MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1)

[tony-muscle]

I wanted to write more details about adapting the mini-starter (PMGR). This was a very easy and straight forward replacement. I used DB Electrical's SFD0001,sold for $38.60. This was a bolt on to the engine. I have a C6 automatic transmission. If you have manual you may need another part number. It comes with the wiring and instructions that you need. The connection is very simple. Inmediately I could feel the engine crancked a lot better. Being a more efficient design with reduction gears I guess that it consumes less power as well. Not only is more efficient, but it is also much lighter and smaller. I get a nice gap between the starter and headers, and enough space to access the bolts. This is an easy/cheap upgrade that I highly recommend.

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-9936-ford-mini-pmgr-racing-starter-302-351-higher-torque-3205-sfd0001.aspx

 

[73pony]

I wanted to write more details about adapting the mini-starter (PMGR). This was a very easy and straight forward replacement. I used DB Electrical's SFD0001,sold for $38.60. This was a bolt on to the engine. I have a C6 automatic transmission. If you have manual you may need another part number. It comes with the wiring and instructions that you need. The connection is very simple. Inmediately I could feel the engine crancked a lot better. Being a more efficient design with reduction gears I guess that it consumes less power as well. Not only is more efficient, but it is also much lighter and smaller. I get a nice gap between the starter and headers, and enough space to access the bolts. This is an easy/cheap upgrade that I highly recommend.

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-9936-ford-mini-pmgr-racing-starter-302-351-higher-torque-3205-sfd0001.aspx

I did this upgrade as well when I swapped out for the T5 at the suggestion of another member on here. Very easy to do and well worth it!

 

[tony-muscle]

Last night I was finalizing the installation of the rear disk brakes. These kit is from The Right Stuff. Even though I got their "staggered" shock kit, it is not needed. The non-stagger brake calipers fit perfectly since the shocks are on the inner side of the leaf springs. The staggered kit basically has you placing one caliper forward and another backwards. It's a long story, but I ended up purchasing a standard left side caliper so it can be facing backwards. This makes life a lot easier to route the brake line and e-brake cable. I was able to fit the stock e-brake cable with a few simple adaptations.

In any case, the calipers in the kit, I found out, are the 79 Cadillac ElDorado calipers. These are very popular for conversions since they have a manual e-brake lever that's easy to adapt. Once I installed the caliper I had a little bit of interference with the wheel. Actually, it will touch the wheel only where the welds of the rim overlap. I then ground some material off the caliper. I thought this was safe since there are no fluid channels on that side of the caliper and the amount of material was very little (see pictures for before and after). I was also able to move the caliper about 1/16" to the inside, which helps with clearance. So right now I have no interference. That brings me to my first question, does anyone knows what is an acceptable clearance between caliper and wheel?

My second question is about the proper engagement of the wheel nut. The discs are slightly wider than the drums so it reduces the amount of thread engagement. I read somewhere that proper engagement should be the diameter of the stud. The studs are 1/2-20. I now get 9+ turns of engagement, which is slightly below the 10 turns needed to have a 1/2" engagement. Do you think that 9+ turns is an acceptable amount of engagement?

 

[jbojo]

Sorry, I don't know the answer to your question but those brakes look really nice.

 

[DK73]

Wow that is so awesome stuff your getting on there[WINKING FACE][THUMBS UP SIGN] Regards Lars

Sendt fra min E2303 med Tapatalk

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

The general rule of thumb to have full strength of a thread engagement is 1 X dia. for steel, 1.5 X dia. for cast iron. You can get longer studs if you are not comfortable but sometimes difficult to find the right body dia. and knurl.

most lug nuts are over 1/2" in length so they must be about 1.5 engagement. I am sure they have some safety factor in there. Search the net there are lots of screw and bolt mfgs. out there that probably have free info.

Some wheels flex pretty good might need 1/4" clearance but cannot say for sure. Trial and error?

 

[tony-muscle]

Would it make sense to slightly grind the weld overlap on the wheel rim (see pic)? I am a little bit more hesitant on messing around with the wheel than with the caliper.

Once it's all said and done and test driven, I will add more details about the rear disc brake conversion I am doing.

 

[tony-muscle]

In regards to the caliper to wheel clearance I found that the Wilwood front brake disc kit I am installing specifies a minimum of 0.80". After moving the caliper as far as I could and grinding the edge I now have more than that so I hope to be in good shape. Granted those specs are for the front setup, but they should also be valid for the rear. I assume each wheel will flex differently. I will figure it out over time if I have some contact there, but hopefully not.

 

[tony-muscle]

The general rule of thumb to have full strength of a thread engagement is 1 X dia. for steel, 1.5 X dia. for cast iron. You can get longer studs if you are not comfortable but sometimes difficult to find the right body dia. and knurl.

most lug nuts are over 1/2" in length so they must be about 1.5 engagement. I am sure they have some safety factor in there. Search the net there are lots of screw and bolt mfgs. out there that probably have free info.

I am just below the one diameter engagement at ~0.46" so I should be good. I will check the tightness of the nuts more frequently to make sure they are not moving. From what I found, for a 1/2" stud it should be around 100 lb-ft.

 

[Colga2012]

I've done the tin man sub frame connectors, I think I got them from Jegs because they were a bit cheaper and free shipping than direct from Tin Man.. Go figure. I like them because they look semi stock with the square tubing.

I just put a set of tin man connectors on my 71. Found the curve on the left connector was a little too aggressive, spent two hours with a torch and 6 ft bars correcting the bend for a snug fit...

 

[tony-muscle]

I've done the tin man sub frame connectors, I think I got them from Jegs because they were a bit cheaper and free shipping than direct from Tin Man.. Go figure. I like them because they look semi stock with the square tubing.

I just put a set of tin man connectors on my 71. Found the curve on the left connector was a little too aggressive, spent two hours with a torch and 6 ft bars correcting the bend for a snug fit...

My right connector needed a bit of persuation but they both went in with mo bending

1971 M-code Mach 1

 

[tony-muscle]

Finally the Muscletang left the garage. I didn't go farther than my block, but I was able to move it a little to make sure all is in working order. The only problem I had was that because I had some taller pads in the lift, when I backed out the car, the lift got hook and was dragged back by the car. Since right now I am running an open exhaust I couldn't hear what was going on under the car. I am glad I was moving very slow and eventually stopped because it didn't feel right. No major damage done to the car, but the pump of the lift fell over and got a little damaged. The car was so loud that I did not hear the pump falling over.

I took the time to clean the 2-year dust on top and the paint looks shiny again. I dealt with a few brake fluid leaks over the weekend but all of them seem to be sort out by now. So there she is with complete new brakes at four corners, new master, new lines, all new steering components and most of the suspension components. Not to mention new floors, many new interior parts (carpet and seats are still not it), headers, etc.

I have to fine tune couple things before I take it to a shop on Wednesday where they will install a custom exhaust system and align the front end. I will baby it until then. Then I have to go through the brake bedding procedure before I can really test the brakes and handling. Once I test everything and make sure all works, I will write more details about all the mods.

 

[turtle5353]

Congrats!!! Looks great good job with all the projects and great write ups. I always look forward to your posts.

 

[jbojo]

Your car looks really good, congrats!!!

 

[tony-muscle]

Thank you, I forgot how beautiful it looks. It's incredible how much you focus on the engine bay and underneath that after some time the car becomes a bunch of metal, linkages, wires and hoses!

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Coming along nicely!

What are you going to run exhaust system wise (I know you said custom, but have you picked mufflers and pipe size yet?)

 

[tony-muscle]

I installed Hooker Comps. I will have a 2.5" system with an H cross-over connected to DynoMax Super Turbos. For loudness on demand I will install electric cutoffs from Badlanz following Kevin's recommendation. I hope this combination gives me a quiet ride in general but with a lot of noise when feel like it.

Right now I have a nearly stock engine. Eventually I will install EFI, and in 2 years I am planing to stroke it so that's why I decided to go with 2.5".

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

You'll get good noise with a 2.5 system, but if you run 3" just from the headers back to a pair of cut out pipes with a 2.5 system the rest of the way back, then when you open it up you can really turn the volume up to 11.

 

[basstrix]

The car looks awesome man!

 

[mach71351c]

Congrats on a job well done. Thanks for posting. It's been fun watching the progress.