Looking at Heads on CL, should I?

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trainey

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Apr 3, 2011
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Location
Kennesaw, GA
My Car
1972 H-code Mach1
2010 GT Premium
2004 F150- The "home depot" machine
2018 HD RoadGlide Ultra
Hey Guys,

I was planning on having my 2V heads worked over, new SS valves and springs etc, but I saw these on CL this morning, and they are just up the road. What do you think, build mine, or consider these instead?

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/pts/3088718620.html

Thanks!

 
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If they are off a CJ motor they shuold be 4V heads. That will require a different intake manifold. (larger ports)

 
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I would go look at them

Somebody added / machined them for boss / HO screw in studs / guide plates - plates have FORD logo too

 
I would go look at them

Somebody added / machined them for boss / HO screw in studs / guide plates - plates have FORD logo too
It just depends on a few things! Do you want to change out the intake and exhaust manifolds? They are different in port size and I know a few have tried different things to TRY and make them work but it will always leak when completed. The guide plates were designed for high rpm applications 5000-7000 rpm and need run a hardened set of push rods- not stock so if you have the budget they appear to be a nice up grade. If low compression heads are your goal for the use of low octane gas they are excellent. If you are looking for a little more bang for your buck look for a set of quench heads High Compression, The greater you squeeze the combustion cycle the better the old pony will run,. Just my 2 cents ;)

 
I know I'll have to change the intake, planned on putting a 4v intake on my 2V heads anyway. And I'll have to change my headers, as well. I am just trying to decide whether to spend the money on my heads, or just get these.

 
I know I'll have to change the intake, planned on putting a 4v intake on my 2V heads anyway. And I'll have to change my headers, as well. I am just trying to decide whether to spend the money on my heads, or just get these.
To me with those being the open chambered heads they seem a little high to me but if what they say is true that they are freshly rebuilt with quality parts not lower quality stuff (I would ask) and you could get them for somewhat less then go for it since you already know the other parts involved. Oh also if it has the screw in studs are you going with roller rockers?

 
The 4V heads seem like a good deal but based on your previous posts as to what you want from your '72, I would say "pass on them."

As Roy (Tnfastbk) noted in one of his posts on your previous thread, you need to ensure that you have "matched" components. It comes down to the "total package."You previously indicated that you were not into racing or anything of that nature and that you just wanted a little more performance. This is the reason the "group" suggested the previous "changes."

If your goal has changed and you have not purchased the other items, i.e. cam, intake, carb, etc., advise so that we might give you a quality response.

BT

 
My goal really has not changed. I am just looking for street performance. I had already also planned on a cam change, and I already have the 3.50 traction lok/31 spline setup that I got from Ollie. I was just curious your thoughts on spending my money on the 2V heads I have vs these.

And Roy, I would also negotiate a lower price, say $500 or so. I need to get my friend to go out with me as he is an experienced race motor builder, and get his evaluation and input as well. He is who I planned on working my heads over.

 
I had the same work done on 4V closed chamber heads. With parts and labor it would cost 600 dollars or more to duplicate the work on your heads.

I would try to buy those for up to 550 or so than if you are going further buy 4V or 3V aluminum

 
Strongly agree with Jeff as it relates to the "work" costing you about the same as the price for the 4V heads if you decide to work your 2V heads.

Since you apparently have NOT purchased the previously noted parts, i.e., Cam, Intake and carb, I would revise my opinion and say "go for it" as it relate to obtaining the 4V heads. Keep in mind that this may necessitate some revisions to what camshaft and associated equipment you should obtain.

Remember: It is about matching a "system" to get the desire level of performance.

BT

 
I had the same work done on 4V closed chamber heads. With parts and labor it would cost 600 dollars or more to duplicate the work on your heads.

I would try to buy those for up to 550 or so than if you are going further buy 4V or 3V aluminum
I agree but I'm around the 500 mark if good valves and studs were used, but hey I'm cheap, not DROPTOP cheap :p but cheap.

 
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