Floorpan replacement

[bill diehl]

Has anybody utilized a 69/70 full floorpan in the 71/73? or, does anybody know when the dynacorn 71/73 full pan will become available?

I know the ribbing is not correct on the earlier model, I do not care about that though.

On another thought, what kind of hassle am I looking at if I install the complete full floor/trunk from a 69/70 into a 71/73? Dimentionaly they look the same. The trunk/gas tank is differant but again, that does not concern me

 

[mustang7173]

bill diehl

CJ's Pony Parts plus other mustang parts vendors carry the full length and short floor pans for the 1971 - 1973 Mustangs.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/catalog/category/view/category/10000000/id/3/?product_applications_year=672&product_type=253

The 1969 -1970 full floor pan would not be considered due to the seat holes in the pan plus, it is not really designed for the 71 - 73 mustangs. Probably, the recommend solution would be to remove the seat platforms and replace the floor pans with the full length ones. I would recommend to research through the Chassis, Body Repair, and Paint threads to see what other forums members have done. I used the full length due to rust between the floor pan and the seat platform pan.

Thanks,

mustang7173

 

[bill diehl]

Thanks, I am aware of those, but I was talking about replacing the "entire" floorpan tunnel assembly as one piece.

 

[mustang7173]

bill diehl,

OK! So I found this website with the full floor pan. They state that it will fit all years with front pan modifications for 1969 thru 1973. It looks like it would be a bear to do. It would make it one piece just like the factory installation. Anything is possible, though.

http://www.c2cfabrication.com/store/1964-73-mustang-coupe-full-floor-pan/

Let us know which solution you go after.

mustang7173

 

[judge]

I have installed the multi year pan in a 71many years back. IMO it would be a big mistake to put one in now, since the ones with correct contours are available. To make it not look butchered takes many extra hours work.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

What are you trying to accomplish? Why do you wish to use these parts? It might be a good idea for a very particular purpose, but in general, it is not the preferred way to make a repair.

If your transmission tunnel is in good shape, there is no reason to remove it. If it is beyond salvage- the car better be something special to spend the money to restore it cause it likely has lots of other issues. If it is a special car, the wrong parts will be a big negative.

Again, it might be justified for some particular purposes, so I'm not saying it is always a bad idea, but I have to wonder why?

 

[bill diehl]

It is an NHRA stock Boss 351 combo, so...while it needs to be stock appearing it does not have to be concourse correct.

I am more concerned with having new metal to attach my suspension too.

With that being said...I know Dynacorn has the floor in the works, just a matter of time but I don't want to wait forever.

My fab skills would make it a piece of cake for me to install the early floor in the car (those that know me would verify)

I was just wondering if anybody else done the install and what points they can share and what not to do

Thanks

bill diehl,

OK! So I found this website with the full floor pan. They state that it will fit all years with front pan modifications for 1969 thru 1973. It looks like it would be a bear to do. It would make it one piece just like the factory installation. Anything is possible, though.

http://www.c2cfabrication.com/store/1964-73-mustang-coupe-full-floor-pan/

Let us know which solution you go after.

mustang7173

That is the pan I am referring too, available from various vendors or this, I like better......

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=FTP69+01&Category=Body&subCategory=Floor%2FTrunk%2FSeat+Pans&SubSubCategory=One+Piece+Floor+Pans&CatKey=EMUSTANG

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

wow! that complete floor would be nice to work with! If you are racing it I can see the advantage to starting a build with something like that.

 

[Qcode351mach]

It is an NHRA stock Boss 351 combo, so...while it needs to be stock appearing it does not have to be concourse correct.

I am more concerned with having new metal to attach my suspension too.

That is the pan I am referring too, available from various vendors or this, I like better......

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=FTP69+01&Category=Body&subCategory=Floor%2FTrunk%2FSeat+Pans&SubSubCategory=One+Piece+Floor+Pans&CatKey=EMUSTANG

If your looking for rigidity chassis stiffing personally I wouldn't waste my time with the floorpan your looking at.. a better approach is to install the convertible inner rockers torque boxes full floor pan http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/261051178917 center reinforcement..It's a common mod for high performance vintage mustangs..add a set of subframe connecters & your good to go heres how it's done just substitute the parts for 71-73 all available http://www.streetortrack.com/Installing-convertible-rockers-into-a-65-68-p-14.html

wow! that complete floor would be nice to work with! If you are racing it I can see the advantage to starting a build with something like that.

Not really..It still a stock floor that offers nothing in the way of stiffing the chassis lots of extra work for no gain.

 

[bill diehl]

It is an NHRA stock Boss 351 combo, so...while it needs to be stock appearing it does not have to be concourse correct.

I am more concerned with having new metal to attach my suspension too.

That is the pan I am referring too, available from various vendors or this, I like better......

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=FTP69+01&Category=Body&subCategory=Floor%2FTrunk%2FSeat+Pans&SubSubCategory=One+Piece+Floor+Pans&CatKey=EMUSTANG

If your looking for rigidity chassis stiffing personally I wouldn't waste my time with the floorpan your looking at.. a better approach is to install the convertible inner rockers torque boxes full floor pan http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/261051178917 center reinforcement..It's a common mod for high performance vintage mustangs..add a set of subframe connecters & your good to go heres how it's done just substitute the parts for 71-73 all available http://www.streetortrack.com/Installing-convertible-rockers-into-a-65-68-p-14.html

wow! that complete floor would be nice to work with! If you are racing it I can see the advantage to starting a build with something like that.

Not really..It still a stock floor that offers nothing in the way of stiffing the chassis lots of extra work for no gain.

Thanks for the tips, but it is a nice easy way to replace the 40 year old rusty floor I am starting with

 

[judge]

The difference in the floors is primarily in the ribs and where they are located

The early floor has wider ribs that will overlap your under floor rails. The overlapping is about three inches on each side, just hammer flat, shrink it if possible. Weld up the clean out holes on the front. Grind flat on bottom then install. The top can be cleaned up after the install.

 

[Qcode351mach]

Thanks for the tips, but it is a nice easy way to replace the 40 year old rusty floor I am starting with

Exactly..the procedure I outlined does the full floor including the tunnel..they just didn't do that on the sot link since the floors were good..Just mod the procedure a bit..Jig the car..cut out the entire floor..media blast..epoxy prime..use the vert parts..

 

[bill diehl]

Thanks guys....I am in the slow tedious water/sandblasting process now. (Judge, looks like I need the top of the drives doorpost also, the cowl rust got into the a pillar on both sides although I may be able to fab a small piece for the drivers side as its not to bad...not sure yet, I will let you know in a few days)

also there is a lot of damage (dents) on both frame rails from previous owner jacking, or using jackstands both front and back. thats why I am considering full floor trunk section with rails and all so its nice, pretty and strong. The back half, trunk section , wheelwells, quarters all in good shape though, just need to be blasted

The car will have a 4130 cage so I most likely just going to cut the damaged sections of rail and replace with round tube 4130 subframe connectors anyway. ( so, should be no issue with the early style floor ribbing)

Still debating on just wether to install a complete 25-3 cage and be done with it....I don't want it to look liked a hacked up drag car, I want it to look like a stock Boss that goes fast...LOL

BTW....all the new replacement parts are going to be tig welded in, sheetmetal and all, same way I did my last car

 

[judge]

I have drivers side also. I'll send pics to p-email. I can't upload to this site.

 

[83slimer]

check out my posts I'm currently installing a goodmark 64-68 floor and have modified it to fit my 73, cost me 400 Canadian instead of 1400$ from the US for the correct 71-73 one. Test fit it last night fits very well.