscle cars from back then

 

[Stanglover]

Yeah, have done that many times. Wish I still owned all those old muscle cars from back then

Me too, like both my 72 Mach 1's, a Q code and the H code. Hind sight hind sight!

 

[71ProjectJunk]

I thought I'd post a pic of one of my previous Mustangs. This car was bought for 500 bucks back in 1980 as a parts car, but turned out to be too good for that and ended up as my "winter beater". This was a 72 H code, original Light Pewter with Vermillion deluxe interior. Forget that it has 73 stripes, I was given that, so I used it.

Your winter beater would be considered "almost mint" today. The amount of cars that I saw junked back in the 80's that are way better than what we are trying to restore today is astounding. Most cars that people are trying to restore today, would have been taken straight to the crusher in the 80's. I remember buying 2 1971 383 Roadrunners for parts, that today people would kill for. Both cars were owned by a guy that lived right across from the beach. Both cars were straight as an arrow, but had some rust on the frame rails and floors, and not on all the frame rails mostly in a couple of areas that had rusted through. I bought both cars, for a couple hundred bucks, and stripped the parts I wanted off them and they went to the scrapyard. If I put those cars on eBay today people would be tripping all over themselves to buy the "mostly rust free and straight cars", lol.