FE Alignment

[L.C.Gray]

Kinda worried about my front end alignment. The car drives ok, best I can tell. It does have a tendency to road walk, but hey it's a 43 year old car...

Here's my issue. I parked the car after returning from HRPT in June and haven't drove it. It was due for service so I got it out and took it to my local Quick Lane. While it was on their rack I was inspecting the bottom side and noticed my front tire wear wasn't even. The inside row of tread on the drivers side was already worn to half its tread depth. The inside row of tread on the passenger side was worn similarly but only to about 3/4 of its tread depth. The rest of the tread across the tire looks new still. The tires are low profile 17's running 37 lbs of air and only have about 6,000 miles on them. Whats most likely out of whack to cause that type of tread wear? I'm kinda afraid to have it put on the alignment rack and have 'em tell me the whole front end needs to be completely redone.

 

[delawarebill]

that can be a host of problems. upper/lower ball joints, the rubber mountings of the inner side of the upper/lower arms. i did my '66 fairlane this past spring. replaced everything. u can buy a kit with all u needed. the biggest problem is the spring. u have to grab it from above with an inner spring compressor. u can do everything yourself except when u let the spring loose to reset it.. u may need extra hands, i did.

i got the spring compressor at autozone rental. it's a wkend job and not a big problem.

u can have someone do it but hang onto your wallet, labor is gonna nail u.. or spend under $500 and do it yourself then take it in for an alignment

 

[c9zx]

It sounds like both front wheels are toed out. 37 PSI seems too high to me.

Chuck

 

[kcmash]

As stated above, it could be a number of things. With the inner tread wear and the wandering I am leaning toward a camber adjustment. (That is the inside to outside tilt of the axis that runs through the upper and lower ball joints)

So I suggest you do this. Go to quicklane or whoever you trust. I know Ford will do a free alignment check when I go in for service. Whether it is a free check or you pay for an alignment tell the service writer that you want a printout of the alignment readings for your car. If they adjust, tell them you want before and after readings printed out for you.

Whether you know what you are looking for or not, this usually gets you a better alignment. The shop does not know how much you know, but they will not risk cutting corners when you ask. Also, the spec limits for your car are printed on the sheet showing the max and min settings recommended for your car. Keep the print outs, google it, ask here and you will get some better advice from people who actually do alignments. I'm just an engineer who thinks I know everything.

kcmash

 

[Totalled]

Quick lane has the specs in their machine. They did my car two years ago. (And aligned it to the global west suggested settings.)

 

[L.C.Gray]

...37 PSI seems too high to me.

My tire store installed all 4 tires with 26 psi. Fronts and rears are totally different sizes, 17x7 fronts, 18x8 rears and tires sized proportionally similar to the wheels. When I was going to have the car loaded heavily for a week travelling on the Power Tour I bumped the tires up to 37psi. The car drives better with the higher pressure both loaded and empty. The car was a little lazy feeling at 26 psi. The lower pressure was run for about 3500 miles. The higher pressure for last 2500. Max load rating of the tires occurs at 51 psi so I have plenty of room at 37psi. Higher inflation should ideally help keep both the inner and outer most treads from wearing ahead of the middle.

 

[73pony]

...37 PSI seems too high to me.

My tire store installed all 4 tires with 26 psi. Fronts and rears are totally different sizes, 17x7 fronts, 18x8 rears and tires sized proportionally similar to the wheels. When I was going to have the car loaded heavily for a week travelling on the Power Tour I bumped the tires up to 37psi. The car drives better with the higher pressure both loaded and empty. The car was a little lazy feeling at 26 psi. The lower pressure was run for about 3500 miles. The higher pressure for last 2500. Max load rating of the tires occurs at 51 psi so I have plenty of room at 37psi. Higher inflation should ideally help keep both the inner and outer most treads from wearing ahead of the middle.

I have 17's on mine and run about 37-38 psi as well in the front. I agree the car handles better, this was also recommended by the tire shop. I would suspect one of two things. Simple alignment is off or Worn tired ball joints. My ball joints are pretty shot as well, I have all the parts for the front suspension rebuild I just need to make time to get it all done. Once I get everything done I might try a slightly lower pressure to see if I can back if off a little once the suspension is back up to snuff.

 

[wwhite72]

c9zx nailed it. You should know the stock specs for the car...and compare to what the shop says you have currently. Try a different shop than the one that did the last alignment. One with the laser equipment? Sometimes you can get a deal on a realignment if you explain that you will be replacing parts and will be back in a couple weeks.Maybe the guy that sold you them expensive 17" tires with the bad wear pattern will help you out?

 

[L.C.Gray]

Will just have to start from scratch. I have no idea who did it or when the last alignment was done. I do suspect the tires installed at to low an air pressure didn't help whatever the real problem is.

 

[Pegleg]

I would start by jacking up front end. Grab the tyre at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and push/pull tyre and see if there is any play. Then inspect all your bushes and go from there. Bushes are something i would do myself and i could write on a postage stamp what i know about mechanical work. The other thing you need to consider is replacing your front tyres . If you replace bushes and get a alignment done and use those tyres your alignment will not last very long as the worn tyres will pull again

 

[Pegleg]

One thing i feel i have to add. Tyres and brakes are the two things on your car that can save your life or kill you. You can cut corners on some things but never tyres and brakes.

Always buy the best.

Always regularly inspect both.

Always keep both fully maintained.

Always use and fit the best.

Always use the best expert fitters.

Always follow the guidelines from tyre manufacturer with PSI even if that means going the extra mile and contacting tyre manufacturer.

Yes it may cost more money, time, and effort but you have to ask yourself;

How much is your life worth

How much is it going to cost to repair your smashed up Mustang.

 

[Hemikiller]

Lots of good info in the articles on this page.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/1503-how-to-set-the-alignment-on-1967-1973-ford-mustangs/

With radial tires, the more caster you can get without rubbing, the better. It keeps the car tracking straight at highway speeds.

Of course, the best alignment is worthless if your front end is loose or worn out....

 

[Pegleg]

Lots of good info in the articles on this page.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/1503-how-to-set-the-alignment-on-1967-1973-ford-mustangs/

With radial tires, the more caster you can get without rubbing, the better. It keeps the car tracking straight at highway speeds.

Of course, the best alignment is worthless if your front end is loose or worn out....

Great article; I do have a question for the mechanics in the room. The article states;

"03. Our ’69 subject is currently at 3 1/2 degrees of caster on the driver side and 3 3/4 degrees on the passenger side. That’s totally acceptable; especially since this is a power steering–equipped car (more caster requires more steering effort). Miko generally likes to see at least 2 1/4 degrees on the driver side and 2 1/2 degrees on the passenger side—more caster on the passenger side to account for typical road crown".

So would the 3 1/2 and 3 3/4 degree change if i am driving on the U.K left hand side of the road as opposed the U.S.A right hand side. Article states on the one hand difference is because of power steering unit position but then goes on to say the road camber is the reason. :huh: :chin:

 

[Don C]

Yes, road crown is the reason, either have the left side with 1/4° more caster, or have them the same, for you guys that drive on the wrong side of the road

I also like a little less camber on the downhill side for the same reason.