Rebuilding the 351C again

[rentascout]

Okay as most of you have seen me crying on here about burning three lobes on my cam, because I did not run break in oil, which I have built 100s of motors without it but hey I guess.

So my cord is short and I know I can build a motor but I truly think this big old army boy is scared to build this motor again. It had less time it takes to play a foot ball game on it so I ****** it back out and I should be getting it back soon. All the bearings looked really good, cylinders also were in good condition, but man I am going to double guess my self so much and I know what that leads to.

So let me have it guys, if there are tricks to that motor please share, I already got another tappet and a complete new set of lifters, rockers(everything), rods. The heads, crank, block, and pistons are at the machine shop getting cleaned.

APPLICATION CAMSHAFTS VALVE SETTING RPM

OPERATING

RANGE CAMSHAFT PART NUMBER CAM GRIND NUMBER DURATION VALVE LIFT @ 1.73:1 LOBE SEP. ANGLE


ADV. @ .050”


IN. EX. IN. EX. IN. EX. IN. EX.


Hyd. Hyd. 1500-5500 32-221-3 268H 268 268 218 218 .494 .494 110°

I also have a case of comp cam break in oil, and have heard so many different adjustments I should be using on my rockers which are all new and stock so I should not have a 1.73 correct. See all this small stuff has me second guess what is right. I did the right thing and pulled it out so let me hear from you again the engine is the 351C2V, but will be running a 4bbl 600 cfm.

any good high volume oil pumps you choose

 

[droptop73]

The oil used and the failure you had are absolutely not reflective of how the engine was assembled. You learned a lesson many others have learned about using "modern" oils. You won't make that mistake again. As for an oil pump I prefer the standard pressure/volume Melling pumps. The failure you had was not related to a lack of lubrication.

Keep your head up and forget about "yesterday"!!

 

[Mister 4x4]

Yes - what he said. ^^^^^^ ::thumb::

 

[turtle5353]

Good to hear your giving it another go and going the extra mile to clean the entire motor. I personally never run a HV oil pump, stick with a good quality standard pump as mentioned above. buy some good break in oil made specifically for older motors and use the additive. I double cover myself like that just to be certain not to have happen what unfortunately happened to your 1st cam. Its expensive for the oil but less than a new cam. After break in I have had good luck running the Rotella 10w-40 for diesel engines. When you break it in get it fired up, and get the timing set, turn the throttle idle screw up and keep your rpms above 1500 or so. Vary the throttle rpm but don't let it go below 1500 rpm for atleast the first 20 min and you should be fine. Good Luck and great job on seeing this through!!! let us know how it goes!

 

[73vertproject]

Hey Russ -

Keep your chin up. Turtle's suggested breakin procedure is perfect.

Are you having the shop do the short block or long block? I'd suggest pay a few dollars more and have them do the long block, so all you have to do is drop it in and fire it up (more or less )

 

[rentascout]

Well I did get the good break in oil this time, and will run it for time needed to break in.

 

[TommyK]

IMO after you change the break in oil you still need to run an oil for everyday use that has at least 1200 ppm of zddp such as the Rotella as was previously suggested.

Best of luck.

 

[mdan575]

Rollerize that motor damn it and fix the problem.

 

[rentascout]

OKay so the cam finally arrived to day and of course the rods they sent me are for a 351M and have another inch on them, go figure.

The only thing I am waiting on is gaskets which are ordered and I will go with a factory pump, I keep going overboard to ensure I keep the correct lube on objects.

No roller for me this is a normal driver and to speed the money and not see a difference is not my ball park.

Hey Russ -

Keep your chin up. Turtle's suggested breakin procedure is perfect.

Are you having the shop do the short block or long block? I'd suggest pay a few dollars more and have them do the long block, so all you have to do is drop it in and fire it up (more or less )

Yeah the prices they charge to put them together is above rapping. I have all gear to build but have to remove my head from my A$$ to ensure proper fit. I cannot blame anyone but myself and eat the cost, but hell they could fail something just as well and only a few carry any type of warranty, straight hot garbage.

 

[73vertproject]

OK. Keep us posted on the rebuild.

 

[rentascout]

[align=justify]

OK. Keep us posted on the rebuild.

I will do should hear back in the am from machine shop about pickup date, and the push rods were mailed back today, hopefully I will see them in a week or so[/align]

 

[73vertproject]

[align=justify]

OK. Keep us posted on the rebuild.

I will do should hear back in the am from machine shop about pickup date, and the push rods were mailed back today, hopefully I will see them in a week or so[/align]

Good to hear, Russ! Thanks for the update, and remember to snap a pic of the engine when you get it back from the shop so we can see what you got.

 

[rentascout]

[align=justify]

OK. Keep us posted on the rebuild.

I will do should hear back in the am from machine shop about pickup date, and the push rods were mailed back today, hopefully I will see them in a week or so[/align]

Good to hear, Russ! Thanks for the update, and remember to snap a pic of the engine when you get it back from the shop so we can see what you got.

So I got it back and put everything on but rockers since I am still waiting on the correct rods.

I am not sure using the standard pushrods is going to be a good idea. I have not heard or found anything that helps me choose the best course but I know I am too close to let a 60 dollar set of rods or improper length mess this up again.

Since I HAVE A NON ADJUSTABLE I SHOUL DBE ABLE TO SET IT ON AND TORUGUE DOWN, CORRECT.


I also wanted to make sure I did not need to set lifter pre load, I am getting to the point where Failure is only a turn away so I don't care if it is a dumb question, which do exist, I just want to be right

 

[wwhite72]

#1 standard Ford pump, or a Melling standard rate is fine. #2 standard Ford pump shaft or ARP is the only way to go. #3 breakin oil is mandatory, then use Valvoline VR1.#4 purilator oil filter. I went the extra mile and put the big magnet on the filter to catch shavings. And replace that filter after breakin. Just do it. Oil and filters are relatively cheap, right? #4 you primed the pump before startup right? #5 some lifters say soak in oil for a long while, some say DIP in oil. Do what the mfg says! Crane Hyd rollers do not soak over night. They are dipped for a couple mins max. Non rollers are usually left in oil longer before install. #6 valve train can use a liberal dousing of oil before initial start. Best of luck.


Lifter preload is specified by the lifter manufacturer and varies.

 

[mustang7173]

rentascout,

According to the competition Cam site for you Cam Kit,

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=CC&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=7832-16

High Energy Pushrods™: 5/16" Diameter, 8.412" Length

I would say that a good quality push rod with the specs above will work just fine. These are only $29.00.

The rocker arm in the picture, who was the manufacture? Make sure the fulcrums are NOT aluminum. Some of the early 351C's had sub par rocker fulcrums. The 4Vs came with a sintered metallic type material that was much better.

mustang7173

 

[rentascout]

rentascout,

According to the competition Cam site for you Cam Kit,

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=CC&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=7832-16

High Energy Pushrods™: 5/16" Diameter, 8.412" Length

I would say that a good quality push rod with the specs above will work just fine. These are only $29.00.

The rocker arm in the picture, who was the manufacture? Make sure the fulcrums are NOT aluminum. Some of the early 351C's had sub par rocker fulcrums. The 4Vs came with a sintered metallic type material that was much better.

mustang7173

Well for once my numbers matched someone else's. I just got them in today finally and went to put them on and go figure one of the brand new rockers does not have a oil hole in it. What a trip this has been

 

[rentascout]

I would like to say that I put it back together ran the oil for the time and of course no issues. So I will get the hood put back on her this weekend and a for sale sign short to follow. I have a total of 11,382.92 dollars and very glad I take a slight chance of breaking even. All in all not a bad car

 

[turtle5353]

So you got it up and running??? GREAT JOB!!! Once you get the hood on and take it for a couple rides that for sale sign may just disappear!

 

[rentascout]

So you got it up and running??? GREAT JOB!!! Once you get the hood on and take it for a couple rides that for sale sign may just disappear!

Brother I thought it would but took it out twice to make sure it was ready for sunday, I have a couple guys coming over to look at it. Just trying to make sure all the small crap is taken care of. I noticed that my speedo was not working which bothers me but sure it is something small. I know it seems dumb to walk away but I am sure the next guy will enjoy it way more than I will ever. Today is the longest I have ever drove it. 2.3 miles in 9 years, not to shabby, lol.