Modern Driveline Quote

[PeteG41]

My DD is a 2005 mustang, with a 5 speed. The only automatic I have ever owned was a 95 grand cherokee, strictly for the snow I dealt with up in flagstaff. For you all that have used Modern Driveline, does this quote look correct? Looking at the flywheel spec, it doesn't have the 351C on there. I am a little clueless on this tech stuff so that may not make a difference but wanted to ask those that have done it. I was going to rebuild my FMX, but since I truly want a 5 speed I think it makes more sense for me to do it now and spend a couple more k, than to rebuild the FMX, and later on go this route. Looks like the only thing I will need is a driveshaft that is not included?

 

[70cobrascj]

I had them quote me this also but with the Tremec TKX that can handle 600 pound feet.
Their quote is a little messed up unless a Windsor and a Cleveland take the same flywheel. They quote a Windsor flywheel. That also makes me wonder about the bell housing.

 

[Sheriff41]

The 351W and 351C use the same bellhousing and flywheel (with 28oz offset balance). Now that you have a list of parts you can source some locally from wrecking yards or parts houses and only buy what's left from MDL. A local driveline shop can build a driveshaft for you pretty reasonably.

 

[70cobrascj]

Thanks again Sheriff

 

[PeteG41]

The 351W and 351C use the same bellhousing and flywheel (with 28oz offset balance). Now that you have a list of parts you can source some locally from wrecking yards or parts houses and only buy what's left from MDL. A local driveline shop can build a driveshaft for you pretty reasonably.

Awesome thank you! Wasn't sure on that part of it.

 

[PeteG41]

I had them quote me this also but with the Tremec TKX that can handle 600 pound feet.
Their quote is a little messed up unless a Windsor and a Cleveland take the same flywheel. They quote a Windsor flywheel. That also makes me wonder about the bell housing.

Yeah that was the other thing about it. If you look at the top with my request I said the TKX, just in case down the road I was going to throw more power at it, but looks like they quote the T-5.

 

[70cobrascj]

Yeah noticed that and was a little confused by it.

 

[c9zx]

The 157 tooth flywheel, bell housing, and clutch they listed will work. However, clutch choices are limited to 10.0 or 10.5 clutches, no 11 inch choice. The 351C with standard shift had 164 tooth flywheels and bell housings. The T-5 is a good and very smooth transmission (I used one for 16 years). It was designed to be mated to a 225 HP 302 Mustang that weighed about 3100 lbs. A lot depends on how the car will be driven. The T-5Z is rated at 330 lb/ft of torque. For what it is worth, I'm not a fan of the cable operated clutch. I broke 3 of them over 16 years with the stock 1990 Mustang clutch. Good luck with the project. Chuck

 

[PeteG41]

Reached out

The 157 tooth flywheel, bell housing, and clutch they listed will work. However, clutch choices are limited to 10.0 or 10.5 clutches, no 11 inch choice. The 351C with standard shift had 164 tooth flywheels and bell housings. The T-5 is a good and very smooth transmission (I used one for 16 years). It was designed to be mated to a 225 HP 302 Mustang that weighed about 3100 lbs. A lot depends on how the car will be driven. The T-5Z is rated at 330 lb/ft of torque. For what it is worth, I'm not a fan of the cable operated clutch. I broke 3 of them over 16 years with the stock 1990 Mustang clutch. Good luck with the project. Chuck

Yep actually reached back out, they made the mistake on the T-5 rather than the TKX. Bumed it up to $5600 and change. Might slowly start accumulating some parts and get around to it eventually. Chomping at the bit to get my car on the road, so will be rolling with the capable FMX for now.

 

[boilermaster]

PeteG41,
I did my TKX for just under 4K, but I went from a Toploader to the TKX.
I did a lot of research and was able to use OEM bellhousing in conjunction with a MDL bell spacer and with a (super short) pinion yoke was able to use my stock 4 speed driveshaft, those 2 items alone could save you well over $1K.
Boilermaster

 

[Idaho Chris]

I did a FMX to T-5z swap 18 months ago using the complete MDL kit. Your kit and pricing look similar to my quote. My engine is a stock '73 351C 4V w a '71 Ford HO cam/timing set. I'd be real surprised if it made more than 300 hp.

I don't beat the crap out of the car like I would have in my youth. I'm pretty sure the T5 will out last me.

Yeah I might have saved a few bucks scouring for parts elsewhere, but for me it was just not worth my time. MDL provided great support during my build and whatever premium I paid for having the complete kit delivered to me on a pallet was well worth it.

Your biggest headache is going to be getting the pedal assembly in and out of the car to mod for the clutch pedal.

Drop me a line if I can help with anything. You're going to love that third pedal!

 

[PeteG41]

I did a FMX to T-5z swap 18 months ago using the complete MDL kit. Your kit and pricing look similar to my quote. My engine is a stock '73 351C 4V w a '71 Ford HO cam/timing set. I'd be real surprised if it made more than 300 hp.

I don't beat the crap out of the car like I would have in my youth. I'm pretty sure the T5 will out last me.

Yeah I might have saved a few bucks scouring for parts elsewhere, but for me it was just not worth my time. MDL provided great support during my build and whatever premium I paid for having the complete kit delivered to me on a pallet was well worth it.

Your biggest headache is going to be getting the pedal assembly in and out of the car to mod for the clutch pedal.

Drop me a line if I can help with anything. You're going to love that third pedal!

For sure! That was my thought as well. Just don't have the knowledge of knowing which pieces to look for/junkyard find, so when I can afford it, its worth paying extra to know I have everything I need. I have been looking for a top loader for a while, thats what my dad had in his 71 when I was growing up, but tough to find and paying a premium when you do.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

My DD is a 2005 mustang, with a 5 speed. The only automatic I have ever owned was a 95 grand cherokee, strictly for the snow I dealt with up in flagstaff. For you all that have used Modern Driveline, does this quote look correct? Looking at the flywheel spec, it doesn't have the 351C on there. I am a little clueless on this tech stuff so that may not make a difference but wanted to ask those that have done it. I was going to rebuild my FMX, but since I truly want a 5 speed I think it makes more sense for me to do it now and spend a couple more k, than to rebuild the FMX, and later on go this route. Looks like the only thing I will need is a driveshaft that is not included?

I swapped in a MDL TKO 600 (predecessor to the tkx 600) in my 72 years ago. Your $ quote looks about right. The TKO swap was one of the best upgrades I've done, the overdrive is a game changer. I run/prefer the factory mechanical linkage, but since you're converting from an auto, the cable linkage will make your swap simpler. I think you'll be very, very happy with your TKX 600 conversion.

 

[tony-muscle]

I was in a similar boat. I replaced my C6 with a TKO600. I love it! I got everything from MD except the bellhousing that I found cheaper in one of the old Mustang sites. It is not cheap, but if within budget, it is well worth it. It is also a piece of mind getting all, or most of, the parts from one source in case there are problems. Still double check everything.

 

[PeteG41]

I swapped in a MDL TKO 600 (predecessor to the tkx 600) in my 72 years ago. Your $ quote looks about right. The TKO swap was one of the best upgrades I've done, the overdrive is a game changer. I run/prefer the factory mechanical linkage, but since you're converting from an auto, the cable linkage will make your swap simpler. I think you'll be very, very happy with your TKX 600 conversion.

Yeah I would love to be able to cruise this on the freeway no probems without wringing out the RPM's. I assumed money wise it would be in that ballpark before I reached out so no surprises there.

 

[c9zx]

As I hinted at, and Cleveland said, I'd consider using the factory style mechanical linkage. The firewall was not built to withstand the pressure of the cable clutch linkage, even with a mommy clutch. However, it is your car, your money, and your time. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Chuck

 

[PeteG41]

As I hinted at, and Cleveland said, I'd consider using the factory style mechanical linkage. The firewall was not built to withstand the pressure of the cable clutch linkage, even with a mommy clutch. However, it is your car, your money, and your time. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Chuck

No I’ll absolutely take into consideration from people that have done it! I would be dumb not to. If that’s what recommended based on experience then that should probably be the route.

 

[351c1971]

You might also consider the Centerforce clutch kit. I have the 11" CenterForce 1 kit with the stock linkage and a TopLoader 3 sp. The pedal is very light and feels like it has a hydraulic assist.

 

[tony-muscle]

FYI. I have been using the cable clutch setup sold by MD. No issues this far after 5 years. I don't think there is that much load on the firewall if the cable runs smoothly inside the jacket. I don't see any type of deflection or movement in that area.

 

[Bobby]

I upgraded my 72 Mach 1 with an AOD from a C6. I preferred to go with a 4 speed toploader not only because it is a virtually indestructible but a stickshift is a built-in anti-theft device and most of all......a hot rod should have a stick! I costed all the parts and compared them with a simple auto to auto changeout and of course the AOD was definite cost savings. I really wanted a stick but economics ruled it as it was 3K more than the AOD. Also, had I known that the TV cable system is such a pain to deal with, I would have gone with a stick. Anyway, the pricing that PeteG41 supplied seems fair to me since I had priced all the materials two years ago. The one thing I question is the use of a clutch cable. When I was researching all the parts i needed for the changeout, I downloaded an exploded parts list for the OEM clutch system. There is a series of springs, levers and other gizmos that will give you a solid yet easy way to push the clutch pedal without fatiguing your left leg in traffic. The question is how will the simple clutch cable method translate to force needed to push the clutch pedal down. You might research the use of cable vs the use of a hydraulic clutch system. A hydraulic clutch is more to expensive to buy and install but the results may be worth the expense especially if you want to make your Stang a daily driver..