Plastic Pieces - Honeycomb grille, panel, fan shroud, etc.

[ITMike5.0]

Obviously there are some reproduction parts made so you can pretty much replace anything.  For example I can buy a "new" fan shroud, "new" front grille and also the rear honeycomb panel.  I know sometimes there can be fitment issues with these new parts so what does everybody think is the better option?  Do I buy whatever original parts I can find on Ebay rather than these reproduction parts?  Obviously those parts will look brand new and the original parts will need to be cleaned and most likely won't look as clean ever.  

Also do you just clean your original parts or is it also acceptable to paint them?  if so what paint is best to use that will adhere and last a long time?

 

[Hemikiller]

I'd opt for the repop grill. Mine is a Carpenter unit and still looks great after 10 years.

The stuff under the hood you can clean and repaint. I have used Krylon satin black for lots of underhood items and it lasts reasonably well.

 

[libram]

if its metal and not rusted or pitted or anodized or chromed clean and paint, plastic can generally be replaced however check first because some parts cant, like the kick panels if you don't have speakers in them. Trim is your biggest issue, if at all possible keep your anodized trim, stip it, fix it, sand it, buff it, clear it, polish it, do what you have got to do to keep it if at all possible, repop isn't as good on those. Regardless if you wanna replace it, get the repop first, test it, and if you don't like it return it and go with your own stuff or OE.

 

[NG8264723]

Some trim is good. The windhield molding and the drip rails is fine

 

[libram]

Some trim is good.  The windhield molding and the drip rails is fine

I'm reserving judgement on the windshield molding, its corvex same as the back. drip I'll give you but we all know the trials of drip rail channel.

 

[Stanglover]

Also do you just clean your original parts or is it also acceptable to paint them?  if so what paint is best to use that will adhere and last a long time?

 Just from experience, I have used SEM Trim Black for years on plastic parts when I worked in the automotive industry. As long as the substrate is squeaky clean and solid, used a plastic primer if needed, but may not be necessary when used as directed, you should end up with a very acceptable finish that will last a looooong time. SEM also makes color trim paints, but you might have to go to a good supplier to get the best selection. Trim Black will also work on metal and after its cure time, 48 hours, you will have a factory looking part.

For under hood, I used Eastwood 2K Ceramic Under Hood Black. It does have a bit of texture, but I don't mind it at all as it cleans up great and continues to look good after a couple of years now. I have in the past, done a post on restoring my engine bay. Try a search for it as I have no idea how to link it!!! I'll look for it and add it to this later. Stay tuned!

I found that post. Look for * Engine Bay Detailing - 71 Mach 1* dated 10/02/16 to 11/08/16. You may find it useful........... or not.

Geoff.

 

[OMS]

Obviously there are some reproduction parts made so you can pretty much replace anything.  For example I can buy a "new" fan shroud, "new" front grille and also the rear honeycomb panel.  I know sometimes there can be fitment issues with these new parts so what does everybody think is the better option?  Do I buy whatever original parts I can find on Ebay rather than these reproduction parts?  Obviously those parts will look brand new and the original parts will need to be cleaned and most likely won't look as clean ever.  

Also do you just clean your original parts or is it also acceptable to paint them?  if so what paint is best to use that will adhere and last a long time?

Is your stuff just needing freshened up or are there any cracks in it

It also depends on the piece

As far as adhesion on plastic [ or anything ] CLEANLINESS AND PROPER PERPETRATION IS THE MAIN THING

Honeycomb is a pain to get clean enough to paint - New one fits fine and is reasonably priced

Grille it too is a pain to prep for paint but while a new one is very nice they are expensive

I have the Carpenter grilles - they are still good but 10 years ago the plastic was molded here, now the mold is in China

and the trim is installed here

Fan shroud pretty easy to clean up and re-spray plus you get to keep your ford logo and part numbers

 

[ITMike5.0]

Also do you just clean your original parts or is it also acceptable to paint them?  if so what paint is best to use that will adhere and last a long time?

 Just from experience, I have used SEM Trim Black for years on plastic parts when I worked in the automotive industry. As long as the substrate is squeaky clean and solid, used a plastic primer if needed, but may not be necessary when used as directed, you should end up with a very acceptable finish that will last a looooong time. SEM also makes color trim paints, but you might have to go to a good supplier to get the best selection. Trim Black will also work on metal and after its cure time, 48 hours, you will have a factory looking part.

For under hood, I used Eastwood 2K Ceramic Under Hood Black. It does have a bit of texture, but I don't mind it at all as it cleans up great and continues to look good after a couple of years now. I have in the past, done a post on restoring my engine bay. Try a search for it as I have no idea how to link it!!! I'll look for it and add it to this later. Stay tuned!

I found that post. Look for * Engine Bay Detailing - 71 Mach 1* dated 10/02/16 to 11/08/16. You may find it useful........... or not.

Geoff.

Very nice!  I will definitely refer to that thread.  I'm sure it will be very useful to me.  Thanks!

 

[Stanglover]

Also do you just clean your original parts or is it also acceptable to paint them?  if so what paint is best to use that will adhere and last a long time?

 Just from experience, I have used SEM Trim Black for years on plastic parts when I worked in the automotive industry. As long as the substrate is squeaky clean and solid, used a plastic primer if needed, but may not be necessary when used as directed, you should end up with a very acceptable finish that will last a looooong time. SEM also makes color trim paints, but you might have to go to a good supplier to get the best selection. Trim Black will also work on metal and after its cure time, 48 hours, you will have a factory looking part.

For under hood, I used Eastwood 2K Ceramic Under Hood Black. It does have a bit of texture, but I don't mind it at all as it cleans up great and continues to look good after a couple of years now. I have in the past, done a post on restoring my engine bay. Try a search for it as I have no idea how to link it!!! I'll look for it and add it to this later. Stay tuned!

I found that post. Look for * Engine Bay Detailing - 71 Mach 1* dated 10/02/16 to 11/08/16. You may find it useful........... or not.

Geoff.

Very nice!  I will definitely refer to that thread.  I'm sure it will be very useful to me.  Thanks!

  I have always found SEM product good. You may also consider Eastwood products as well. I use both with confidence. When it comes to engine bay detailing, it is often personal choice. I prefer the original "look", but not necessarily concours as most observers don't know the difference anyway. There is a new post on slop grey for parts of the bay. This is also a personal choice thing as apparently, it was a mix of whatever paint was left over to produce a "grey" color that varied form batch to batch. I used the NPD version and I like that look. Apparently, this is hard to get right now, but any auto paint supplier can mix something suitable in a spray can, but you don't want "Battleship Grey" either. Here's my front end close-up. You can see the slop grey parts, hood latch brackets, light bucket supports, shock tower braces and not seen are the spring cover plates under the fenders.

 

[ITMike5.0]

Is that your original front grille or did you replace it?  If original...was it just in really good shape or did you clean/paint it?  It doesn't appear to be painted.

 

[Stanglover]

Is that your original front grille or did you replace it?  If original...was it just in really good shape or did you clean/paint it?  It doesn't appear to be painted.

Yes it is the original. All of my car was in amazing condition. I did clean it and that's all. The parts I did paint, I used either SEM Trim Black or Eastwood underhood semi-gloss black depending on what it needed. Is it totally correct, hell no, but it wins trophy's so I'm more than happy with the way it turned out, easy to redo if I have to as well.

Hope that helps you,

Geoff.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

One the honeycomb & Grills I have blasted with walnut shells and it takes the sort of dead layer off but does not eat the parts up. Clean Clean Clean with dish washing liquid also. Of course you turn back pressure every blaster has different size nozzle due to wear so cannot give you a stetting.

For the parts like shroud and the inner fender splash guards I wash with dish washing and brush, then wash with lacquer thinner to get road tar off, then wash with dish washing liquid again. Then wash with prep solve and spray with satin clear. It lets the variations of the fibers still show. the same for your heater box to make them look like new. Pic is inner fender parts I did when I detailed that car.

Some parts look more natural and original with a satin clear than with a black.

And yes the yellow paint under the fender is original this car has not been painted. I did peel off the sealer that was cracked and resealed and put some POR on to keep from rusting. Car is 48,000 mile California car.

D

 

[ITMike5.0]

Awesome, thanks for the info everyone. My front grille does have a few cracks where the honeycomb pieces meet up with each other but it can probably be fixed with some good adhesive. I'll probably try to fix the cracks first and then clean and then maybe paint depending on how well it cleans up.

My fan shroud was cracked so I was able to find and order one on Ebay that was original and same part number. I'm sure that will need to be cleaned up too. My car also did not have the taillight honeycomb panel so I wasn't sure if it'd be best to find an original and clean it up or just buy a repo part. Also missing the front spoiler...

 

[Stanglover]

Awesome, thanks for the info everyone.  My front grille does have a few cracks where the honeycomb pieces meet up with each other but it can probably be fixed with some good adhesive.  I'll probably try to fix the cracks first and then clean and then maybe paint depending on how well it cleans up.

My fan shroud was cracked so I was able to find and order one on Ebay that was original and same part number.  I'm sure that will need to be cleaned up too.  My car also did not have the taillight honeycomb panel so I wasn't sure if it'd be best to find an original and clean it up or just buy a repo part.  Also missing the front spoiler...

 I may be able to offer a repair product solution I found recently. Awhile back, I posted on repairing my fan shroud that was cracked. I had tried a high strength plastic glue, JB Weld Plastic Bonder, that worked well for some time until I stuck my hand on it and cracked it again. I found a product called BONDIC, a liquid plastic that is UV activated with the special light supplied. The trick is as always, 'squeaky clean' and follow instructions. Once cured, it is quite easily sanded and painted. The repair I did is holding up very well so far.... as long as I keep my big mitt off it!! I have used it for several "fixes" including the handle on our veggy steamer that fell off. It does not do well on Vinyl based plastics though. Worth a try, it blew me away how well it worked.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

The grill is ABS plastic so the glue you get for the black sewer pipe at your home supply will work great. It actually melts the plastic a bit. As stated clean clean clean. The glue is also black and you do not need to gob it on just in the crack.