NEED A FEW MEASUREMENTS PLEASE

[Qcode351mach]

Guy's if possible I need a few measurements inside the passenger door jamb to quarter panel body lines..A few different cars would be great. I had made a comment on a post that don't be afraid to some times cut out or redo previous work..well here's an example. When I had my friend here helping us on the rear of the car in his rush to get the right side quarter welded he never put the rubber bumpers on the door to check the fit of the door to the quarter..(this is why you use sheet metal screws first on a panel BEFORE you weld it & I asked him 3 times you sure it fits?) Guess it's my fault for not checking..So without the bumpers he lined up the door & the quarter & now with the rubber bumpers the quarter sits in a good 1/4" (He's a body guy with 20 years expirence?) I have the welds drilled out & know where the quarter needs to go..Just be nice to have a few measurements too. Just measure as per the pics it's the body lines from the door jamb to the quarter edge..Would be a good thing to wiki for anyone replacing a quarter...Thanks!

 

[Tnfastbk]

Going over to the car tonight. Will try to print this out and take it with me and get a few for you.

 

[URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK]

So scott... you need the 3 measurements you´re showing in the pics?? I´ll go over my garagge today too and measure them... i may take pics of what i´m measuring too just not to mess it up...

See you!!

 

[Qcode351mach]

So scott... you need the 3 measurements you´re showing in the pics?? I´ll go over my garagge today too and measure them... i may take pics of what i´m measuring too just not to mess it up...

See you!!

Thanks UF !

 

[FasTnNefariouS]

Hey Scott,

I got 3" for pic #1 .... 1 3/8" for pics #2. For pic #2, I put the tape measure flush against the flat part of the body and not near the curve to tip of body line and drew a line across to fill in the gap from panel to tape measure to get the 1 3/8 measurement. Pic #3 I got 1 15/16" and measured the same way as pic #2

Did the measurements on the passenger side of the 1972 and drivers side of the 1971 and got same measurements for pics 1 2 and 3.

are all tape measures alike? LOL! May need to send you my cheap ars tape measure if you want exact measurements, but hopefully this will help you get in the ball park and get the ole beast back on the road again.

 

[71_badmach]

Got roughly 1 3/8" for pics 2 and 3 above. Been awhile since I had the doors on, but I seem to remember them fitting OK.

 

[Tnfastbk]

Q, here is what I found on mine. They should enlarge ok

 

[URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK]

Hello Scott!!... Well... i did my homework and here are the results...

First of all... i´ll go with the upper measurement, i have the quarter window on so i choose to measure from the molding, through the screw hole, to the inner there.. you´ll see how i did that in the pic... That measurement is 98 milimiters (yes, i use metric system here, but i think is most acurate too)... In inches, it is 3,86"

The second measurement, the middle one is 33 milimiters, as 1,3" and in this one, i try to do the measure perfectly horizontal, paralell to the floor i can say...

The last measurement, the bottom one is the same, i did as paralell to the floor as i could and it was 50 milimiters, as 1,97"

Hope it helps Scott... here are the pics!

 

[Qcode351mach]

Tn & UF ....you guy's ROCK !!!! Thanks SO MUCH !!!

Scott

 

[URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK]

Tn & UF ....you guy's ROCK !!!! Thanks SO MUCH !!!

Scott

You´re welcome!! just hope it helps Man!!

We keep in touch!

 

[PAPPY HAROLD]

SCOTT: SOMETHING I RAN INTO AND I NOTICED ON YOUR #2 PIC THAT THE NYLON BUSHING ON YOUR DOOR POST STRICKER BOLT HAS HOLES IN IT. THAT LITTLE BIT WILL MAKE A HUGE DIFFERENCE IN WHERE THE DOOR SETS. IF YOUR MEASURMENTS CHECK OUT GO TO THAT BUSHING BEFORE PULLING HAIR OUT. GOOD LUCK

 

[Tnfastbk]

Tn & UF ....you guy's ROCK !!!! Thanks SO MUCH !!!

Scott

You´re welcome!! just hope it helps Man!!

We keep in touch!

X2 you are ::welcome::

 

[URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK]

SCOTT: SOMETHING I RAN INTO AND I NOTICED ON YOUR #2 PIC THAT THE NYLON BUSHING ON YOUR DOOR POST STRICKER BOLT HAS HOLES IN IT. THAT LITTLE BIT WILL MAKE A HUGE DIFFERENCE IN WHERE THE DOOR SETS. IF YOUR MEASURMENTS CHECK OUT GO TO THAT BUSHING BEFORE PULLING HAIR OUT. GOOD LUCK

I think his problem is the alignment due to the 2 rubber bumpers in that area... one is on the bottom part of the door and the other one is on the shell...

His measurements are different than mines but i don´t know if his problem is that the door is too deep or the other way... Something that happened to me was that with the original bumpers (my car still had the original ones) the door aligned perfect and the closing was soft and nice, but with the new one, the bottom part or the door didn´t close enough and the upper part was 1 milimiter deep... I decided to let it be that way and wait till the bumpers softs to see what happened...

The passenger side is better but the driver side still has that imperfection... I assumed the problem was the afermarket rubber bumpers that are too rigid, but we will see...

Scott.. if the measurements dont solve your problem please let us know, maybe we can help you in other way...

 

[Qcode351mach]

SCOTT: SOMETHING I RAN INTO AND I NOTICED ON YOUR #2 PIC THAT THE NYLON BUSHING ON YOUR DOOR POST STRICKER BOLT HAS HOLES IN IT. THAT LITTLE BIT WILL MAKE A HUGE DIFFERENCE IN WHERE THE DOOR SETS. IF YOUR MEASURMENTS CHECK OUT GO TO THAT BUSHING BEFORE PULLING HAIR OUT. GOOD LUCK

I think his problem is the alignment due to the 2 rubber bumpers in that area... one is on the bottom part of the door and the other one is on the shell...

His measurements are different than mines but i don´t know if his problem is that the door is too deep or the other way... Something that happened to me was that with the original bumpers (my car still had the original ones) the door aligned perfect and the closing was soft and nice, but with the new one, the bottom part or the door didn´t close enough and the upper part was 1 milimiter deep... I decided to let it be that way and wait till the bumpers softs to see what happened...

The passenger side is better but the driver side still has that imperfection... I assumed the problem was the afermarket rubber bumpers that are too rigid, but we will see...

Scott.. if the measurements dont solve your problem please let us know, maybe we can help you in other way...

Guy's..Thanks for the input I have the fit perfect..I just wanted the measurements to triple check & get a rough idea where it should be..The way the doors should fit is both bumpers should contact the door jamb.(rattle protection) So in order to make that happen it sometimes requires moving the door at the hinges..I always have aligned doors WITH OUT the striker..& then fit the striker to the latch You don't want the striker to get in the way of your alignment to the adjacent panel...I'm crazy with gaps & fit & finish..on panels..To me you can have the most awsome paint etc..but if the gaps & panels don't line up & aren't symetrical it kills the whole job. I see it all the time tons of money spent on paint etc. But the gaps & fit & finish aren't taken to the same level. Not to be critical (don't take it the wrong way) Look closley at the green boss that's being done by CJ's ...the rear bumper & front bumper are off (gaps not even, left side sitting low) ...the hood to fender gaps are ? as are the door to quarter fit (look at the door body line to quarter body line on the drivers side)..for a car to be taken to that level the fit & finish should be the same..(should have been done BEFORE paint) But who knows, maybe the owner didn't want to pay for the extra work to make it happen. Wait to you see my car, every panel will have a perfect 3/16" gap at every spot to the adjacent panel..you will be able to take a 3/16" spacer any where on the car & it will fit perfect! Every thing will line up perfect better than factory! I'm going to do a future video of how to make that happen.

 

[mach71351c]

SCOTT: SOMETHING I RAN INTO AND I NOTICED ON YOUR #2 PIC THAT THE NYLON BUSHING ON YOUR DOOR POST STRICKER BOLT HAS HOLES IN IT. THAT LITTLE BIT WILL MAKE A HUGE DIFFERENCE IN WHERE THE DOOR SETS. IF YOUR MEASURMENTS CHECK OUT GO TO THAT BUSHING BEFORE PULLING HAIR OUT. GOOD LUCK

I think his problem is the alignment due to the 2 rubber bumpers in that area... one is on the bottom part of the door and the other one is on the shell...

His measurements are different than mines but i don´t know if his problem is that the door is too deep or the other way... Something that happened to me was that with the original bumpers (my car still had the original ones) the door aligned perfect and the closing was soft and nice, but with the new one, the bottom part or the door didn´t close enough and the upper part was 1 milimiter deep... I decided to let it be that way and wait till the bumpers softs to see what happened...

The passenger side is better but the driver side still has that imperfection... I assumed the problem was the afermarket rubber bumpers that are too rigid, but we will see...

Scott.. if the measurements dont solve your problem please let us know, maybe we can help you in other way...

Guy's..Thanks for the input I have the fit perfect..I just wanted the measurements to triple check & get a rough idea where it should be..The way the doors should fit is both bumpers should contact the door jamb.(rattle protection) So in order to make that happen it sometimes requires moving the door at the hinges..I always have aligned doors WITH OUT the striker..& then fit the striker to the latch You don't want the striker to get in the way of your alignment to the adjacent panel...I'm crazy with gaps & fit & finish..on panels..To me you can have the most awsome paint etc..but if the gaps & panels don't line up & aren't symetrical it kills the whole job. I see it all the time tons of money spent on paint etc. But the gaps & fit & finish aren't taken to the same level. Not to be critical (don't take it the wrong way) Look closley at the green boss that's being done by CJ's ...the rear bumper & front bumper are off (gaps not even, left side sitting low) ...the hood to fender gaps are ? as are the door to quarter fit (look at the door body line to quarter body line on the drivers side)..for a car to be taken to that level the fit & finish should be the same..(should have been done BEFORE paint) But who knows, maybe the owner didn't want to pay for the extra work to make it happen. Wait to you see my car, every panel will have a perfect 3/16" gap at every spot to the adjacent panel..you will be able to take a 3/16" spacer any where on the car & it will fit perfect! Every thing will line up perfect better than factory! I'm going to do a future video of how to make that happen.

Scott these cars have nice body lines and its worth putting the effort in. Thats the difference's between a good paint job and great one. Your progress is inspiring. Mike

 

[URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK]

X2 on the inspiring thing... I just love to learn from people who makes great jobs, you are certainly one of that few guys who not only knows how to work but you´re intelligent to apply your knowledge... Anyway... you certainly establish an standard of what we all want to get when we are planning a body work... that´s important, in fact, if i known you from before, my 72 would be a better car today... My 70 is gonna take all my learnings from your work man!!!...

BTW... great progress in the car! i´ve seen the other post ... Question about that... why didn´t you take the upper cowl off to work in the lower part? is it too difficult to put it back correctly??.. i´m planning on taking the upper cowl on my 70, not only for rust repair behind but the cowl suffered in the accident and it has to be strignten... any tips besides the obvious???

Thanks Scott!!!

Damian

 

[Qcode351mach]

BTW... great progress in the car! i´ve seen the other post ... Question about that... why didn´t you take the upper cowl off to work in the lower part? is it too difficult to put it back correctly??.. i´m planning on taking the upper cowl on my 70, not only for rust repair behind but the cowl suffered in the accident and it has to be strignten... any tips besides the obvious???

Thanks Scott!!!

Damian

Thanks UF...I didn't remove the whole cowl because the center area was fine & It's alot more work for no reason..Plus why ruin the factory spot welded areas if it's not required. my advice is to do the striaghtening FIRST before removing the cowl..It's better to make any pulls etc with the part together if possible..in other words "rough it in first" then you can remove the top.

 

[URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK]

BTW... great progress in the car! i´ve seen the other post ... Question about that... why didn´t you take the upper cowl off to work in the lower part? is it too difficult to put it back correctly??.. i´m planning on taking the upper cowl on my 70, not only for rust repair behind but the cowl suffered in the accident and it has to be strignten... any tips besides the obvious???

Thanks Scott!!!

Damian

Thanks UF...I didn't remove the whole cowl because the center area was fine & It's alot more work for no reason..Plus why ruin the factory spot welded areas if it's not required. my advice is to do the striaghtening FIRST before removing the cowl..It's better to make any pulls etc with the part together if possible..in other words "rough it in first" then you can remove the top.

Found it! thanks Scott... i´ll follow your advice... If i can´t fix it propperly, then we take the upper part off...

I´ll let you informed on that progress too