I can get you a scanned copy of the Ford manual if you like.
Brakes are one of the easiest repair jobs on a car to do. There are not a lot of lube points on brakes, lol. You can purchase the packs of lube at every parts house out there.
I have been doing brake jobs since I was a boy, lol, helped dad and I am 70 and still do them.
Yes do get you a set of line wrenches.
When you jack up the front of the vehicle do not jack under the front cross member. Always jack under the front of the rocker box where the torque box is located.
You should also put a 2 X 4 block of wood under the upper control arm on top of the frame in the area show in this pic. in red rectangle. This stops the coil spring from pinching the rubber bushing on the upper shock mount and splitting it.
The pistons inside the calipers are chrome plated and might have been replaced with a type of plastic piston. They usually clean up nice. You can rebuild yours unless there are rust pits inside the bore of the caliper. It is tricky getting the dust boots back on but you can do with no special tools.
Like stated you should replace the hoses if original. You need to pump all the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder, lines and get fresh fluid in before installing your new or rebuilt calipers.
You can purchase a kit that gives you new clips and screws cheap for the disc brakes.
You should also have your calipers turned by someone with a brake lathe. I have my own so you just want to take as little as possible. There is a minimum thickness for the caliper and will be marked on it.
You should go ahead and check the rear brakes also the wheel cylinders are cheap and is also a pretty easy job. Getting the ebrake loose and back on is about the most difficult part.
If you ever do a brake job and do not unhook the hose do not let the caliper hang by the hose. Use a metal coat hanger and make you a hook to hang it by.
If you unhook the brake lines they have copper washers to seal off the surface for sure replace them.
If you put anti seize on your brake line threads do not get it inside the hose or line. It contains aluminum, copper or sometimes glass beads and is not good inside the brake system.
I use Black Charcoal Grill paint on my brake parts.
The brakes on this car a 73 vert had been done 25 years before and not driven. I did take apart cleaned everything put new pins and clips on the calipers, rebuilt the calipers and painted and put back on. The master cylinder was bad due to rust so had to replace it. You can hone and get by or send off to have bronze sleeve added.
Just do one side at a time or take lots of reference pics.
Yes use torque wrench unless you do these every day then most do not.
One thing people do wrong is to put their wheels on and not use a torque wrench on them You should always torque your wheel lugs. Easy to warp a good disc if you do not.
Had a friend call the other day from Toyota dealer in a panic. They were doing free tire rotation and told her if she did not do a $200 brake job on the rear today it might cost $400 in a couple weeks. I asked if brakes were making any noise and she said no. So I told here to tell them to put the tires back on and leave. She went by parts house got new pads came over and I changed them in 30 min.. There was still 1/8" of pad left and no danger of ruining anything. The Toyota dealership had tightened the wheels way too tight in an attempt to warp her discs to make her come back. I could not break the lugs loose without jumping on the wrench. Aluminum wheels have a machined surface so more difficult to warp the disc. A steel wheel does not have a machined surface so easier to warp.
That was the first Toyota 4 runner I had ever done and 30 min. and $25.00 in parts.
