Leaking power steering gear box

[Steve McMahan]

Hello:

Took my car out today for its first around the block joy ride, and when I pulled into the garage, looking for leaks, I found one I thought for sure was one of the power steering hoses at the gear box. Upon further inspections, hoses looked great, so I crawled under it, and took this photo:



It appears to be leaking where the steering shaft and the rag joint are, so I assume, the seals there. Question is, is there a tightening of the nut that holds the seals in place sorta fix I could attempt first? And if no, can I replace that seal set by removing the steering shaft, etc, or, is it, remove the unit? I’m so close to getting it registered; I have an appointment, hopefully, later this month at the CHP office to have my VIN verified. If I take it apart, i suspect that plan is dead.

If I remove it, can I rebuild it myself or should I just by a rebuilt unit?

 

[Bentworker]

Hello:

Took my car out today for its first around the block joy ride, and when I pulled into the garage, looking for leaks, I found one I thought for sure was one of the power steering hoses at the gear box. Upon further inspections, hoses looked great, so I crawled under it, and took this photo:

View attachment 76514

It appears to be leaking where the steering shaft and the rag joint are, so I assume, the seals there. Question is, is there a tightening of the nut that holds the seals in place sorta fix I could attempt first? And if no, can I replace that seal set by removing the steering shaft, etc, or, is it, remove the unit? I’m so close to getting it registered; I have an appointment, hopefully, later this month at the CHP office to have my VIN verified. If I take it apart, i suspect that plan is dead.

If I remove it, can I rebuild it myself or should I just by a rebuilt unit?

The seals are retained by snap rings. Personally I’d get a good pitman arm puller and do the work on a bench. There is no packing, nothing can be tightened to reduce the leak- just need new seals, of which there are more than one on both shafts.

Look here to get an idea of what is involved to pull the box apart.
https://7173mustangs.com/threads/pl...io-spa-af-variable-ratio-firebird-12-7.25635/

 

[Stanglover]

This could open a can of worms for sure, but as Bentworker suggests, it's a bench job. By the looks of it, the entire system needs to be redone. The rag joint looks like it's original.
If it is just the input shaft, that seal is relatively easy to replace. If it's the sector shaft seals, which you don't think it is but I'll mention it anyway, then it all depends on if the shaft itself is scored and rusted pic 1613. Stripping an resealing can be done by most with good mechanical skills and a few special tools, pic 0766. There are many YouTube video's, some good others not so much. Bentworker's post is excellent, so I'll not expand on that at this time.
If I were in your shoes with a time constraint, I think I'd opt for a new PS box. I'm told RedHead offer the better options. For the rag joint (coupler) it looks like your car is non-tilt, the Lares 201 is the best option over the Scott Drake that has too short pins.

 

[Paul M]

Yep, mine started making a mess & I pulled it out and replaced that seal. Pull the snap ring, then pull up the plastic cover. Drill a hole in the seal insert a screw & use needle nose w/ a lil leverage to pull it. I used a large socket to install the new one. My seal was worn, however, my shaft wasn't and the side-to-side movement wasn't bad at all. It has been leak proof for several months now. The old seals just got too brittle. I believe I had to remove the header, it was a lot of work, but I only spent a few dollars to fix it.

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[Steve McMahan]

I think I can take it out with my shorty’s installed, I hope!

 

[Stanglover]

I think I can take it out with my shorty’s installed, I hope!

Me too, and if you've not held one of those PS boxes, they're pretty heavy to take out or install. Just as a heads up. When I did mine, I got a friend to help especially putting it back in. Mind you, I was laying on my back under the car, not working with it up on a hoist.

 

[giantpune]

Unless you just want to keep it because its the original part, I vote replace it with a redhead unit. I did mine around the long tube headers from under the car. New lares rag joint, new steering box, new pitman arm cause mine was shot. It was about a 90 minute job on jack stands as long as you dont have to go back and forth to the store for specialty tools.

https://7173mustangs.com/threads/giantpunes-73-mach-1-project-thread.40410/post-404103

 

[73inNH]

Another vote for redhead. And you can opt for the quicker ratio.

 

[Steve McMahan]

Me too, and if you've not held one of those PS boxes, they're pretty heavy to take out or install. Just as a heads up. When I did mine, I got a friend to help especially putting it back in. Mind you, I was laying on my back under the car, not working with it up on a hoist.

I think I’ll go for the fix what I have at the moment approach. While I’m not anal about my plan, I do plan on replacing the steering box in the next phase. I’ll probably rig up a hoist to help me remove and install it. Thanks for the “it’s heavier than it looks“ tip.

 

[Bentworker]

I think I’ll go for the fix what I have at the moment approach. While I’m not anal about my plan, I do plan on replacing the steering box in the next phase. I’ll probably rig up a hoist to help me remove and install it. Thanks for the “it’s heavier than it looks“ tip.

Get a kit or two and go for it. You probably can’t make it leak more than it is!

 

[Steve McMahan]

Which one would you buy?

 

[Bentworker]

Which one would you buy?

Edelmann or gates.

 

[trillizo_y_uno]

Another vote for the Redhead gear box. I swapped out my leaking box last year, along with a new pitman arm, idler arm, inner & outer tie rods and links. Pretty much everything steering related was tired and worn out. It was a night and day difference. Steering is tight and responsive. No more slop and play.

 

[73CobraJet]

Consider another option. If you have to pull the steering box upgrade to the Borgeson power steering box! Feels like modern steering with a quicker response. Does have a bit more effort to it but real nice unit! I’m happy that I did the change.

 

[Steve McMahan]

Thank you for the great ideas. I ordered the Gates kit for now. Once I have it out, next month, I’ll verify it can be rebuilt. The car sat in a salvage yard for about 16 years, so I’m hoping it‘s just original and worn out. I’m also gonna replace the rag joint.

 

[Stanglover]

I think I’ll go for the fix what I have at the moment approach. While I’m not anal about my plan, I do plan on replacing the steering box in the next phase. I’ll probably rig up a hoist to help me remove and install it. Thanks for the “it’s heavier than it looks“ tip.

Hi Steve,
As mentioned, if you're laying on your back to put it back in especially, I found it a great help to have someone assist with getting at least 1 bolt back in. After that, it's pretty easy, it's just getting it started that I found awkward. Mind you, I do have a bad shoulder and that doesn't help with lifting and holding heavy stuff while trying to get the bolts in.
As for a quick fix right now, that's your choice of course. If it is just the input shaft seal, apart from all the work to pull and replace the box, the seal and dust cover/seal is reasonably straight forward. Getting the car on the road is your priority.
Also as Bentworker suggests, Rock Auto is your go-to place to buy a kit or two. I used Edelmann kits and found them to be good.
The bigger problem I found with rebuilding my own boxes, was the sector shaft. I was fortunate that I had access to a machine shop and could repair the worn out bottom seal area that you see in my pic. I have not been able to find anyone to supply repaired sector shafts with the right ratio, but I know the professional rebuilders would have access to this service.
Good luck.

 

[Stanglover]

Thank you for the great ideas. I ordered the Gates kit for now. Once I have it out, next month, I’ll verify it can be rebuilt. The car sat in a salvage yard for about 16 years, so I’m hoping it‘s just original and worn out. I’m also gonna replace the rag joint.

Hmm, looks like you type faster than I do!! Gates, Edelmann all good choices.

 

[Ron Tanzi]

I have used both the Edelman and Gates kits. I liked the Gates kit a little better. It is not hard to replace that seal. I did mine 10 years ago and still leak free. I keep an extra seal kit on the shelf. Among other things LOL.

 

[Steve McMahan]

I’m hoping this gets me where I want to be. I’ve replaced every other part of the suspension and steering system, and the very short drives I‘ve taken, it feels great and is tight, although, that’s not easy to tell at 10 mph.

 

[Stanglover]

I’m hoping this gets me where I want to be. I’ve replaced every other part of the suspension and steering system, and the very short drives I‘ve taken, it feels great and is tight, although, that’s not easy to tell at 10 mph.

You're well on your way then.