MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1)

[tony-muscle]

Plans for this next few days:

-Adjust the booster master cylinder push rod. Any tips on how to do this?

-Clean and undercoat the transmission tunnel before the new TKO600 goes in.

 

[mach71351c]

Damn you have been busy! Nice job on the apron repair.

 

[OzCoupe72]

Looks like you are progressing well and nice pics too

I've been busy just getting panels straight and ready for paint

With your booster rod adjustment you want to aim for about 20 thou clearance, use a vernier depth guage to calculate where your rod would contact inside the master cylinder and how far your rod extends or sits inside the booster and don't forget to allow for the master cylinder if it has a step past the mating surface. Picture below give a good idea.

One thing you might want to check though. In my case I used a falcon master cylinder and didn't realise you need to preload the piston i.e. it extends out nearly 1/8 inch so needed to get it level before taking measurements. I didn't realise this and wondered why I couldn't get a decent pedal. Don't think the Mustang master needs to be pre-loaded but perhaps a member can confirm this.

Doc1.docx

 

[tony-muscle]

Looks like you are progressing well and nice pics too

I've been busy just getting panels straight and ready for paint

With your booster rod adjustment you want to aim for about 20 thou clearance, use a vernier depth guage to calculate where your rod would contact inside the master cylinder and how far your rod extends or sits inside the booster and don't forget to allow for the master cylinder if it has a step past the mating surface. Picture below give a good idea.

One thing you might want to check though. In my case I used a falcon master cylinder and didn't realise you need to preload the piston i.e. it extends out nearly 1/8 inch so needed to get it level before taking measurements. I didn't realise this and wondered why I couldn't get a decent pedal. Don't think the Mustang master needs to be pre-loaded but perhaps a member can confirm this.

Thank you. That's how I did it by measuring with a caliper and adjusting accordingly. It is not exact, but does the trick. Let's see how it works once the car gets moving.

 

[tony-muscle]

Work has been slow lately. I was away from the car for two weeks due to spring break and work. There is not much in the list that I can tackle until I get the engine block back. I cleaned and recoated the transmission tunnel, I cleaned and repainted the outer shock tower (https://7173mustangs.com/threads/bump-stops.30752/), and replaced the suspension bumper stops. I am mocking the location of the transmission and making sure all the wires and clutch cable gets to it.

The work flow will be slow until I get the block, which hopefully would be late this month or early next month. Once I have the block, I will place it in the car so I know the location of the transmission and finalize the conversion to manual. At this time I will also measure and order the driveshaft. Since the driveshaft takes a bit to manufacture, then I can remove the block from the car and assemble the engine and heads. I can't wait until I can drive the car and burn some rubber!

 

[keiths71]

I had strange engineering build my drive shaft. They were very helpful on the phone, I filled out the order form, e-mailed it to summit for free shipping

It took about a week. Super nice welds and fit perfect. If you have a summit speed card 6mo. no interest doesn't hurt.

 

[tony-muscle]

This weekend I picked up the block, heads, rotating assembly, plus other accessories. I am still waiting for the rockers, lifters and some minor components. The block and heads were machined by TMeyer. He sourced the components for rotating assembly for the 408 stroker.

• The block was bored .030 over and went though his oil restricting process. One piece rear main seal mod.
  
• The pistons are Icon forged with 24cc inverted dome. 
  
• The rods are forged H-beams with the Centralign design. 
  
• The crankshaft is forged 4340 internally balanced.
  
• Roller valve train with Gaterman roller lifters, Scorpions roller rockers, Ferrea and Qualcast SS valves.
  
• My 4V heads were machined for screw-in studs (not needed for the lift I am using, but what the heck) and multiple angle valve job.
  
• Custom grind camshaft: 230/236 @0.05; .558 lift.
  
• Rollmaster timing chain.
  
• ARP studs and bolts.
  
• Kevko oil pan and pickup.
  

I had the opportunity to drive to Tim's shop and pick all the parts up. He is a great guy with a wealth of knowledge with the Cleveland. We chatted for a long time and he was able to give me a nice tour of his shop.  I saw some of his Track Boss Cleveland aluminum blocks. Got a lot of tips from him on how to assemble the engine.

 

[tony-muscle]

Here are some pictures of some of the components.





Taped the block so it doesn't get dirty during the mock-up stage.

 

[Fabrice]

Assembling back with quality new, clean and shiny parts. Nothing beats that! Enjoy!

 

[mach71351c]

Oh man that's some eye candy right there!

 

[tony-muscle]

Ready for mockup. All fitted right. The shifter of the TKO fits a bit more forward in the hole than what I would have thought.

Here is the engine block with the Kevko oil pan and TCI bellhousing. I first thought of painting it black, but the aluminum look is growing on me. Should I paint or leave it like so?

 

[73pony]

Very nice. I painted my pan black, just like the looks better. Just a heads up, make sure you clean the pan out really well. That is going to a bad ass machine. as far as the trans sitting forward in the hole, I had the same issue with my T5. I ended up making several temp shifter handles to try out and found the shape and length I liked best, then my brother-in-law machined one for me. Turned out very nice. Not stock by any means but works great. Here is a pic of the finished product..

 

[tony-muscle]

Very nice. I painted my pan black, just like the looks better. Just a heads up, make sure you clean the pan out really well. That is going to a bad ass machine. as far as the trans sitting forward in the hole, I had the same issue with my T5. I ended up making several temp shifter handles to try out and found the shape and length I liked best, then my brother-in-law machined one for me. Turned out very nice. Not stock by any means but works great. Here is a pic of the finished product..

Nice custom shifter!

I will take some pictures later that show the position of the shifter/hole. However, the Hurst shifter I have fits well.

 

[73pony]

Very nice. I painted my pan black, just like the looks better. Just a heads up, make sure you clean the pan out really well. That is going to a bad ass machine. as far as the trans sitting forward in the hole, I had the same issue with my T5. I ended up making several temp shifter handles to try out and found the shape and length I liked best, then my brother-in-law machined one for me. Turned out very nice. Not stock by any means but works great. Here is a pic of the finished product..

Nice custom shifter!

I will take some pictures later that show the position of the shifter/hole. However, the Hurst shifter I have fits well.

Thanks. Mine was more about finding a comfortable position given my height at 6'2" I have to have the seat all the way back. My brother-in-law that made it doesn't live to far from you. He's in Lodi.

 

[tony-muscle]

Here are some pictures of the shifter and tunnel hole from the inside. It looks awesome, I can't wait to drive it!

 

[tony-muscle]

This is strange (pun intended). Today I called Strange Engineering to get a quote for a driveshaft and yoke. When they asked me about what transmission I had and told them "TKO600", they had no idea what I was talking about. I even spelled the letters and they said that it was not in their system. At least they knew Tremec, but they didn't know TKO. What a joke (pun intended)? I thought this were THE people that new about this stuff. It definitely doesn't give me a good feeling about it.

BTW, after the mock up of transmission and engine all looked and fit good. The driveshaft measurement came to 53" from the u-joint of the rear end to the edge of the transmission. I will go with 1350 u-joints.

 

[keiths71]

I had no issue at all with strange, I guess it's like the parts store. You get the good guy or not. Good luck with everything

 

[tony-muscle]

Now I need to decide if I want to pay a little more for an aluminum over a steel driveshaft.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[tony-muscle]

Insulated the transmission tunnel with DEI tunnel shield and taped the edges with Thermotec tape:

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I would not waste the money on an aluminum driveshaft. Due to the relatively small diameter of a driveshaft the rotational weigh savings is minimal, unlike a flywheel. Spend your extra money somewhere else.