possible 1971 mach 1 purchase

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The last 2 you listed look like good candidates, at least you could drive them while you work on them to help keep the motivation up.

 
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Ok. So info on the silver one. No wheels, engine seems good. Front floors need replaced. Vin is1F02M16 so I know it's not a true mach 1. I'm not sure it's worth what he's asking.... but is it worth even making an offer?

 
Ok. So info on the silver one. No wheels, engine seems good. Front floors need replaced. Vin is1F02M16 so I know it's not a true mach 1. I'm not sure it's worth what he's asking.... but is it worth even making an offer?
Not a Mach but not sure how many M code , four speed Sportsroofs were made. Is it matching numbers car? Could be a cool car if you can get it for the right price.

 
If your willing to go to Omaha, how about Topeka? This looks interesting:

http://lawrence.craigslist.org/cto/5971273589.html

Looks like it still has the lower molding between the green and black.

personally, I am not sure if I trust cars that have had lots of panel replacement unless it was done by a shop with a good reputation. I see lots of ads for cars with fender aprons, floors and trunks cut out "ready for restoration', but no provisions made for keeping the rest of the body straight and aligned.

 
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The seller might have the old wheels to swap back on - a question to ask.

If not, check local CL or classifieds for some 14"-15" wheels with 5 on 4.5 lug pattern, and toss on some cheap tires so you'll have a roller (sometimes you might even find some later-model Mustang wheels/tires people have pulled off their cars for flashier rims. When you get close to the finished look, then spring for the cool wheels you're after - that way they won't get dirty, scuffed, painted, or otherwise during the rebuild process.

Be advised that the passenger side rear quarter skin has been replaced - which is why there's a funny gap issue toward the top of the door - ask me how I know. ;)

Looks like a good place to start - and agree that $5000-5500 would be a fair offer. I'd get a scope and look into the cowl and rear quarters to see what they might've missed when they were 'patching.'

 
If your willing to go to Omaha, how about Topeka? This looks interesting:

http://lawrence.craigslist.org/cto/5971273589.html
I'd put money down on a seized engine. That 'perfect' back seat will crack the first time someone squishes it. A no-stripe, low-optioned, non ram air car... probably a 302. Ask if the front valance is anywhere to be found (probably munched) to get the last 2 pieces of the rocker trim. Might not be a bad deal if the rust isn't too bad. He says "need gone," and it doesn't run... so I'd offer up $3K.

 
I don't usually worry about the 'perfect' back seat, but I keep forgetting other people have kids! No one I know will ever be back there.

If there isn't much rust, $3k might not be a bad deal. It costs a lot of money to fix some peoples repairs. Its hard to say about Kansas. It is rust belt-ish, but lots of barns and buildings to store things inside for 10 or 20 years.

 
Lol.. I have three young boys that can't wait to find daddy a car.. so the back seat will be used.. I'll probably be the one left home. I think I'm going to offer 5k for the one in omaha.. if he doesn't bite at that, I'll try the others

 
Lol.. I have three young boys that can't wait to find daddy a car.. so the back seat will be used.. I'll probably be the one left home. I think I'm going to offer 5k for the one in omaha.. if he doesn't bite at that, I'll try the others
Yes on the Omaha car. 5k would be a fair price. I would leave the wheels out of the deal. Let the husband and the boys pick out the wheels. Wheels are kinda of a big deal for us boys! :D

 
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