Need Help With Gas Pedal Sticking

[icejawa]

Just an update:

the choke was closed when the engine was cold and was functioning well. I cleaned the carburetor out really well and then dumped a full can of seafoam down the choke barrel and the other barrels, the car now starts on 1st try and has the lovely gurgling noise when idle. I honestly didn't think the carb would be that dirty since I had cleaned it a month ago.

I probably still should tweak the choke adjustment a little still, I will check if the car idles high still next morning.

Thanks for all the advice and tips

 

[73pony]

You dumped an entire bottle of sea foam down the carb?? "Cleaned the carb out really well" ?? And it was cleaned a month ago? What carb are you running and how did you "clean" it? Sounds like you have something else going on here. Is/was there a lot of carbon build up inside the carb? Intake? Have you pulled and inspected the plugs? A properly tuned and set up carb on a good engine does not need "cleaned" even if the car is only driven occasionally.

 

[icejawa]

Yes there was alot of buildup, mostly near the choke and butterfly valve. I took the carb off and cleaned it with carb cleaner spray, rejetted it, and replaced metering rods and gaskets. Then after reinstalling it and tweaking it I gradually dumped a can of sea foam partially through each barrel of the carb over the course of 2 hours. The plugs were ruined with fuel, I replaced them after readjusting the choke. Choke is fully closed when the engine is cold and opens about 1/4th the way when the engine warms and settles to normal idle RPM. When I start it cold the RPM is around 3000-4000 and I have to bump the accelerator until it instantly lowers to 600 RPM.

I had cleaned the carb already at the beginning of Feb. and only driven the car around 1 time per week. I start it and back it out of the garage every other day.

My carb: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1406?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-edelbrock&gclid=CNWA5LL8w9ICFUpNfgodYwkK1w

carb kit used to rejet: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1487/overview/

 

[73pony]

By build up was carbon or a varnish type gunk? You should not be getting build up like that. What color were the plugs? Black?

 

[Bill73Ragtop]

"When I start it cold the RPM is around 3000-4000 and I have to bump the accelerator until it instantly lowers to 600 RPM."

Hoo Boy! Might want to back off that choke idle a bit....should be 1500 - 1800 at max. Find the setup instructions for your model carb and it will explain how this can be done. Your hot idle is just about right.

Not sure on the Edelbrock, but some of the Holley's I've had require removing (or lifting) the carb from the manifold in order to access the idle screw buried in the choke assembly

 

[Mister 4x4]

Nah, it's pretty much right there with the idle adjust.

I think the choke thermostat might need a little bit of adjustment as well - 1/4 open during idle seems a little closed off, IMHO, which could be contributing to the rich condition that's fouling the plugs.

Surely some of the other carb gurus will chime in soon. ::thumb::

 

[Mister 4x4]

Nah, it's pretty much right there with the idle adjust.

I think the choke thermostat might need a little bit of adjustment as well - 1/4 open during idle seems a little closed off, IMHO, which could be contributing to the rich condition that's fouling the plugs.

Surely some of the other carb gurus will chime in soon. ::thumb::

 

[icejawa]

The color of the gunk was gray, I could easily wipe it off with my finger. I am going to try adjusting the choke again to try to get a better idle, maybe my accelerator cable is too short? I can make the engine rev just by pulling on it

 

[73pony]

You should be able to rev the engine by either actuating the throttle linkage on the carb or by pulling on the accelerator cable (accomplishes the same thing).

As far as the "grey gunk" this could be a couple of things. Water/moisture in the gas & tank or if you are using ethanol laden fuel it will cause fuel systems components to break down, IE inside of tank, steel and rubber lines, etc. Or the inside of your tank may be starting to corrode due to moisture, ethanol, or sitting a long time with old gas.

 

[Don C]

Another possibility on the gunk is the crankcase isn't vented correctly and the fumes are being drawn into the carburetor and not directly into the manifold.

I agree with Eric, if the choke is just open 1/4 of the way when it is fully warmed up it needs adjusting.

 

[icejawa]

I use only premium gas, not sure if the station I go to uses ethanol. I'll try to see if I can get the choke adjusted enough, might also have to adjust the mixture screws

 

[Stanglover]

Not bothered to read all this, but here is a picture of my carb and linkage with an extra spring. It works for me without any issues. Hope you have it sorted, if not by now, soon.

BTW. mine is a manual trans, but I guess an auto would be similar. Also, before anyone points it out, the throttle cable attachment to bracket screw is out. I was fitting my home-brewed steel PVC tube around the back of the Holley.

 

[73pony]

Great reference photo! Also I will say again the PCV tube you made looks fantastic, like it would have come from the factory.

 

[Stanglover]

Great reference photo! Also I will say again the PCV tube you made looks fantastic, like it would have come from the factory.

 Thanks Jason. I hope the spring location solves the problem.

 Also I appreciate your comments on my PVC tube. The only issue I have found with it is getting the paint to stick to the coil wrap. I may rethink that part of it as the coil doesn't need to be there, it just came with the length of tube I bought and I thought it looked neat.

 

[icejawa]

The problem is sorted I had to adjust the choke. I am now having a problem where the manual transmission will not shift to Reverse. When I try to shift the lever into reverse it pops out and i can swing it freely. I can pop it back in and shift to 1,2,3,4 and Neutral without a problem.