Interior Restoration New vs Original

[YellowHorse]

My car currently has original entirior, with newer carpet. Plastic bits (center panel gauge cluster, shifter) chrome trim on the plastic is worn out.

Should I try to respray chrome and black plastic or buy aftermarket - is it worth beight original and a bit dull vs nice and fresh when it comes to value of the car and resale?

Seats I am planning to repair, as they have misconstrued weave which you can not get exact.

 

[tpj71mach]

My car currently has original entirior, with newer carpet. Plastic bits (center panel gauge cluster, shifter) chrome trim on the plastic is worn out.

Should I try to respray chrome and black plastic or buy aftermarket - is it worth beight original and a bit dull vs nice and fresh when it comes to value of the car and resale?

Seats I am planning to repair, as they have misconstrued weave which you can not get exact.

I always try to refinish original rather than go with reproduction if possible.

 

[MikeGriese]

A lot depends on the condition of the rest of the car. My personal opinion is I look for consistency in a car. If it all looks like the same age, I have a better time evaluating overall condition and the value of the car to me. There are exceptions for maintenance parts, etc., but if there is shiny paint with a rusty engine compartment, corners have been cut. I guess what I am trying to say is would the new part look out of place in the context of the rest of the car?

Reproduction parts are getting much better for our cars and are a good option. There are also some excellent refinishers for things like door panels, dash pads and the plastic bits in our interiors. It really comes down to cost and the condition of your original parts. The refinishers can fix cracks, replace broken or spread screw posts, replate and repaint - all for a price. The better your old part, the better and less expensive the refurbishment will be.

 

[Mister 4x4]

My original parts had all sorts of issues - namely, several of the mounting points on the backside were broken off... otherwise, I might've tried to restore them.



I just got reproduction parts from Ohio Mustang and National Parts Depot. There's not a fool-proof method of restoring the chrome for the DIY guy - to get the chrome restored properly, you'll need to send the pieces off to be restored (DIY 'chrome' restoration products are basically paint of some sort, not plating as from the factory - the chrome paint never seems to fully cure into the shiny plating-level of quality, and tends to come off/dull-out once it spends time in the heat).






Mine's a restomod, so I took some liberty and replaced the woodgrain vinyl with black carbon fiber vinyl. I also replaced the OE style loop carpet with cut-pile, and swapped out the factory upholstery with TMI Sport Seat upholstery from CJ Pony Parts (much more comfy seats), along with upgrading the instrument cluster clock to a tachometer from Rocketman Custom Cougar Innovations. You can see how bad mine was in the top pic... about the only things re-used in my interior are the seat frames, metal parts of the dashboard, headliner and door opening trim pieces, and the headlight/wiper/defroster/lighter bezels - everything else is reproduction. Only 7173 enthusiasts will be able to tell the original from the repops - everybody else just thinks it looks good for its age. It's not perfect, but everything fits well, and it's good enough for me.

If your car is in very good condition and you're keeping it stock (to preserve its originality and potential resale value as a 'survivor') you might consider sending them off for restoration. But if you're just wanting it to be nice again (and not concerned about originality), the repop parts are a good way to go, and might even be a bit cheaper than getting the original parts restored.

Hope this helps!

 

[71ProjectJunk]

As Mr. 4x4 said, the biggest issue with plastic dash bezel, center console bezel, and the passenger side bezel is the chrome. You really cannot make that look fresh again without sending it out to be professionally done. When I get to the interior of my car I will be buying the repro stuff. Sending the original parts to be professionally redone will cost as much or more than just getting new ones.

 

[YellowHorse]

Thank you all replies.
Car does not have original paint, the rest is (aside from radio, which I was considering buying).
Painting myself, chrome will no going to be as shiny as repro. But will be cohesive. Now days you can buy paint that is fairly close to real chrome. Maybe I will buy spare panel and try out.

 

[YellowHorse]

I am planning to send out stearing wheel for repair/rebuild...even though it cost quite a bit ($650) just because its unique.

 

[RC92234]

View attachment 67398

View attachment 67399

And... Vans are the perfect shoe (lol)

 

[Hemikiller]

Did you check with SMS Fabrics about the Comfortweave?

The door panels and other plastic parts I would clean, prep and respray with SEM Colorcoat interior paint. NPD has the correct metallic black for the metal dash frame.

I used the Molotow chrome paint pen on the chrome for the dash panel trims. I found it to produce an acceptable finish, far better than spending significant money on the reproductions. It does take a bit to get the technique down, but once you do, the chrome flows out nicely. It looks a million times better than the failing chrome, and the time and money invested was minimal. The black was repainted with DE1634 Low Gloss Black engine paint from Duplicolor. I have maybe $20 in refurbishing all three panels.

 

[YellowHorse]

Did you check with SMS Fabrics about the Comfortweave?

The door panels and other plastic parts I would clean, prep and respray with SEM Colorcoat interior paint. NPD has the correct metallic black for the metal dash frame.

I used the Molotow chrome paint pen on the chrome for the dash panel trims. I found it to produce an acceptable finish, far better than spending significant money on the reproductions. It does take a bit to get the technique down, but once you do, the chrome flows out nicely. It looks a million times better than the failing chrome, and the time and money invested was minimal. The black was repainted with DE1634 Low Gloss Black engine paint from Duplicolor. I have maybe $20 in refurbishing all three panels.

View attachment 67433

I was not aware of fabric being awailable and my current center fabric seems to be fine. Just one seat (front passenger) needs to have a replacement side made and maybe re die them all to get them look fresh.

Your repaint looks beautiful. I was looking into waterborne chrome kits $$$ Your way is far less expensive. I know my way around spray painting, mostly use SEM products and get great results even using cans to do the whole hood - looks better then OEM finish after 2k clear.
I will start with using your suggestion on rechroming. Thanks.

 

[72MustangSprint]

I am planning to send out stearing wheel for repair/rebuild...even though it cost quite a bit ($650) just because its unique.

Where are you sending the rim blow to ?

 

[YellowHorse]

Where are you sending the rim blow to ?

Rimblowrestoration.com
$750 to restore wheel and center pad
$650 to restore just wheel.

I feel that steering wheel is the most important item in the interior of the car as its is in your hand and in front of your eyes.

 

[72MustangSprint]

Rimblowrestoration.com
$750 to restore wheel and center pad
$650 to restore just wheel.

I feel that steering wheel is the most important item in the interior of the car as its is in your hand and in front of your eyes.

I have one that’s needs to be restored and that’s where I was going to send it to.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Did you check with SMS Fabrics about the Comfortweave?

The door panels and other plastic parts I would clean, prep and respray with SEM Colorcoat interior paint. NPD has the correct metallic black for the metal dash frame.

I used the Molotow chrome paint pen on the chrome for the dash panel trims. I found it to produce an acceptable finish, far better than spending significant money on the reproductions. It does take a bit to get the technique down, but once you do, the chrome flows out nicely. It looks a million times better than the failing chrome, and the time and money invested was minimal. The black was repainted with DE1634 Low Gloss Black engine paint from Duplicolor. I have maybe $20 in refurbishing all three panels.

View attachment 67433

I use the Molotow chrome on my model kits, and the paint is good for reproducing chrome on a small scale. However, it's pretty fragile - months later it dulls out to the touch (just like most other chrome paints). I have a can of Duplicolor chrome spray paint, which does the same thing. Even if you wait a long time for the chrome paints to fully cure, and decide to protect with clear coat, it magically begins the dulling process as well.

But still, if it's an acceptable [to you] alternative, it's a good way to go - those pieces turned out awesome, HK! I use Duplicolor engine enamel for just about everything - can't go wrong, and it's VERY durable. Well Done!

Something to consider, YellowHorse: the center stack trim piece in your pictures is the 'non-Deluxe' version of the piece. The Deluxe version (that matches the rest of your interior) should also have chrome trim around each of the gauges along with the same woodgrain vinyl as the door trim panels. The 'non-Deluxe' version has the camera case finish where the woodgrain vinyl should be. Chances are, your car might not have come with the gauge package and was added later, or the previous owner replaced that trim piece with a 'non-Deluxe' piece (most likely).

That 3-spoke rim-blow wheel is a rare option for our cars, for sure. Good call on getting it restored, even though it's actually very nice even as it is (a period-style wrap cover like mine, and you wouldn't even know there was any age damage to it - just a thought). From the pics you've show so far, it looks like you have a very nice car as well. I also used the SEM Black Metallic to restore the interior parts I could get repops for - love the stuff!

Can't wait to see this all come back together.

 

[YellowHorse]

I use the Molotow chrome on my model kits, and the paint is good for reproducing chrome on a small scale. However, it's pretty fragile - months later it dulls out to the touch (just like most other chrome paints). I have a can of Duplicolor chrome spray paint, which does the same thing. Even if you wait a long time for the chrome paints to fully cure, and decide to protect with clear coat, it magically begins the dulling process as well.

But still, if it's an acceptable [to you] alternative, it's a good way to go - those pieces turned out awesome, HK! I use Duplicolor engine enamel for just about everything - can't go wrong, and it's VERY durable. Well Done!

Something to consider, YellowHorse: the center stack trim piece in your pictures is the 'non-Deluxe' version of the piece. The Deluxe version (that matches the rest of your interior) should also have chrome trim around each of the gauges along with the same woodgrain vinyl as the door trim panels. The 'non-Deluxe' version has the camera case finish where the woodgrain vinyl should be. Chances are, your car might not have come with the gauge package and was added later, or the previous owner replaced that trim piece with a 'non-Deluxe' piece (most likely).

That 3-spoke rim-blow wheel is a rare option for our cars, for sure. Good call on getting it restored, even though it's actually very nice even as it is (a period-style wrap cover like mine, and you wouldn't even know there was any age damage to it - just a thought). From the pics you've show so far, it looks like you have a very nice car as well. I also used the SEM Black Metallic to restore the interior parts I could get repops for - love the stuff!

Can't wait to see this all come back together.

What I have gathered so far is that you can get spray on chrome that looks real and it cost $450-550 to get that kit:
Hydrochrome
PCrome
I did wonder if center stack should match doors wood grain. Saw many pics of convertable with same set up (grain on doors but not on center)

Wrapping stearing and filing in cracks in plastic crossed my mid, what wrap did you use? But will not be a bling/center show ornament compared to fully restored.

 

[Hemikiller]

Something to consider, YellowHorse: the center stack trim piece in your pictures is the 'non-Deluxe' version of the piece. The Deluxe version (that matches the rest of your interior) should also have chrome trim around each of the gauges along with the same woodgrain vinyl as the door trim panels. The 'non-Deluxe' version has the camera case finish where the woodgrain vinyl should be. Chances are, your car might not have come with the gauge package and was added later, or the previous owner replaced that trim piece with a 'non-Deluxe' piece (most likely).

I did wonder if center stack should match doors wood grain. Saw many pics of convertible with same set up (grain on doors but not on center)

The convertibles came with the camera case "non-Deluxe" version for all three years. Even if one ordered the 1971-only Decor Group, the woodgrain center stack was not included. That spiffy piece was reserved for the Grande' and the Mach 1 Sports Interior optioned vehicles. The 72-73 convertibles came with the deluxe left and right dash trims and knitted vinyl seats standard, so there was no way to option them up.

 

[YellowHorse]

I will try Molotow chrome with S-02 chrome sealer (keeps it from getting dull when touching) before forking out more money for professional spray.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I will try Molotow chrome with S-02 chrome sealer (keeps it from getting dull when touching) before forking out more money for professional spray.

I'll be interested to hear how that works out for you. Like I mentioned, I like the Molotow chrome on my scale models, but any kind of handling of the chrome pieces tends to 'rub it off.' (notice the chrome fingerprints on the tires from touching the rims themselves - didn't see that coming).

What I have gathered so far is that you can get spray on chrome that looks real and it cost $450-550 to get that kit:
Hydrochrome
PCrome
I did wonder if center stack should match doors wood grain. Saw many pics of convertable with same set up (grain on doors but not on center)

Wrapping stearing and filing in cracks in plastic crossed my mid, what wrap did you use? But will not be a bling/center show ornament compared to fully restored.

I used a standard steering wheel wrap, since the black foam grip on the Grant wheel is kind of plain and not very comfortable.

This was the 'before' pic of my instrument cluster rehab (LED lights, RCCI clock/tach conversion, new 'glass'). The cover I got was for a standard sized wheel rim - the Grant's a bit thicker. I'm still looking for a wrap-style cover to fit the thicker rim.


Sorry for the confusion about the center stack trim piece. I wasn't aware that the 'verts didn't get the Deluxe 'woodgrain' piece as standard.