- Joined
- Jun 27, 2013
- Messages
- 397
- Reaction score
- 155
- Location
- Zimmerman, MN 55398
- My Car
- 1973 Mach 1
1980 Bronco
A couple modern Fords
HAha, yup came a day early according to USPS! Thanks again man. Hopefully it's up and running soon.Hey, that carb looks familiar........I cant believe it got there already. I'll see if I have a photo for you of how I had my Edelbrock line routed but it was nothing fancy. I just had the fuel line in front of the carb and then to the inlet.
Don't forget to put a ground wire on the electric choke.
I never thought about it breaking....good point. But this car has been sitting so long I just want to get it driving again. If I get it all squared away, I'll probably spend a few bucks and get a better setup going.Fredensborg,
First thing would be to get rid of the glass fuel filter. If that gets broken, it will blow fuel all over the place. You could get a nice 3/8 fuel lines and then insert the fuel line into the Thermal Heat shield HP Color Sleeve to protect the hose from the engine heat.
https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive/thermal-and-heat-shield-sleeving/hp-color-sleeve
mustang7173
Thanks. Not shown is a metal inline filter I use between the apron and pump on the inlet side. The benefit is it is easily change on a regular basis, but I may switch that to install after the pump as was suggested. To do that, I will need to change the entire tube or make a new double flare with an adaptor as I can't find a small metal filter similar to the stock type that screws into the Autolite carb, for 3/8th" hose. I would need to go from 5/16th to 3/8 as it presently stands.Wow. That is the exact route I am planning to run mine. Not to mention I have the same tubing bender as well. Looks great!
Thank you. I hoped it might offer some suggestions as to how to route your new fuel line. Basically, you'll need to extend past where mine meets the Holley inlet and figure out your connection. PLEASE, make sure everything is tight and secure before pumping fuel and have someone watch while you're firing it up. I nearly burned my car up when I put the Holley inlet on without someone there to watch for leaks. Could have been a really bad day!!Those custom bent lines look nice! I'll definitely be upgrading my set up!
Thank you too. Still room for improvement though. FYI, it took a 30" length of tube with the inverted flare nuts already on, but I cut one off to attach the rubber vibration tube/connector to pump.Stanglover,
Very Very Nice looking tube routing!
mustang7173
Eric, I do not agree with the use of plastic filter either. While definitely safer than glass, they can break or even melt. OK so you can't see through a steel inline and generally they are bigger, but when you've dumped a ton of money into your ride, why take a chance. But that's just me I guess, I'm not about to risk a 50K car over a $4 filter. Also while I'm at it, I do NOT use worm gear clamps other than for set up and or testing. Not only are they UGLY, they can fail when least expected. I use factory style tower clamps or when appropriate, the spring type as supplied with the filter and replace when changing a filter.To plumb my Edelbrock 1406, I used the included (I think) pick-up elbow and bought a Mr. Gasket fuel pressure gauge, a Holley fuel pressure regulator, a clear plastic-cased inline fuel filter, and pretty much used the original line... although somewhat trimmed to line-up with the extra inline 'features.' I also went with an electric fuel pump, so right about where the fuel pump block-off plate is, the frame fuel line just connects directly to the engine fuel line with some bubble flares, worm-screw clamps, and EFI fuel line.
So far, so good... but of course, it all goes out the window when I install the fuel injection (Edelbrock as well, of course). :whistling:
OK, if it's out of the way, I see your point. It's when they get placed on top of the intake, I worry.:goodpost:
Thanks! I can respect your opinion, and I'm not offering any arguments either - your points are sound, and make perfect sense. I think I forgot to mention that the filter is pretty much right where the fuel pump block-off plate is, and having ran the engine while observing with a laser thermometer - with average temps in that area at just about 150F, I'm pretty sure it's in no danger of melting. (knocking on a wooden surface, just in case )
True when they are used correctly, but they still look UGLY!!I've never had any issues with worm-screw clamps failing or otherwise, however, I have had to fix someone else's worm-screw clamps, though on other previously-owned vehicles I've had (over-tightened and mangled the hoses, stripped out the threads, etc.) - I think we've all had vehicles where we've had to undo the sins of the previous owners before they were up to our standards. ::thumb::
The new EFI set-ups are really the way to go. Most of us use new carbs anyway and an EFI unit doesn't look much different, but a whole lot more efficient. It's the cost that stops me from going that route.... until I win the lottery!Besides, the Edelbrock E-Street EFI will be eliminating every bit of my plumbing job from the front frame rail fuel line to the TBI with pre-fabbed EFI lines using AN fittings. That's intended to be happening probably within the next few months, after I get some spring cleaning things done and out of the way.
But yeah - I'm right there with ya not wanting to risk it all on "iffy" components.
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