Oil pressure sending unit

[PeteG41]

Never used seafoam and never will, along with any other “miracle” products. Having the original spare drivetrain in storage is my AAA insurance policy!

Easy enough! I never have either, but will definitely stop and grab some carb cleaner and just let her rip. I was hoping since she smoothed out on the idle it was a fuel issue. Hopefully just gummed up from sitting for a while

 

[PeteG41]

Definitely a "little jumpy". I'm far from being an expert, but that seems almost like it's running on less than 8 cylinders or the firing order is off. At that rate it'll bust the mounts I'm thinking. I would be concerned if it doesn't settle down with a good carb cleaning. One step at a time though.

alright sprayed out the air bleeds, or at least attempted to. The throttle plates looked a little cruddy as well. She definitely didn’t like starting after some shots of that carb cleaner in there but eventually turned over. My idle came down, and isn’t as jumpy but it seems to hang a little. She didn’t smoke before so I am thinking I just loosened up a ton of crud with that cleaner and it’s getting burned off. Thinking a carb rebuild is probably the best thing to do.

 

[Stanglover]

alright sprayed out the air bleeds, or at least attempted to. The throttle plates looked a little cruddy as well. She definitely didn’t like starting after some shots of that carb cleaner in there but eventually turned over. My idle came down, and isn’t as jumpy but it seems to hang a little. She didn’t smoke before so I am thinking I just loosened up a ton of crud with that cleaner and it’s getting burned off. Thinking a carb rebuild is probably the best thing to do.

That's waaay better. It certainly looks like it needs a good cleaning and de-crudding.
Warm the motor up to around 180, then give it another shot with the carb cleaner. A carb rebuild would not likely not go amiss, but if you're like me, I can do only so much, then it's time for the pros.

 

[PeteG41]

That's waaay better. It certainly looks like it needs a good cleaning and de-crudding.
Warm the motor up to around 180, then give it another shot with the carb cleaner. A carb rebuild would not likely not go amiss, but if you're like me, I can do only so much, then it's time for the pros.

Smoking like a chimney now but at least I’m not worried about breaking motor mounts. As far as a rebuild, it’s definitely above my pay grade as of now. My pops is going to be coming here to Az in the next few weeks and is going to help me. I bet I could stumble through it with the kit, YouTube, and a few hours, but that’s just over confidence. Warm it up, shut it off, give it a few good cleaner shots, then fire her back up to burn it off?

 

[Sheriff41]

These 2-bbl carbs are easy to rebuild so get a kit, a can of carburetor cleaner to soak the parts, and follow the instructions in the kit. If you don't have an air compressor get some cans of compressed air at Walmart (in the computer supplies section) to blow out the passages after you soak and rinse the carb. You can do this!

 

[PeteG41]

These 2-bbl carbs are easy to rebuild so get a kit, a can of carburetor cleaner to soak the parts, and follow the instructions in the kit. If you don't have an air compressor get some cans of compressed air at Walmart (in the computer supplies section) to blow out the passages after you soak and rinse the carb. You can do this!

Heck ya!! I think I can get it figured out. Not like she was going to be taken on any test drives relatively soon. I was going to go out and give it another soak of carb cleaner, but since it’s coming off anyways I might as well save the rest of the can.

 

[Sheriff41]

Heck ya!! I think I can get it figured out. Not like she was going to be taken on any test drives relatively soon. I was going to go out and give it another soak of carb cleaner, but since it’s coming off anyways I might as well save the rest of the can.

You'll want to pick up a 1 gallon can of carb cleaner to immerse the parts. This will have a basket in it for the small parts. Let them soak for 30-60 minutes. Use some mechanic's rubber gloves. You'll be able to use this stuff for cleaning other parts, too.

 

[PeteG41]

You'll want to pick up a 1 gallon can of carb cleaner to immerse the parts. Let them soak for 30-60 minutes.
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Alright cool. I’ve heard mixed opinions on wire brushes, so I’ve got an old golf club toothbrush that I’ll use to give everything a good scrub. It’s definitely promising the idle got noticeably better so I’ll take that as a big W for the day. The dead cylinder/valve theories were a bitter pill to swallow but I wasn’t disagreeing with them.

 

[c9zx]

I suggest running a small wire through every hole on the carb, a shot of carb cleaner and repeat. Pay special attention to air bleeds, emulsion tube passages , and venturi booster discharge passages. I hope all goes well. Be careful withe the Berryman's,

 

[PeteG41]

I suggest running a small wire through every hole on the carb, a shot of carb cleaner and repeat. Pay special attention to air bleeds, emulsion tube passages , and venturi booster discharge passages. I hope all goes well. Be careful withe the Berryman's,

While I still have it on the car, or do you mean when I take it off to clean/rebuild? I didn’t run any berrymans through it, just shot carb cleaner on the air bleeds, walls, and the top of the throttle plate. Hoping all the at smoke is from build up burning off, didn’t smoke at all before.

 

[Sheriff41]

Yeah, I only use a brush on the outside of the carb on really stubborn dirt. The immersion will get into the passages inside the carb. After soaking you rinse it real well with water then use the compressed air to dry the carb housing and blow water out of the passages. Get a welding tip cleaner. It will have the wire sizes to clean any stubborn stuff clogging the passages, as Chuck recommended.

 

[c9zx]

While I still have it on the car, or do you mean when I take it off to clean/rebuild? I didn’t run any berrymans through it, just shot carb cleaner on the air bleeds, walls, and the top of the throttle plate. Hoping all the at smoke is from build up burning off, didn’t smoke at all before.

Off the car and disassembled. Do not get any plastic or rubber pieces in the Berryman's. Also Berryman's is caustic, gloves, long sleeves, and eye protection are a must. Don't leave parts in it longer than needed. After the carb is working properly a quality engine flush may quiet the lifters/valve train, follow the directions precisely. I've quieted many engine using an engine flush PROPERLY. If you want to clean out the ring lands allowing the rings to move properly and seal better run a good synthetic in it for a few thousand miles. Be aware, if the only thing preventing oil leaks is gunk build up, you may have oil leaks later. Someone mentioned Sea Foam earlier. It is not a miracle treatment. It is a good fuel stabilizer. I have a dozen small engine powered tools and it works better for me than Sta-Bil. That is just my experience over the last 25 years. Good Luck. Chuck

 

[DAverkamp]

Alright cool. I’ve heard mixed opinions on wire brushes, so I’ve got an old golf club toothbrush that I’ll use to give everything a good scrub. It’s definitely promising the idle got noticeably better so I’ll take that as a big W for the day. The dead cylinder/valve theories were a bitter pill to swallow but I wasn’t disagreeing with them.

Did you acquire a temp gun to check all 8 exhaust ports? 2v carbs are not expensive to turn in the core and get a “ready to run” carb (when you give them your location (sea level for jetting) and your drivetrain set up.

Rock on with learning on your own first but if it turns into a PITA then maybe my suggestion is your “plan B”..

 

[71ProjectJunk]

That engine is not looking too happy at idle. Looks like it's not running on all 8 cylinders or like it has a massive vacuum leak. Check the EGR valve, it may be stuck open... Adjust the idle mixture screws, it also looks like when one idle mixture screw is all closed up.

 

[71ProjectJunk]

Just saw the second video, looks much better on the 2nd one.

 

[mrgmhale]

Smoking like a chimney now but at least I’m not worried about breaking motor mounts. As far as a rebuild, it’s definitely above my pay grade as of now. My pops is going to be coming here to Az in the next few weeks and is going to help me. I bet I could stumble through it with the kit, YouTube, and a few hours, but that’s just over confidence. Warm it up, shut it off, give it a few good cleaner shots, then fire her back up to burn it off?

I wish I knew what color smoke. If it is black you are running too rich. It is possible you have a ruptured or leaking power valve, which will allow the intake manifold vacuum to suck as much liquid fuel out of the fuel bowl as fast as it can. If you rebuild the carb a new power valve is in the kit.
Other thing can cause a rich mixture also. But I suspect your power valve is causing your grief.

 

[Stanglover]

Someone mentioned Sea Foam earlier. It is not a miracle treatment. It is a good fuel stabilizer. I have a dozen small engine powered tools and it works better for me than Sta-Bil. That is just my experience over the last 25 years. Good Luck. Chuck

Chuck, as that was me that mentioned "Sea Foam" I'll comment on your post. I agree, it is not a miracle treatment, I don't believe any "quick fix" treatments are. Personally I only use it as a carb and gas treatment and I too have found it works better than Sta-Bil.
You've read my post about occasional smoke on start up, I thought about adding the correct quantity to my oil to free a possible sticking oil ring, but I don't like adding any additives that might come back and bite me. The only additive I do use is ZDDP.

 

[Stanglover]

You'll want to pick up a 1 gallon can of carb cleaner to immerse the parts. This will have a basket in it for the small parts. Let them soak for 30-60 minutes. Use some mechanic's rubber gloves. You'll be able to use this stuff for cleaning other parts, too.
View attachment 64058

I wish I could get this in my part of Canada, but for sure that will be a "banned substance". Waaaay to dangerous for us Canucks to play with........ someone might get hurt............ or the pollution from it might affect the whole world!!
Heck, we can't even get good weed killer anymore.
If you think I'm kidding, I'm not.

 

[will e]

I just now watched the video.
Next thing to do is a compression test. I wouldn't bother with anything else until I completed one. Write the numbers down and post them up for us.

 

[PeteG41]

Did you acquire a temp gun to check all 8 exhaust ports? 2v carbs are not expensive to turn in the core and get a “ready to run” carb (when you give them your location (sea level for jetting) and your drivetrain set up.

Rock on with learning on your own first but if it turns into a PITA then maybe my suggestion is your “plan B”..

I haven't gotten a temp gun yet. Yeah I was looking at oriellys, new carb is about $240 plus the core. Not ideal but it would be more of a plug and play as opposed to rebuilding.