Having problems starting the Alumium Headed 521

[BigPinoyHunk]

confirmed: my old MSD coil was bad and was one of the reasons why it didn't want to start. my friend texted me back saying that he started his car with his accel coil and it would run just fine. then install my coil and he tried starting it three times and there was absolutely nothing. reinstall his coil and it fires right up. weird isn't it?!?!?! however, i did verify before that there was spark coming out of the coil but it was weak compared to y cheap pertronix one. so this confirms, i had a bad coil.

now i gotta order a new MSD non oil filled coil and a maybe a non spread/square bore spacer.

so that's that folks!

Good to hear!!! Simple solution. Just remember when buying the coil that get a coil that the manufacturer of your ignition module (box) recommends to get correct resistance etc. Just wait until the engine has 2000 miles, it's all opened up and ready to race!

I am also on the search for a coil, since I noticed yesterday that mine has puked the oils out. Now, it must be the bigblock?!?

yeah, i saw one from MSD that is resin filled instead of oil so i'll try that one. also, i'm going to try to really grind off the ears that coming close to carb accel pump and maybe even silicone the gasket to ensure a seal at the beginning of the gasket so it won't even have a chance to leak.

i did see in another site, that the spread/square bore combo spacers leak like crazy.

 

[mustang7173]

Olie,

Finally! It is nice when you find a solution to the issue. Now, for the spacer, check out this Trans-Dapt Performance Swirl-Torque Carburetor Spacers 2532. It is 2 inches thick and has grooves cut into to create a swirl that will atomize your fuel air mixture for better burns. Also, that spacer plate you have, is , well, I do not like them since the carb stud did not run all the way through. The one below would give you a solid mount.

Trans-Dapt Performance Swirl-Torque Carburetor Spacers 2532

mustang7173

 

[MotoArts]

Olie,

Two nevers...

- Never use those spread bore adapters for anything but landfill.

- Never RTV a gasket that is related to raw fuel, such as carburetor, base, or intake gaskets.

The RTV will turn to snot.

From experience.

 

[BigPinoyHunk]

Olie,

Two nevers...

- Never use those spread bore adapters for anything but landfill.

- Never RTV a gasket that is related to raw fuel, such as carburetor, base, or intake gaskets.

The RTV will turn to snot.

From experience.

yeah, looks like i should be getting a phenonlic plastic spacer thats not a dual spread/square bore. along with a good coil.

 

[wwhite72]

When i installed a new MSD epoxy coil it solved all my engine problems. The previous MSD oil filled failed for some reason. MSD mentioned a few possible causes but wouldnt say which was most likely. I suspect he real reason is that it was made in china.

 

[BigPinoyHunk]

yeah i am hoping a better coil will solve one of my issues, therefore, i ordered a new MSD epoxy filled coil from summit racing along with a phenolic spacer that isn't a spreadbore adapter as well. those two items along should solve my issues. i also ordered just in case the RTV header gasket doesn't work out, i order reusable copper gaskets for the headers. its kind of pricey but i did order a coolant filter as well.

i'm getting excited about coming home in a week.

 

[wwhite72]

Sounds like a great project. Hellava mill you got there! I look forward to hearing how it runs down the road!

 

[1FM05]

After all the complaints i have been reading about MSD coils going bad, I wonder if they had any quality issues. I had a brand new MSD BLasterII coil on my 545 and it failed. It puked out all the oil only after a few hours of run time. I too got a MSD epoxy filled high vibration coil to replace it. Glad to see you fixed it. You will enjoy the few more cubes.

 

[BigPinoyHunk]

After all the complaints i have been reading about MSD coils going bad, I wonder if they had any quality issues. I had a brand new MSD BLasterII coil on my 545 and it failed. It puked out all the oil only after a few hours of run time. I too got a MSD epoxy filled high vibration coil to replace it. Glad to see you fixed it. You will enjoy the few more cubes.

yup, i ordered that same MSD ignition one! i will install it when i get home next week and it should be at home today. i also ordered the phenolic spacer to go with it so it ain't hitting my accelerator screws. i also decided i needed a coolant filter since all kinds of crap flows thru there. and since my tube is so close to my oil pan drain and i might not be able to clearance it enough to pull it out, i decided to get reusable copper header gaskets. i can loosen all 8 bolts and let header floppy as long as its still on and pull the header to the side so i can drain my oil. pain in the butt though. next time the motor is out for a overhaul, i'll have the drain plug relocated.

i hope to love the addition 61 inches!!

 

[1FM05]

I ran into a similar problem with the header coming close the the oil pan drain plug bolt. You might try getting a button head socket cap screw. It has a lower head profile than a hex bolt and you can use a ball end allen wrench to get it at an angle. It worked for me.

 

[BigPinoyHunk]

coming home tomorrow however its memorial day weekend and i'm trying to get into a bigger vehicle so it might get put behind until sunday to fix it.

 

[BigPinoyHunk]

got home thursday night and installed the items below. i also decided to start filtering my coolant since my radiator is starting to be 9 years old.

got it started yesterday with no symptom of a vacuum leak now. however it was hard to start due to timing. i nailed down the timing to 11initial and 27 total. still kind of hard to start so i had to back out the idle mixture screws more than 2 turns (kind of alot but i do have 96 and 104 jets). that worked pretty good but i was opening the primary throtle plates too much. i called up Scotty J and he said to adjust secondary throttle plates too. and now it works and idles like a angry tiger. it'll idle at 1100rpms and is begging to go out for a drive.

i just need to adjust the clutch alot more and then take her to get some exhaust work.

 

[BigPinoyHunk]

those parts for her running good. i adjust timing at 11 initial and 27 total and she is giving me about 8 inch of vacuum. to get it to actually idle, i had to adjust the secondary blades and not just the primary. it might be time to get prosystem to drill those holes bigger in the blades.

now i got to figure out why its running so hot. builder did tell me that on alumium heads that they dissipate the heat into hte coolant. it feels like the thermostat is opening but i could be wrong or it could just be partially opening. i wanted to run straight water but i don't want that corrosion so i ran about 25 percent coolant and 75 water. i don't know if thats creating the whole issue but people run staright water all the time at the track.

however, i can't really get the motor to idle on its own until it warms up anyways. unless i play with the idle some, it won't idle on its own until it gets warm then it'll idle at 1100rpms.

thoughts?

 

[TommyK]

those parts for her running good. i adjust timing at 11 initial and 27 total and she is giving me about 8 inch of vacuum. to get it to actually idle, i had to adjust the secondary blades and not just the primary. it might be time to get prosystem to drill those holes bigger in the blades.

now i got to figure out why its running so hot. builder did tell me that on alumium heads that they dissipate the heat into hte coolant. it feels like the thermostat is opening but i could be wrong or it could just be partially opening. i wanted to run straight water but i don't want that corrosion so i ran about 25 percent coolant and 75 water. i don't know if thats creating the whole issue but people run staright water all the time at the track.

however, i can't really get the motor to idle on its own until it warms up anyways. unless i play with the idle some, it won't idle on its own until it gets warm then it'll idle at 1100rpms.

thoughts?

I think you need more initial timing so you can close the throttle blades some. More initial will also help it run cooler. Did Scott give you the initial and total timing figures from the dyno run?

 

[Finmach]

those parts for her running good. i adjust timing at 11 initial and 27 total and she is giving me about 8 inch of vacuum. to get it to actually idle, i had to adjust the secondary blades and not just the primary. it might be time to get prosystem to drill those holes bigger in the blades.

now i got to figure out why its running so hot. builder did tell me that on alumium heads that they dissipate the heat into hte coolant. it feels like the thermostat is opening but i could be wrong or it could just be partially opening. i wanted to run straight water but i don't want that corrosion so i ran about 25 percent coolant and 75 water. i don't know if thats creating the whole issue but people run staright water all the time at the track.

however, i can't really get the motor to idle on its own until it warms up anyways. unless i play with the idle some, it won't idle on its own until it gets warm then it'll idle at 1100rpms.

thoughts?

I think you need more initial timing so you can close the throttle blades some. More initial will also help it run cooler. Did Scott give you the initial and total timing figures from the dyno run?

plus what Tommy says, lean running engine also gets warmer. New tight piston rings against bored&honed cylinders creates more heat than it does after 1000 miles. You can test the thermostat in a pan with water how does it opens or does it. It's not uncommon that a new thermostat won't work as is should.

 

[BigPinoyHunk]

those parts for her running good. i adjust timing at 11 initial and 27 total and she is giving me about 8 inch of vacuum. to get it to actually idle, i had to adjust the secondary blades and not just the primary. it might be time to get prosystem to drill those holes bigger in the blades.

now i got to figure out why its running so hot. builder did tell me that on alumium heads that they dissipate the heat into hte coolant. it feels like the thermostat is opening but i could be wrong or it could just be partially opening. i wanted to run straight water but i don't want that corrosion so i ran about 25 percent coolant and 75 water. i don't know if thats creating the whole issue but people run staright water all the time at the track.

however, i can't really get the motor to idle on its own until it warms up anyways. unless i play with the idle some, it won't idle on its own until it gets warm then it'll idle at 1100rpms.

thoughts?

I think you need more initial timing so you can close the throttle blades some. More initial will also help it run cooler. Did Scott give you the initial and total timing figures from the dyno run?

scott ran 28 total advance at the dyno. he said 30 will make a little bit more HP but less TQ. with 28 total i should be seeing 12 initial or 14 with 30 total.

all in all, i am pretty close to what it needs to be.

those parts for her running good. i adjust timing at 11 initial and 27 total and she is giving me about 8 inch of vacuum. to get it to actually idle, i had to adjust the secondary blades and not just the primary. it might be time to get prosystem to drill those holes bigger in the blades.

now i got to figure out why its running so hot. builder did tell me that on alumium heads that they dissipate the heat into hte coolant. it feels like the thermostat is opening but i could be wrong or it could just be partially opening. i wanted to run straight water but i don't want that corrosion so i ran about 25 percent coolant and 75 water. i don't know if thats creating the whole issue but people run staright water all the time at the track.

however, i can't really get the motor to idle on its own until it warms up anyways. unless i play with the idle some, it won't idle on its own until it gets warm then it'll idle at 1100rpms.

thoughts?

I think you need more initial timing so you can close the throttle blades some. More initial will also help it run cooler. Did Scott give you the initial and total timing figures from the dyno run?

plus what Tommy says, lean running engine also gets warmer. New tight piston rings against bored&honed cylinders creates more heat than it does after 1000 miles. You can test the thermostat in a pan with water how does it opens or does it. It's not uncommon that a new thermostat won't work as is should.

i am starting to expect the thermostat isn't quite opening very much because once the water flows thru the top radiator hose ( i had a coolant filter and i can see fluid passing thru) but when i pinch the hose before the radiator there isn't much resistance in pinching the hose. however i do have another 160 stat and i do have 3 different size thermostat restrictor plates.

or should i drain some of the water and add more radiator fluid?

 

[TommyK]

I think you need to further limit the mechanical advance so you can run more initial and still maintain the 28 degree total. I would run at least 16 initial and it would not surprise me if it wanted more. Many guys are running locked advance mechanisms on combos like yours. Is the distributor you are using now the same one the engine was dyno'd with?

 

[BigPinoyHunk]

Yes same dizzy as synopsis. The dizzy is a durspark so it has a 8 weight which is the smallest. It'll give u 16 more advance Max.

Ill try 14in n 30 total.

 

[BigPinoyHunk]

just wanted to report back saying the issue the whole was the vacuum leak with the spacer and the coil and now the motor runs really well.

i'm swapping in another dizzy from RHP to give me more initial and less tot advance.

i do however don't have powerbrakes at idle and the vacuum tank isn't helping either so i might as well go a larger cam and use a vacuum pump.

motor did good at its first time out at the track. on the 6th its out to eat some chevy's at "ford vs chevy" night!