MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1)

[tony-muscle]

I will see if I can get you some measurements on the frame today.

If you do have to remove the compressor you should have the system emptied by someone with a pump to do so. If it was not charged and there is little in it and you have one of the fill connections for the cans you can bleed it off with it. Wear gloves and goggles when working on air cond. You can freeze something very quick. It is not good for you or the environment to let it in the air and some of the refrigerants are flammable.

Thank you David. The crossmember measurements will be great to have.
I think i will be able to move the engine around the compressor so my plan for now is to leave all the hoses connected.

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[tony-muscle]

Installed two bike hoists on the ceiling and used them to remove the hood. It worked great! Allowed me to remove the hood by myself.

The engine is coming out tomorrow night.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TFOPJA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[tony-muscle]

While at it, I also removed the passenger's side fender. I still had to double check the apron VIN number and I am happy to report that it is a match, at least the serialized number. I am confused about what the first two digits mean, "4T". Is the T for Metuchen? What is the 4 about?

 

[tony-muscle]

Going back to the VIN stamped in the apron. It is "4T159317". The last six digits are the serialized number and it matches. The T is the manufacturing plant of Metuchen, which is a match. The "4" is making me scratch my head  :chin: . Obviously, my car is a 1971, not a 1974. Any ideas?

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I don't know on that one. My 73 is like this. Probably the guy doing it miss indexed the stamp.

 

[turtle5353]

Must of been built on a Monday morning or Friday afternoon.

 

[tony-muscle]

lollerz

Who knows. The built day was December of 1970. Maybe they didn't have the "1" at that time, so the person thought of using the "4". Whatever it happened, it is not a 1974 apron for sure.

 

[tony-muscle]

Today the engine came out. So easy that even a five year old can do it.....  rofl



The rockers are aluminum and good looking. Can anyone identify them? The valve springs are double.

 

[tony-muscle]

Continuing disassembling the engine. It looks in very good shape. Measured the cylinders and they are at 4" +0.004" so I am assuming they have not been bored, so I guess that's good news.

The heads are closed chambers, D1AE-GA manufactured in October and November of 1970, which matches the car's December built date, and the engine's November date. The engine is a DOAE-L.

The valve train had the Crane Cam's, or similar, stud kit installed.

 

[timachone]

It looks in good shape - any plans on the valves and cylinders?

 

[tony-muscle]

It looks in good shape - any plans on the valves and cylinders?

I am stroking it. Dont know exactly about the valvetrain yet, but something along the lines of hyd rollers and a not too aggresive cam.
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[Jeff73Mach1]

The valves look to be ford parts-replace them with good quality 1 piece stainless valves while you are doing all this work.

 

[tony-muscle]

The valves look to be ford parts-replace them with good quality 1 piece stainless valves while you are doing all this work.

Yeah, they are Ford valves. Everything will be replaced, except the heads and block. I want this car to be reliable and withstand spirit acceleration all the way to the red line whenever I feel like it.

 

[tony-muscle]

Completed disassembly of block. Found about half of the pistons with cracked skirts. I found couple pieces in the oil pan. Cylinders look okay with some longitudinal wear. Cylinder 4 shows a bit of surface pitting. It most likely leaked water at some point in its life. Since the cylinders are at 4.0 there is room for some boring.

 

[tony-muscle]

The Kings were good to me this year. They came with their camels stuffed up with boxes from Modern Driveline. I am glad they didn't get stuck in the snow.





They include TKO600 with carbon lined syncros, crossmember, flywheel, clutch pedal and cable, shifter, kevlar/organic clutch, etc. All is missing now is the camel with the bell housing, which is coming from another direction!

 

[turtle5353]

Damn!!! That’s awesome!!

 

[mach71351c]

My my your going to have so much fun with that car!  ::thumb::

 

[tony-muscle]

I have been keeping this thread fairly quiet, but my work has not.

In the last few months I have:

- repaired the cowl rust issues with this made-up method: https://7173mustangs.com/threads/my-method-for-cowl-repair.30508/

- Removed and welded a new strut rod cross member: https://7173mustangs.com/threads/welding-strut-rod-cross-member.30164/

- Painted radiator support

- Repaired rust on the battery apron

 

[tony-muscle]

Strut cross member and apron:

I kept the original support bracket. I cleaned/cut the rust as much as I could, applied some Naval Jelly and after blast before three layers of RustBullet, seam sealer and black top coat. 



















I did not fix the right side front rail since the car was fairly square up to the strut rod cross member.

 

[tony-muscle]

Then:

-Replaced intermediate brake line

-Fuel vapor line with new SS line

-Replaced brake booster with Leed Booster: https://leedbrakes.com/i-21155649-hydraulic-kit-power-brake-booster-kit-71-73-ford-mustang.html

-Removed steering column, welded lockout lever, replaced firewall gasket with manual steering gasket

-Added Modern Driveline clutch pedal with Scott Drake bearing kit

-Attached Modern Driveline clutch cable

-Adapted modern Mustang Scott Drake pedals