LEDs for dash

[fmjcraig]

PHi fellow mustang lovers...I want to request info on replacing LED bulbs in dash complete, instrument cluster pretty straight forward, but in replacing center dash assy guages bulbs, is there any easier way to access the 3 guages to replace them, where I can tilt forward the assy to install instead of yanking the whole thing out? Also based on your success what color works best, and brand and source? If I don't change color diffusers is white the best? The main dash LEDs are 194's, but what bulbs are the center guages types...not listed on Average Joe Restoration Chart (1445 or 1895?). Thanks for any help...Craig Collins. Couldn't find any threads or YouTube videos on how specifically at all...surprised. My email if easier is [email protected].



And yes I am the one who bought the car from Morrison Motor Cars in NC...Actually a very straight, original well taken care of survivor.

 

[Stanglover]

PHi fellow mustang lovers...I want to request info on replacing LED bulbs in dash complete, instrument cluster pretty straight forward, but in replacing center dash assy guages bulbs, is there any easier way to access the 3 guages to replace them, where I can tilt forward the assy to install instead of yanking the whole thing out? Also based on your success what color works best, and brand and source? If I don't change color diffusers is white the best? The main dash LEDs are 194's, but what bulbs are the center guages types...not listed on Average Joe Restoration Chart (1445 or 1895?). Thanks for any help...Craig Collins. Couldn't find any threads or YouTube videos on how specifically at all...surprised. My email if easier is [email protected].



And yes I am the one who bought the car from Morrison Motor Cars in NC...Actually a very straight, original well taken care of survivor.

 Nice car there my friend!

As for LED dash lights, I used Hi-Po Parts ELITE series bulbs and very happy with them. This subject has been talked about a lot here if you care to search. If you have a non-tach gauge set, i.e. idiot lights, I would suggest going to RCCI (rocketman classic cougar innovations) and buy his tach conversion kit. Well worth the investment and looks like the original. Regardless, do NOT put an LED in the ALT socket, keep that incandescent for the correct circuitry.

Hope that helps,

Geoff.

 

[Danno]

PHi fellow mustang lovers...I want to request info on replacing LED bulbs in dash complete, instrument cluster pretty straight forward, but in replacing center dash assy guages bulbs, is there any easier way to access the 3 guages to replace them, where I can tilt forward the assy to install instead of yanking the whole thing out? Also based on your success what color works best, and brand and source? If I don't change color diffusers is white the best? The main dash LEDs are 194's, but what bulbs are the center guages types...not listed on Average Joe Restoration Chart (1445 or 1895?). Thanks for any help...Craig Collins. Couldn't find any threads or YouTube videos on how specifically at all...surprised. My email if easier is [email protected].



And yes I am the one who bought the car from Morrison Motor Cars in NC...Actually a very straight, original well taken care of survivor.

 Nice car there my friend!

As for LED dash lights, I used Hi-Po Parts ELITE series bulbs and very happy with them. This subject has been talked about a lot here if you care to search. If you have a non-tach gauge set, i.e. idiot lights, I would suggest going to RCCI (rocketman classic cougar innovations) and buy his tach conversion kit. Well worth the investment and looks like the original. Regardless, do NOT put an LED in the ALT socket, keep that incandescent for the correct circuitry.

Hope that helps,

Geoff.

My alt light has never worked. I plan on up grading to led's over the winter, which means removing the dash etc. Just to make sure, the alt light is a separate wire and socket, correct? I have a mystery damaged socket ad wire loose and hanging in that area and am guessing that is the culprit. I'll need to get a new socket and splice it in while I have everything opened up. I also have no backlight for the headlight bezel which I will investigate at the same time.

Thanks for the heads up on the correct alt light bulb BTW.

 

[fmjcraig]

Thanks, Hi-po parts is a seller in Gaylord, Mi and I also liked as you did the look with the LEDs...thanks, now just need good info on removal of center dash to access the three guages above the radio for their bulbs.

 

[Stanglover]

As for LED dash lights, I used Hi-Po Parts ELITE  series bulbs and very happy with them. This subject has been talked about a lot here if you care to search. If you have a non-tach gauge set, i.e. idiot lights, I would suggest going to RCCI (rocketman classic cougar innovations) and buy his tach conversion kit. Well worth the investment and looks like the original. Regardless, do NOT put an LED in the ALT socket, keep that incandescent for the correct circuitry.

Hope that helps,

Geoff.

My alt light has never worked. I plan on up grading to led's over the winter, which means removing the dash etc. Just to make sure, the alt light is a separate wire and socket, correct? I have a mystery damaged socket ad wire loose and hanging in that area and am guessing that is the culprit. I'll need to get a new socket and splice it in while I have everything opened up. I also have no backlight for the headlight bezel which I will investigate at the same time.

Thanks for the heads up on the correct alt light bulb BTW.

 The ALT socket is integral with the circuit board, not separate. Perhaps someone has jerry rigged it before. The Alt socket is located, looking from the back at the C/B bottom right corner. Older instruction sheets from Hi-Po Parts had this wrong showing it at the top right. Hopefully it has been corrected by now. This is for idiot lights only, no factory tach or clock (tic-toc).

 The ALT socket is the bottom right seen from behind as mounted to the cluster body.

ALSO, I first used Extreme, but changed them to ELITE Series which are way better, Kit #FC7173FM-EL2 original factory color. Other colors are available if you prefer.

Hope that makes some sort of sense,

Geoff.

EDIT NOTE: Got my bulbs mixed up, Sorry, this is now correct.

2nd EDIT: deleted  attachments as per request.

 

[rackerm]

As for LED dash lights, I used Hi-Po Parts ELITE  series bulbs and very happy with them. This subject has been talked about a lot here if you care to search. If you have a non-tach gauge set, i.e. idiot lights, I would suggest going to RCCI (rocketman classic cougar innovations) and buy his tach conversion kit. Well worth the investment and looks like the original. Regardless, do NOT put an LED in the ALT socket, keep that incandescent for the correct circuitry.

Hope that helps,

Geoff.

My alt light has never worked. I plan on up grading to led's over the winter, which means removing the dash etc. Just to make sure, the alt light is a separate wire and socket, correct? I have a mystery damaged socket ad wire loose and hanging in that area and am guessing that is the culprit. I'll need to get a new socket and splice it in while I have everything opened up. I also have no backlight for the headlight bezel which I will investigate at the same time.

Thanks for the heads up on the correct alt light bulb BTW.

 The ALT socket is integral with the circuit board, not separate. Perhaps someone has jerry rigged it before. The Alt socket is located, looking from the back at the C/B bottom right corner. Older instruction sheets from Hi-Po Parts had this wrong showing it at the top right. Hopefully it has been corrected by now. This is for idiot lights only, no factory tach or clock (tic-toc).

See attached diagrams which are the OLD incorrect ones for Elite and Extreme Bulbs. The ALT socket is still the bottom right seen from behind as mounted to the cluster body.

ALSO, I first used Extreme, but changed them to ELITE Series which are way better. see second diagram. Kit #FC7173FM-EL2 original factory color. Other colors are available if you prefer.

Hope that makes some sort of sense,

Geoff.

EDIT NOTE: Got my bulbs mixed up, Sorry, this is now correct.

Geoff, what was it you did not like about the exteme bul  kit? The website says the elite kit does not have full dimming ability whereas the extreme kit does. Could you elborate. Thanks

 

[jpaz]

Hi Craig, welcome to the forum! I knew I would see you here sooner or later, glad you joined.

I got my led's from superbrightled.com for the dash, heater a/c controls, 3 gauge pod, and for the shifter. I didn't do the turn signals, they won't work with leds. I only replaced the 194 bulbs. I also replaced the circuit board on the back of the instruments. Really makes a huge difference. You will need to remove gauge cluster to do this. Its not to bad to do.

 

[fmjcraig]

Hi Craig, welcome to the forum! I knew I would see you here sooner or later, glad you joined.

I got my led's from superbrightled.com for the dash, heater a/c controls, 3 gauge pod, and for the shifter. I didn't do the turn signals, they won't work with leds. I only replaced the 194 bulbs. I also replaced the circuit board on the back of the instruments. Really makes a huge difference. You will need to remove gauge cluster to do this. Its not to bad to do.

Thanks for the info...so many choices, eh?...do want them dimmable for sure, Craig



images upload

 

[Stanglover]

My alt light has never worked. I plan on up grading to led's over the winter, which means removing the dash etc. Just to make sure, the alt light is a separate wire and socket, correct? I have a mystery damaged socket ad wire loose and hanging in that area and am guessing that is the culprit. I'll need to get a new socket and splice it in while I have everything opened up. I also have no backlight for the headlight bezel which I will investigate at the same time.

Thanks for the heads up on the correct alt light bulb BTW.

 The ALT socket is integral with the circuit board, not separate. Perhaps someone has jerry rigged it before. The Alt socket is located, looking from the back at the C/B bottom right corner. Older instruction sheets from Hi-Po Parts had this wrong showing it at the top right. Hopefully it has been corrected by now. This is for idiot lights only, no factory tach or clock (tic-toc).

See attached diagrams which are the OLD incorrect ones for Elite and Extreme Bulbs. The ALT socket is still the bottom right seen from behind as mounted to the cluster body.

ALSO, I first used Extreme, but changed them to ELITE Series which are way better. see second diagram. Kit #FC7173FM-EL2 original factory color. Other colors are available if you prefer.

Hope that makes some sort of sense,

Geoff.

EDIT NOTE: Got my bulbs mixed up, Sorry, this is now correct.

Geoff, what was it you did not like about the exteme bul  kit? The website says the elite kit does not have full dimming ability whereas the extreme kit does. Could you elborate. Thanks

The extreme bulbs were not bright enough, barely different from 194 bulbs. I chose to retain the blue domes as I want the original look. My domes were not discolored and in perfect condition. Not all are for sure.

I have no obvious issue with the Elite bulbs not dimming. They work fine. The website dose say however, "they will be dimmable in most vehicles" BUT LED's won't work in the turn signals without a special LED flasher/relay, available from Hi-Po Parts (and likely others suppliers). I believe it has a separate ground wire if I remember, Hi-Po scu is RELAY-LED-02. I used 194 bulbs in this location, but I may change next year as I want to install LED's in the rear lights. It seems there is a lot of "stuff" the manufacturers and resellers don't tell us, but would be to their benefit if they did.

Hope that clears up your question.

 

[Stanglover]

Hi Craig, welcome to the forum! I knew I would see you here sooner or later, glad you joined.

I got my led's from superbrightled.com for the dash, heater a/c controls, 3 gauge pod, and for the shifter. I didn't do the turn signals, they won't work with leds. I only replaced the 194 bulbs. I also replaced the circuit board on the back of the instruments. Really makes a huge difference. You will need to remove gauge cluster to do this. Its not to bad to do.

Thanks for the info...so many choices, eh?...do want them dimmable for sure, Craig

 Yes, jpaz is correct. I should have suggested replacing the C/B in my reply. It's not hard to do as you'll have the cluster out.

IF you decide to upgrade to the tach conversion, I can offer some suggestions if you PM me. I think it's been discussed here before though.

 

[fmjcraig]

Hi Craig, welcome to the forum! I knew I would see you here sooner or later, glad you joined.

I got my led's from superbrightled.com for the dash, heater a/c controls, 3 gauge pod, and for the shifter. I didn't do the turn signals, they won't work with leds. I only replaced the 194 bulbs. I also replaced the circuit board on the back of the instruments. Really makes a huge difference. You will need to remove gauge cluster to do this. Its not to bad to do.

Thanks for the info...so many choices, eh?...do want them dimmable for sure, Craig

 Yes, jpaz is correct. I should have suggested replacing the C/B in my reply. It's not hard to do as you'll have the cluster out.

IF you decide to upgrade to the tach conversion, I can offer some suggestions if you PM me. I think it's been discussed here before though.

Have the tach already in cluster as it was born with, so it sounds like Elites are the better choice...I will post at a later date which ones I chose and outcome

 

[Stanglover]

Thanks for the info...so many choices, eh?...do want them dimmable for sure, Craig

 Yes, jpaz is correct. I should have suggested replacing the C/B in my reply. It's not hard to do as you'll have the cluster out.

IF you decide to upgrade to the tach conversion, I can offer some suggestions if you PM me. I think it's been discussed here before though.

Have the tach already in cluster as it was born with, so it sounds like Elites are the better choice...I will post at a later date which ones I chose and outcome

 I see. I don't think you mentioned what gauge set you had unless I missed it. If you have the factory tach, the you will have a set of center gauges I assume. RCCI have a volt conversion as well for the ALT gauge which is almost always shot. If that is the bulb you're talking about not working, that should be an easy fix. There are only 2 wired in bulbs in that cluster.

I was thinking you had the idiot lights from your description. Perhaps I just need to pay more attention!!!

Keep us posted.

Geoff

 EDIT: Ok my bad! I re-read your initial post and I did misread it. If your able to squeeze under the center dash, I think you can reach the bulbs. You could pull a seat out to make it way easier. If not, you'll have to unscrew the entire panel to bring it forward enough to reach the bulbs. It's a PITA for sure.

Hi-Po Elite series II would be my choice, or similar. The brighter the better and should be dimmable for sure.

 

[jpaz]

The leds I got are dimmable.

 

[Stanglover]

A couple of pics that might help.

There are 2 bulbs in the center gauges. The full center dash pic is to show where the screws are if it helps.

 

[fmjcraig]

 Yes, jpaz is correct. I should have suggested replacing the C/B in my reply. It's not hard to do as you'll have the cluster out.

IF you decide to upgrade to the tach conversion, I can offer some suggestions if you PM me. I think it's been discussed here before though.

Have the tach already in cluster as it was born with, so it sounds like Elites are the better choice...I will post at a later date which ones I chose and outcome

 I see. I don't think you mentioned what gauge set you had unless I missed it. If you have the factory tach, the you will have a set of center gauges I assume. RCCI have a volt conversion as well for the ALT gauge which is almost always shot. If that is the bulb you're talking about not working, that should be an easy fix. There are only 2 wired in bulbs in that cluster.

I was thinking you had the idiot lights from your description. Perhaps I just need to pay more attention!!!

Keep us posted.

Geoff

 EDIT: Ok my bad! I re-read your initial post and I did misread it. If your able to squeeze under the center dash, I think you can reach the bulbs. You could pull a seat out to make it way easier. If not, you'll have to unscrew the entire panel to bring it forward enough to reach the bulbs. It's a PITA for sure.

Hi-Po Elite series II would be my choice, or similar. The brighter the better and should be dimmable for sure.

Thanks again...will probably wait till next spring as in no hurry, only drive it to cruise-ins so far this year, but since the car needs nothing else, am looking to find things to do to on it so I will feel accomplished, right? I feel I should start with a headlight relay kit to decrease voltage loss via the length of wire from power to HL switch back out to headlights which will help, but headlights already seem bright enough, but brighter can't hurt. The kit sold by CJ Pony parts appears appropriate and plug-and-play over rocket man's style, so if anything as easier, but better advice would be welcomed...Craig

 

[Stanglover]

Craig, I know exactly what you mean by looking for things to do on your car. I'm in the same boat, always trying to find something to "fix"

 I'm definitely NOT the guy to talk to regards electronic stuff, dumb as a stump there, but one thing I did find out is that old, worn out HL switches are often the cause for dash lights not working or not working well. The dimmer resistor thingy wares out, so it appears the lights don't work.

As for the headlight relay, sounds like something to look into. I installed Halogen sealed beams in my car with great results. I can actually see the road at night now! Could they be better?

Hope I've been of some help, so good luck with it and let us know the results later,

Geoff.

 

[fmjcraig]

Craig, I know exactly what you mean by looking for things to do on your car. I'm in the same boat, always trying to find something to "fix"

 I'm definitely NOT the guy to talk to regards electronic stuff, dumb as a stump there, but one thing I did find out is that old, worn out HL switches are often the cause for dash lights not working or not working well. The dimmer resistor thingy wares out, so it appears the lights don't work.

As for the headlight relay, sounds like something to look into. I installed Halogen sealed beams in my car with great results. I can actually see the road at night now! Could they be better?

Hope I've been of some help, so good luck with it and let us know the results later,

Geoff.

Will do, and probably replace it first, a new switch is pretty cheap and available, and very easy to do...the switch in the car is original and seems to work and potentiometer (dimmer) cycles from out to dash map light on but being over 40 years old it can't hurt to change it out...will let you know on results. I was looking behind dash last night and am amazed that the condition of all wiring, harness tags with the part numbers, it looks as if the car was built new yesterday...absolutely no corrosion, not even dust. I did notice the plug under the passenger seat is unplugged and the fasten seat belt indicator on the passenger side dash is also unplugged, maybe the previous owner didn't like the chime or buzzer going off every time he started it? Makes me not want to plug it back in...Craig

 

[Stanglover]

Craig, I know exactly what you mean by looking for things to do on your car. I'm in the same boat, always trying to find something to "fix"

 I'm definitely NOT the guy to talk to regards electronic stuff, dumb as a stump there, but one thing I did find out is that old, worn out HL switches are often the cause for dash lights not working or not working well. The dimmer resistor thingy wares out, so it appears the lights don't work.

As for the headlight relay, sounds like something to look into. I installed Halogen sealed beams in my car with great results. I can actually see the road at night now! Could they be better?

Hope I've been of some help, so good luck with it and let us know the results later,

Geoff.

Will do, and probably replace it first, a new switch is pretty cheap and available, and very easy to do...the switch in the car is original and seems to work and potentiometer (dimmer) cycles from out to dash map light on but being over 40 years old it can't hurt to change it out...will let you know on results. I was looking behind dash last night and am amazed that the condition of all wiring, harness tags with the part numbers, it looks as if the car was built new yesterday...absolutely no corrosion, not even dust. I did notice the plug under the passenger seat is unplugged and the fasten seat belt indicator on the passenger side dash is also unplugged, maybe the previous owner didn't like the chime or buzzer going off every time he started it? Makes me not want to plug it back in...Craig

 Craig, sounds like you have an awesome car there, nice find!!

 Perhaps next year we could meet up as I'm not too far away. I'd love to see the car "in person"

Also, I need to edit a previous post. No need to explain, it will be obvious.

Geoff.

 

[SVO2SCJ]

Craig, I know exactly what you mean by looking for things to do on your car. I'm in the same boat, always trying to find something to "fix"

 I'm definitely NOT the guy to talk to regards electronic stuff, dumb as a stump there, but one thing I did find out is that old, worn out HL switches are often the cause for dash lights not working or not working well. The dimmer resistor thingy wares out, so it appears the lights don't work.

As for the headlight relay, sounds like something to look into. I installed Halogen sealed beams in my car with great results. I can actually see the road at night now! Could they be better?

Hope I've been of some help, so good luck with it and let us know the results later,

Geoff.

Will do, and probably replace it first, a new switch is pretty cheap and available, and very easy to do...the switch in the car is original and seems to work and potentiometer (dimmer) cycles from out to dash map light on but being over 40 years old it can't hurt to change it out...will let you know on results. I was looking behind dash last night and am amazed that the condition of all wiring, harness tags with the part numbers, it looks as if the car was built new yesterday...absolutely no corrosion, not even dust. I did notice the plug under the passenger seat is unplugged and the fasten seat belt indicator on the passenger side dash is also unplugged, maybe the previous owner didn't like the chime or buzzer going off every time he started it? Makes me not want to plug it back in...Craig

 Craig, sounds like you have an awesome car there, nice find!!

 Perhaps next year we could meet up as I'm not too far away. I'd love to see the car "in person"

Also, I need to edit a previous post. No need to explain, it will be obvious.

Geoff.

Starting here with this thread because of the effort members like Stanglover and FMJCraig put into everyones interest .     (I will post a dedicated post also)

Bill @ hipoparts has offered this forum a 20% discount on purchases of LED products that total at least $50.00 for a limited time!   Simply use the code 20507173 on web checkout until 11/31/17

Many have bought https://www.hipoparts.com/1965-73-ford-mustang-led-gauge-light-conversion-kit/ in the past and are return customers to which he is extending this offer.   (Really doesn't advertise as WCC and NPD sell his kits on a retail basis)

Mark