How much does a 351C Block weigh

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Well, considering everything, I think I'll just push her back out of the garage and borrow a hoist from the school. With the troubles I'm having removing the dad blasted tranny cool, I'll need to pull it to swap the cams anyway. Not to mention the trouble with the harmonic balancer removal. Grrr.....:mad:

Doc
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Doc then you can clean and paint engine bay it will be worth it.

 
The best kind of engine crane is one that belongs to a buddy. Find a friend who has a engine crane you can borrow. My friends are always glad to let me "store" their engine cranes for them even if it is only for a few days/weeks.

Using the raftors sounds a bit too scary for me. I've already experienced a transmission falling on me, I really don't want to try an engine for size.

 
LOL... I agree. I'm pretty sure I can borrow one. I'll let you know.

Doc
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Doc I would lend you mine if you where closer. Mike
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I know you would, Mike. Instead, I'll be asking for you to share your wisdom once I get 'er pulled and start replacing parts and such while pulling my hair out. :)

Doc

 
Jumping on this string a little late, but in case anyone is still interested...

I just rebuilt my 351C this last summer and weighed the bare block. It was 180Lbs. Full long block with aluminum heads and intake was about 400lbs. If you have cast heads (add 70lbs) and cast intake (add 30lbs) you're looking somewhere around 500lbs +/- a few.

 
Jumping on this string a little late, but in case anyone is still interested...

I just rebuilt my 351C this last summer and weighed the bare block. It was 180Lbs. Full long block with aluminum heads and intake was about 400lbs. If you have cast heads (add 70lbs) and cast intake (add 30lbs) you're looking somewhere around 500lbs +/- a few.
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:goodpost: thanks

 
Just dragging up an old thread that had a big influence on me and my restoration of the 73vertproject. Mach71351c - if you're out there (and I trust you are) - your encouragement is missed. To all, I'm preparing for the summer month-long hiatus to Montana. More in another post. I hope to be heading out on June 14. Eight days until school is out! dancebanana::chili::dancebanana



True, true, true. My greatest fear is having to sell her as a great chassis and 1000 drivetrain pieces for $1000. Yikes! :p

Doc
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We at this site will not let that happen.
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This was the original post that put everything into perspective with this website. So, I guess it's Mike's fault after all. :)

 
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I bumped in a couple of years ago to a Ford Engine Weight Detail reports. According the reports I combined three engine weights to the same "page" so they can be compared easily.

Moottorienpainovertailu11.jpg


Left side has the standard 351c 2v, 427 FE and 429 thunder jet. The right colums there are used aluminium heads, aluminium intake and aluminium waterpump for all the three engines. I had my friends to scale all the parts, like a true FE waterpump&manifold, cleveland parts, I scaled 429 parts etc. Everything is pretty close if the factory report is correct though. Feel free to comment!!! Standard 4v 351w is about 9 lbs lighter than the 351c 2V. There is commonly a false number for the 429/460 weight, its allmost allways somewhere +700 lbs. That weight is incorrect, it is though taken from the same engine detail reports but it includes everything that the engine needs to work, like radiotor, fluids, hoses... you get the picture?

 
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What a great chart, Finmach. Would you mind if we post it in the Data section of this website? Thanks for posting it!
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Feel free to use it! I am honored. I'll update it someday with English text at the right colums, so you can replace this existing one with the local language!! I am happy if the chart helps someone!

You might also notice that I left the headers out of the right colums due to wide variety of headers.

 
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Thanks, guys, for the info. I'll let you know what I decide, with scary pictures if it comes to that. :p

Doc
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Doc,

You can use a rafter, most rafters are 2x8's(I'm a contractor & have designed & built many structures) The key question is the SPAN of the rafter...Heres a caculator that will help

http://www.decks.com/Calculators/JoistSpan.aspx

All you need to do is double up the rafter you plan to use... you only need to double up the width of the car & make sure the the 4x4's are placed under the doubled up rafter..Then use 2 lag bolts every 12 inches....Then get 2-4x4's ..2-cap baseshttp://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/BC.asp#gallery

Run the 4x4's on each side of the car from the floor up to the rafter & screw to the rafter with deck screws. You will have no problem hanging that motor since all the weight will now be transfered to the 4x4's and floor.

Scott
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I like this. Not planning on yanking a ton of motors, just one. Take the 4x4's out if needed when done. Nice idea Q.

 
2x4 doublers could be stronger, lighter and easier to set up as jack studs. probably cheaper to buy and lighter to transport home. Make it corners if you really want strength. And screws come out easier than nails if you plan to break them down afterwards. Did some framing when i when a younger man.

 

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