Ebay front disc conversion kit

[jowens1126]

Has anyone seen or used this front conversion kit?

Any thoughts on it? 

It looks like its using original style calipers with a funky plate backing plate and caliper bracket.  The ad says it was specifically made to clear 14" Drum brake wheels.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1971-1972-1973-FORD-MUSTANG-FRONT-DISC-BRAKES-5-LUG-FITS-ORIG-14-WHEELS/201283795237?epid=7002860054&hash=item2edd72f925:gogAAOSwf9tbA137:rk:1f:0

 

[Stanglover]

Has anyone seen or used this front conversion kit?

Any thoughts on it? 

It looks like its using original style calipers with a funky plate backing plate and caliper bracket.  The ad says it was specifically made to clear 14" Drum brake wheels.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1971-1972-1973-FORD-MUSTANG-FRONT-DISC-BRAKES-5-LUG-FITS-ORIG-14-WHEELS/201283795237?epid=7002860054&hash=item2edd72f925:gogAAOSwf9tbA137:rk:1f:0

 No idea as to quality of these, but the SSBC 4 piston kit for drum conversion also fits 14" wheels and without changing the spindles. I run them with Magnum 500 without any issue. I ran these without a power booster for 4 years before I added the booster. Again no issue with poor braking. More expensive, but at least you know what you have. There are lots of good conversion product on the market. Don't jump at the first you see. Your life may depend on it.

The pics with ancient machines, (not saying ancient machines aren't still good, had to use them for years!!) make me wonder if these are more "home made" than top notch products. Just my thought on it, but your choice.

Geoff.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Looks like GM calipers. I would question the no name company's "engineering" and more importantly their ability to stand behind it in the event of a failure.

 

[Stanglover]

Looks like GM calipers.  I would question the no name company's "engineering" and more importantly their ability to stand behind it in the event of a failure.

 Jeff,

 I can't comment on the GM calipers, but I took another look at the pictures. Those mounting brackets look scary to me, way too thin.

 

[jowens1126]

yea the thin mounting brackets were what caught my eye as well. Looks pretty shady. But hey, they are cheap.

lol

 

[Hemikiller]

Backing plate/brackets would probably be fine, looks like they are 1/4" thick or so, with a thin 16ga or so dust shield.

IMO, for that money you can buy a set of original spindles and all new components. Saves the hodge-podge of parts sourcing in the future.

 

[clevelandcoupe]

As always, "You get what you pay for"

Do yourself and go with the OEM parts !!!!

Thanks, Jay

 

[Don C]

IMO, for that money you can buy a set of original spindles and all new components. Saves the hodge-podge of parts sourcing in the future.

+1, my thoughts, too.

Not only that, it's obvious from the guy's business name that he is a Chevy guy, what does he know about our cars?

Contact OMS Don or MotorCity Mike and see what they can do for you. West Coast Classic Cougar is another possibility.

 

[Don C]

Here's some more possibilities

http://www.raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/diskbrakes.html

 

[jowens1126]

I actually found a member selling the whole front disc brake system.

I am still on the look out for a original Disc Brake Pedal and bracket.

 

[Stanglover]

I actually found a member selling the whole front disc brake system.

I am still on the look out for a original Disc Brake Pedal and bracket.

 Finding a disc brake pedal and bracket may be hard to find. You can change a non-power drum brake pedal to work with power disc by buying, or making, a new push tod pin and locating it 2" lower. It could be a bolt in or weld in pin.  If you are not going to power, then the higher pin location will work ok, but you need to change the master cylinder to disc/drum. You probably know that already.

Please remind me, is your car auto or manual trans? Just to save me going back through this. If manual, there are other recommendations to get a better driving car.

Here is a pic of a modified brake pedal.

 

[jowens1126]

Its an auto - C4.  

I have the bolt on Pin that gets mounted 2" lower on the pedal.  I just really would rather have a legit pedal.  I suppose I will end up using the bolt on one till I happen to find a pedal for sale at the same time I have money, which isn't often. lol.

I got a booster from LEED brakes.  They threw in the new pivot pin with the booster.  They seem like a good company to work with.



I know I will need a new Master Cyl as well, I'm still deciding on what route I wanna go on that.  I will probably cheap out and get a stock disc brake master.  I would rather have something aluminum though so it wont turn into a rusty mess like my current master.

I'm also replacing all the lines with Stainless.  Mine have seen better days and that's one thing I don't want to have a weak link.

One thing I do want is to relocate the Proportioning valve so its attached to the master, something like this.  This is the Prop valve I'm wanting to use and I really would rather it be easily accessible for adjustment.  I'm still not sure if moving the Prop valve is worth the headache of adapting the brake lines to fit this location though.

 

[Stanglover]

Thanks for letting us know what you have.

+1 on the stainless lines. a bit harder to get in and a bit harder to get to seal, but worth it imo.

 The bolt in pin can always be welded in if you're worried about it coming loose, not likely anyway.

 On my brake conversion, all I had was the original non-power drum brake prop valve. The SSBC kit came with an adjustable rear brake valve, so all the orig did was to supply the front brakes. The downside is I have no idiot warning light, but I do have the adjustment I need to get good rear brake pressure without too much left wheel lock up. My car has an open diff, so no drive to the left wheel when braking.

The Wilwood prop valve would be a nice unit if it can be bought separately. I might even think about that one.

As for the cast M/C, clean it and paint with 'cast blast' high temp paint. I use Eastwood paints for this. It will look good for years! Personally I really hate it at car shows when I see a great looking car (any brand) but with rusty parts like master cylinders, power steering boxes and the like. There's no excuse!

Keep us posted.

Geoff.

EDIT:

Here's an old pic showing the orig 71 prop valve and the SSBC adjustable valve. I made a funky compound bracket to fix to the apron.

I did say "old" and long before the M/C got painted!

 

[jowens1126]

The prop valve is available, and according to my limited research, it appears that all the fittings are the correct size as well, so it should be a drop in.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11179?seid=srese2&cm_mmc=pla-msn-_-shopping-_-srese2-_-wilwood-disc-brakes&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Brands+|+W&utm_term=4581458796323063&utm_content=GSAPI+5ba2a4ce14c40



So my car is a 4 wheel manual drum car at the moment. The brakes have never been any good on it. I even replaced everything and had all the drums machined. After that, it was WORSE. lol Pedal pressure dropped off to minimally acceptable. Then I had a complete failure, lost all brake pressure. Saw no signs of any fluid leaks anywhere. Took it to my mechanic, and after going over everything they found a TINY leak under the idiot light sensor on the stock distribution block. I got the rebuild kit from CJP for it and that returned my pedal to acceptable, but still was not nearly where it should be. So I think its still leaking a miniscule amount.

So I am going to start collecting parts for this disc conversion. My aim is to go with stock stuff as much as possible, but I'm still not sure what Calipers I am going to be able to use. I have 14" Drum brake Magnum 500's and I REALLY don't want to spend $1000-$1500 on wheels and tires just so they clear the brake calipers. That being said, I still have no idea what the BEST option is for me as far as doing the conversion so that my 14" wheels will clear. I know some of the kits clear the wheels and some don't, but I have not gotten any 1st hand confirmation on what ACTUALLY clears the wheels without a wheel spacer.

I did find some original parts. Spindles, calipers, caliper brackets, dust shields. I'm still looking for a pedal, even though I'm going to use my stock pedal initially.

I have no idea if these calipers will clear or not, but at least I have something to play with and take some measurements on. They might be close enough too clear with a little strategic grinding.

 

[Stanglover]

The prop valve is available, and according to my limited research, it appears that all the fittings are the correct size as well, so it should be a drop in.

So my car is a 4 wheel manual drum car at the moment.  

So I am going to start collecting parts for this disc conversion.  My aim is to go with stock stuff as much as possible, but I'm still not sure what Calipers I am going to be able to use.  I have 14" Drum brake Magnum 500's and I REALLY don't want to spend $1000-$1500 on wheels and tires just so they clear the brake calipers.  That being said, I still have no idea what the BEST option is for me as far as doing the conversion so that my 14" wheels will clear.  I know some of the kits clear the wheels and some don't, but I have not gotten any 1st hand confirmation on what ACTUALLY clears the wheels without a wheel spacer.

I did find some original parts.  Spindles, calipers, caliper brackets, dust shields.  I'm still looking for a pedal, even though I'm going to use my stock pedal initially.  

I have no idea if these calipers will clear or not, but at least I have something to play with and take some measurements on.  They might be close enough too clear with a little strategic grinding.

 Thanks for posting the prop valve, I may just check that out as I would like my idiot light working.

As for the brakes and if your budget is tight, check out the SSBC 4 piston kit for 14" wheel drum conversion. If you read my previous post, I went over this. That kit fits right on the drum brake spindles, with no issues. When I did mine, I also was replacing my brake lines to SS, so it took a little longer, but still only took 2 1/2 hrs to complete. That was with no booster either and the braking was vastly improved over drums. Any of your fav vendors probably sells them, but I'm pretty sure NPD still does. I switched mine back in 2010 and still no problems, but I do now have a booster.

Geoff.

 

[jowens1126]

I was looking at the kit last weekend when I went up to NPD. It looks pretty nice. I love going to that place. The Owner of NPD Has a gigantic warehouse there in Ocala. Not only is it filled with parts, its also filled with his classic car collection. I dont know how many there are, but its probably over 200. Of course he has a pristine example of every noteworthy Mustang too. The GT500 KR is outstanding, as is his Boss 429. If your ever in Ocala, FL its worth stopping in. Its only about a 45 min drive for me, which is dangerous on pay day.

 

[Don C]

Sounds like a fun place to go. When we lived in Reno one of my favorite places to go was the Summit store. Next was Pic-n-pull

 

[jowens1126]

I have like 5 pick n pulls within 15 mins of my house, I could spend every weekend there if I had the energy.

 

[Stanglover]

I was looking at the kit last weekend when I went up to NPD.  It looks pretty nice.  I love going to that place.  The Owner of NPD Has a gigantic warehouse there in Ocala.  Not only is it filled with parts, its also filled with his classic car collection.  I dont know how many there are, but its probably over 200.  Of course he has a pristine example of every noteworthy Mustang too.  The GT500 KR is outstanding, as is his Boss 429.  If your ever in Ocala, FL its worth stopping in.  Its only about a 45 min drive for me, which is dangerous on pay day.

 NPD in Ocala, yes I know. The last time I was there, the warehouse was closed so I couldn't get a tour. Maybe next spring when I'm in Florida,

As for pick-n-pulls, I wish! the ones we have around my area are way passed old stuff, nothing for our cars anymore. You guys have no idea how lucky you are to live in an area where cars and parts ARE still out there. Anything that is left around here is pretty much a pile of rust.

Good luck with your brakes, but make the right decision, your life may depend on it.

Geoff.